Kicker ZR600 Car Audio Amplifier Logo
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
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Kicker zr600 smokin havent even bumped yet today

I popped my fuses put new ones in and then went to trun my stereo my amp started smoking .have been using 40 AMP fuses. whats goin on??

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    If smoke was coming from inside the amp, the power supply FETs have almost certainly blown. This could be the only problem or the PS FETS could have failed because the output transistors have failed. To determine the extent of the damage, the components inside of the amp will need to be tested. Let me know if you have any other questions.

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  • Posted on Mar 04, 2010
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Hi as an ex Kicker repair engineer for the UK's main Kicker distributor I am completely familiar with this amplifier! The advice I am going to give you must be carried out by a competent engineer. Chances are that the power supply mosfets are all shorted & this is where the smoke will have emanated from, this will be obvious by the appearance of the mosfets being "charred" & possibly black "Witness" marks on the pcb. There are 6 of them, 3 either side carrying the prefixes: Q43, 44 45 & Q 47, 48 & 49. If when checked with an ohm meter they are found to be short, all will need to be replaced. The following components can be used: RFG70N06 or HUF7343G. However before this is done a couple of other checks must be carried out first. Remove all 6 offending mosfets, power the amp. up on the bench & use an oscilloscope to check the pulse width modulator waveforms coming from pins 11 & 14 of U7 (PWM i.c, SGS3525) both waveforms should be identical. If there is no output then this component will need to be replaced. Now check the following resistors with an ohm meter: R92, 93 & 94 + R99, 100 & 101, they should each read 47 ohms, any that are open circuit must be replaced. These resistors are critical as they feed the mosfets with the waveform generated by the PWM i.c to produce a working power supply, necessary to generate the correct voltage rails needed to make the amp. work. When you are satisfied all is ok then you can replace all of the mosfets as detailed earlier, before powering up again though 1 further check will be required. Using the ohm meter again check all of the output transistors for short circuits, there are 16 of them & are identified by the following prefixes: Q13 - Q16 (TIP35C), Q17 - Q20 (TIP36C) & Q33 - Q36 (TIP35C) + Q37 - Q40 (TIP36C) if any are found short circuit between any of their pins they will need replacing. This amp must be protected by 3 x 30 Amp fuses (90 Amps) & the in line fuse feeding the Amp. power cable should include the same rated fuse. If you manage to repair this ok make sure the installed cable is has a large enough cross section to supply this current, if it does not chances are this was the cause of the mosfets blowing in the first place. All the best! acbva.

  • Anonymous Mar 04, 2010

    Please note that in the description I have written on the repair of this amplifier the part quoted "HUF7434G" should in fact be quoted as "HUF75343G" Regards, acbva.

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  • Posted on Jan 04, 2010
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Well it seems to me that the pictures of this amp show green ATC fuses which would be 30 amp fuses. What is your inline fuse from the battery? 40 amp fuses for the amp is too much current for the amps powersupply. If there was a short in the powersupply the max ammount of current that it could draw would be larger than designed to handle therefore damaging the amp.

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