NEED TO KNOW from scratch,step by step,how to wire 2 exhaust fan to double single pole switch? What is the proper breaker,type of wire and do you any kind of thermostat.

We cannot see the product you are asking about
Example single throw switch is household light switch ..., flip the switch either direction and load turns on-off.
Example double pole switch is 240 volt double breaker... flip the breaker and two wires turn on-off.
Example triple pole switch is any 3 phase contactor or 3 phase timer ... flip the switch and three wires turn on-off

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/3-Pole-contactors.html

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

In a traditional North American residential electrical panel (120/240 volt, single phase), installing a single width or single pole circuit breaker, you would expect to read 120 volts from the breaker terminal screw to either ground or neutral. A double width or double pole breaker would provide 120 volts from either of the breaker terminal screws to ground or neutral AND it will provide 240 volts BETWEEN the TWO breaker terminals.

A single-width circuit breaker case that contains two handles is NOT a two pole circuit breaker (these are called "tandem" or "1/2 size" breakers). This is because a single width breaker engages only one "line" in the panel. A double width breaker will engage 2 "lines" as a triple width breaker would engage 3 "lines" of a 3 phase panel. A single wide breaker can not physically engage more than 1 "line" so it will never be able to pass 240 volts.

You must install a double width / double pole breaker to safely supply a 240 volt circuit / device.

You need 240 breaker:
Notice that your 240V breaker is twice as wide as regular 120V breaker.
Notice that both switches are tied together on 240V breaker, making this a double-pole breaker.
For more information about breakers and 120-240V circuits:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

T103M is 120Volt timer that can handle all the Christmas lights.
Minimum on-off time 1 hour.
Rotate dial until current time lines up with silver pointer.
Set on-off trippers on dial.
Let's go step by step.

1) T103 has terminals A 1 2 3 4 >> terminals are also called poles
DPST (double pole single throw) and SPST (single pole single throw) are two different ways to wire this particular timer.
T103 timer can be wired numerous ways... but your project is not complicated.
DPST means timer turns off two terminals/poles (double pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)
SPST means timer turns off one terminal/pole (single pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)

2) T103 timer is ST single throw, all the lights come on at same time. So this timer is 1 channel.
1 channel timers are either ON or OFF and everything turns on-off at same time.
You cannot stagger on-off times with 1 channel timer.
If you want upstairs and downstairs lights to come ON at different times, you need two timers .. or a 2-channel timer (which is different ballgame).

3) T103 timer has 120Volt clock motor that is connected to terminals A and 1.
Look at timer and you can see small white wires connected to A and 1 terminals that power 125V clock motor.
When wiring this timer, your wires from 20 amp breaker box connect to terminals A and 1.
Black hot wire from breaker must connect to terminal 1
White neutral wire from neutral busbar must connect to terminal A
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

4) Terminal 1 must be hot so when timer switch clicks ON, it sends power to terminal 2.
Your load wires connect to terminals A and 2
I made simple drawing of SPST option showing how to wire T103 to 3 receptacles.
Fixya downgrades image so it's hard to see.
Hot wire to terminal 1
Load wire to terminal 2
Neutrals on terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-21Kb.jpg


If you want to wire timer for DPST, which is necessary for loads exceeding 2 horsepower (1500 Watts) on each terminal
Notice black jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3
Notice all white neutral wires to terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-17Kb.jpg

I made third image for guy who was wiring high amperage blowers, that show wiring for two T103 timers. Having two timers would let upstairs and downstairs lights come on at different times.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-with-2-timers.jpg

The T-103 has a 120Volt clock motor

From there, the wiring can go two directions depending on your Load voltage (load is the fan, light or motor that timer turns on-off)

Here is a link that shows exact wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103

When wiring the T-103, steps 1-2-3 are true for 120V or 240V installation:
1) A white Neutral wire is always connected to terminal A (Neutral wire connects to Neutral busbar in breaker box)
2) A black Hot wire is always connected to terminal 1 >> this hot wire can come from 120V or 240V breaker
3) Black wire going to Load (fan, light, motor) is always connected to terminal 2
The following step is true for 120V Load
4) if Load is 120V, then white wire from Load connects to terminal A
The following steps are true for 240V Load
5) Only the neutral wire connects to terminal A as described in (1
6) The second Black hot from breaker box (240V has 2 hot wires) connects to terminal 3
7) The second White going to Load connects to terminal 4

Here are 2 more links that show how 120V and 240V circuits are wired
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Your statement is a bit off the wall

Do you have two single pole switches or two double pole switches

You would normally provide a Live, Neutral and Earth to each fan via a switched , double pole, fused spur box .(You run a cable from the spur to a junction box) , you then run a LNE to each of the fans (using plastic trunking or conduit if the cables cannot be sunk into a wall).

Inside the junction box you remove the Live supply cable from the connector which should now be carrying three cables leaving the two cables running to the fans.

Put the Live wire into the spare connector inside the junction box

Get a twin and earth cable with the two wires marked up as Lives (Brown or Red in the UK, or whatever your wiring colour code dictates in your country) take those to a single pole switch which is convenient to you and wire them in

Back at the junction box put one of those wire into the connector where the two Supply wires for the fans are and tighten them up

Put the second wire from the On/Off switch to the Spare connector in the junction box which is holding the Live Supply

You then have a fused supply with a switch to break the circuit

If you do not need a switch then ignore the second part and just rely on using the switched fused spur to control them.

You can use a single pole switch but it is safer to stick with the double pole version

The breaker will be out of the loop as that will provide the power and you should not be fitting wires to it

You need to get a new electrician; a real electrician would read the power requirements on the motor name plate and install the correct voltage and amperage circuit.

A single pole breaker does not supply the same voltage as a double pole breaker. It hums because the voltage is wrong

You need to put in what we call a sub box. This should be done by a licensed electrician, but if you really want to do it yourself you will need a distribution box some wire and it has to be connected directly to your main lags from the meter box, this box will have a main breaker built into it and spaces for additional breakers, depending on your existing wiring the electrician might chose to wire the additional box directly to your meter base and not your existing box. Either way you really should seek local professional help on this project, just for your safety and to satisfy your home-owners insurance.

Have a great day..
Tim

NO! Use a switch rated higher in amps and equal to or higher in voltage relative to the breaker rating. Use a 40 or 60 amp switch rated a minimum 220 volts.

A Google search for "15 amp pushmatic" turned up several links. Here's one for a retailer with new ones and an eBay store with cheaper prices (maybe pullouts):

http://www.aplussupply.com/break/push/push.htm

http://stores.ebay.com/Sparkys-Place_Pushmatic-Categories_W0QQfsubZ10975954

Did you also check the big-box stores like Home Depot or Lowe's or electric suppliers in your area?