Hi: I have an Sony H9 and I just purchased a wide angle lens ... how do I get rid of the dark rounded corners without cropping the picture? What setting should I use? Thank-you in advance for your advice.

"Best" lens depends on several things:

1. What kind of pictures do you intend to take?
2. Do you mind a heavy leans? Some are 10 pounds or more.
3. Your budget.

The "standard kit lens" that most come with is perfectly good for general photography. If you want to take architectural pictures, you'll need something different. If you want wide landscapes, you will need a wide angle, and if you want wildlife/bird pictures, you'll want a telephoto lens. It all really depends on what you intend to do...

For example, I have a very wide lens I use for interior architectural pictures, medium telephoto for portraits, and a variety of long to very long telephotos for wildlife pictures...

Yes, there are some extreme zoom lenses that cover 'normal" to "very long" telephoto. They're expensive, not especially sharp, and very heavy. Everything is a compromise.

Common problem and yes no to user error. You didn't say what lens you were using but I'm going to guess it's an 18mm on the wide end AND maybe you have a UV filter on it to protect the front lens element. What you are experiencing is what is called vignette. I hope my spelling was correct. What causes this is the extreme wide angle view of the lens, actually capable of seeing the edge of the lens barrel, there is another little problem that messes with your brain, you can't see this happening until after the picture is on the computer or you have enlarged it on the camera view screen and then zoomed in on the corner(s). The reason behind this is what you see in the viewfinder is only about 94% of the total image you will get on the view screen (LCD) or see on the computer monitor. So what can you do about this? There are a few things some you won't like. While taking a full wide angle shot remove the protective or polarization filter and shoot a "Naked" lens (correct for contrast in post processing) Stop the lens down to say F8 or F11 which will use more of the center of the lens but still give you the wide angle however you don't get something for nothing. You will most likely trade off shutter speed and need to use a tripod. Make sure if you are using a VR type lens that you shut the "Vibration Reduction" off when the camera is mounted to a tripod or you'll have some more issues. What I do at the 18mm end is shoot it without a filter at F8 or F11 and in post processing crop out the corners by enlarging the photo/print slightly. I call this shooting loose relying on the 6% I don't see in the viewfinder and shoot the scene knowing I'm going to "zoom crop" in Photoshop. Hope this was a help Happy New Year

Yes, you should be able to use them. Be aware, moving to digital there is a 1.6 crop factor. The means your 100 mm lens will have the field of view (FOV) of a 160 mm. No, it does not mean it is a 160 mm it is the fFOV is the same as a 160 mm. Also, at the other end is were you will most want to purchase a wide angle lens.
Example: your 28 mm film lens now has the FOV of 44.8, not wide angle. As you can see wide angle is where the move to digital crop sensor cameras lose out. To get back to wide angel you would need a 17 mm lens, that would give you 27.2 mm FOV.
To figure FOV take the lens multiply it by the crop factor. On a Canon it is 1.6, on a Nikon it is 1.5, the 4/3 sensor is 2.0.

The cap is a plastic disk, usually black or silver, that snaps on at the end of the lens to keep the lens clean. Some lenses have two caps, one for each end when not attached to the camera.
Some cameras don't use a "loose" cap; those cameras generally retract the lens into the camera body and "close" a door in front of the lens.
Many, if not most, camera users do not use a cap (my guess).

The wide angle lens is generally an "optional" lens that can be used for group or scenery pictures when you want to shoot a "wide" picture. A "normal" lens is generally around 50mm (plus / minus 5mm). A wide lens is anywhere from 17mm to 24mm (or so).

I recommend obtaining a wide lens... with a cap.

Hope this helps!

It may be that your subject is too far away. The range of your internal flash is 12 feet if you have the ISO set for Auto, or 23 feet if the ISO is set for to 1000. You may get Normal 0   Normal 0 acceptable results with the ISO set to 1000 without the flash, but you should put the camera on a tripod (the shutter speed could be as low as 1/8 of a second) and use set the zoom for wide angle (the lens lets in almost 8 times the light as it does in maximum telephoto.)

I hope this helps,

Mike

If you are using an accessory telephoto lens, you will need to zoom out to about midway or further in order to fill the image frame.

An accessory lens called a "fisheye" may not cover to the edges of your image. Even wide-angle accessory lenses may show vignetting (a darkening of the corners) or unsharpness in the corners of the image.

Do you have any filters on the lens? If so, you might be seeing the filter rim. (round filter, rectangular picture)

If you're using a DX lens on an FX body, you also might see this.

Remove the lens hood to avoid unwanted bottom shadows.

Look carefully at your images taken with flash... on the horizontal image is the lower part of the image slighty darker and have a rounded fall off at the edges? Is the vertical image dark side a straight hard line or is there a rounding to the top and bottom?

What we are looking at is if you have a very wide angle lens with the lens shade attached to the lens, then the built-in flash catches part of the lens shade and make a shadow on your subject... take the lens shade off and try the same shot and see if that makes a difference...

Have a great day...

Ed

An adapter tube has to flare out at the end or it will cut the corners off at the wide angle setting. Telephoto should be ok though.