Can the VARAD HYPERLED tubes (24 LEDs each, be used without a controller. The only thing I know is the 20 MegOhms or so DC resistance.

Fuel injectors are typically driven directly by power transistors in the engine computer. Relays are just not fast enough to provide the fine timing control needed. There might be an individual fuse for each injector soldered to the computer board, but I haven't ever looked at one for your model, and I've never seen injectors individually fused. Before chasing that, verify that the electrical resistance of the injector coil is the same as the other injectors. The typical resistance is between 100 and 1000 Ohms. If the coil resistance differs by more than 10%, replace the injector coil (it may be easier to remove the coil from a new injector and switch it with the old one than to pull the entire injector out and replace it, if not, change the injector). Shorts in the coil that lower the resistance are sometimes a problem.

Also check the injector cable for continuity. An easy way is with an ohmmeter that can read at least 20 Megohms. First, check the resistance between the terminals on a good cable. You should read a very high resistance - this is the leakage through the transistor and any protective components, and is some number between 5 and 20 megohms. The exact number doesn't matter, as long as you see something and it is not a short circuit (less than 1 Ohm). This verifies that the test will work (if it reads over-range, either your probe tips can't reach the contacts in the connector, or the test is otherwise not valid). Next, repeat on injector 1. If it reads open circuit (over-range), check the injector cable (note: an open fuse will give the same result as a broken wire).

Based on the information provided, it seems that the Norcold N611R fridge in the travel trailer is experiencing issues with cooling on AC power. The green and yellow LEDs are blinking, and the fridge stops cooling after running for a random number of hours. The gas cooling seems to be working fine, and the fuses, AC/DC power, and power board have been checked and replaced.

One possible cause of this issue could be a faulty heating element. To check if the heater is working properly, you can use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the heater. The resistance should be between 44 and 52 ohms. If the resistance is outside of this range, then the heater may need to be replaced.

Another possible cause of this issue could be a problem with the thermostat or temperature control system. If the temperature control system is not functioning properly, then it may not be able to maintain a consistent temperature in the fridge, which could cause it to stop cooling after a certain amount of time.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections in the fridge. If there is a loose or damaged wire or connection, then this could cause intermittent cooling issues.

In order to diagnose and fix this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional technician who has experience working with Norcold fridges.

Could be a short in the strips test the strips In each row if you look at the row count the LEDs each require 2.8 dc volts add them up for each row example if you have 9 in the row you will need 25.2 volts dc to power test it .if you look at the right side of the strip you will see 3 dots a plus two minus use center minus as ground and plus for positive . If leds still flicker or dim or some don't light than theres a short within the led strips .

Displays have their own power supplies if you are referring to a Floro tube. The two things that happen to them is the filaments come lose and due to poor soldering and in some units there were DC-DC converters that converted 12 V to 35 Vdc for the segment drive section of the tube. First is to inspect the filaments terminals usually two of them on each end of tube- this might require taking the front panel off and then the front PCB out of the unit- a job for a Technician. If these are soldered well and they usually are not due to wave solder, then check for AC voltage there 4-6 Vac then on to the DC-DC converter and check for 0-35 Vdc. The failure of the DC-DC converter is often times Electrolytic caps going bad after so many years- 20 years ago I was already changing a lot of them on Hitachi decks. It is a well know problem Now with so many more years gone by the rest of the power supply now becomes a thing to check all voltages from.

In generally, Cummins generator is with Deep Sea controller.

SPECIFICATION
DC SUPPLY
CONTINUOUS VOLTAGE RATING
8 V to 35 V Continuous
CRANKING DROPOUTS
Able to survive 0 V for 50 mS, providing supply was at least 10 V before dropout and supply recovers to 5 V. This is achieved without the need for internal batteries.
LEDs and backlight will not be maintained during cranking.
MAXIMUM OPERATING CURRENT
340 mA at 12 V, 160 mA at 24 V
MAXIMUM STANDBY CURRENT
160 mA at 12 V, 80 mA at 24 V
CHARGE FAIL/EXCITATION RANGE
0 V to 35 V
https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/deep-sea/dse7320.html

These are both power open and closed. Yellow and green should be constant on the leds. C&D is your 24 volts for the controls. If you got power going in but nothing coming out of the board it is bad. If you got 24 going to the damper but damper not responding obviously it's bad. Usually communication is DC voltage, likely 12 or 13 DC at A&B. Good Luck!!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

50.1 Error: (Low fuser temperature)
1. Verify the fuser is installed correctly and fully seated.
2. Check that connector J6007 on the fuser is seated correctly. Replace the connector as necessary.
3. Turn off the printer.
4. Remove the fuser.
5. If there is no conduction in the main thermistor, measure the resistance between fuser connectors J6007LA-1 and J6007LA-3. If the resistance is not 100 kohms to 3 Mohms, replace the fuser.
6. If there is no conduction in the fuser heater, measure the resistance between fuser connectors J6007LAF-1 and J6007-2. If the resistance is not 5 ohms to 1 kohms (100 to 127 V) or 20 ohms to 1 kohms (220 to 240 V), replace the fuser.
7. Upgrade the DC controller firmware.
8. Replace the DC controller PCA.

50.9 Error:(High fuser temperature (subthermistor))
1. Verify the fuser is installed correctly and fully seated.
2. Check that connector J6007 on the fuser is seated correctly. Replace the connector as necessary.
3. Turn off the printer.
4. Remove the fuser.
5. Measure the resistance between fuser connectors J6007LA-2 and J6007LA-3. If the resistance is not 100 kohms to 3 Mohms, replace the fuser.
6. Replace the DC controller PCA.

If gas coils read more than 2500 ohms they are bad, replace gas valve. See page 23

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

E030 (The total copy counter fails to operate.)
1)Turn OFF the power, and remove

J104B from the DC controller
PCB. Set the tester range to
x1KW, and measure the
resistance between J104B-2 and
J104B-1. Is it about 500W? NO
Check the wiring from
the DC controller PCB to
the total copy counter; if
normal, replace the total
copy counter.


2)Connect J104B to the DC
controller PCB, and turn ON the
power. Set the tester range to 30
VDC. Does the voltage between
104B-2 (+) and J104A-6 (–) on the
DC controller change from about
24 to about 0 and then to about
24 V when the Copy Start key is
pressed? YES =replace the totalcopy counter.
NO =Replace the DCcontroller PCB

Are you using a Kofax SCSI card or an normal SCSI controller like Adaptec?
By using a normal SCSI controller, is there an ASPI driver problem after a WIN XP update? After an update check the ASPI dlls in \sytem32. They should be version 4.71 or higher.

Check the SCSI connector pins and the terminator.
If available change the cable.

Scanner check:
Is the green lamp (Ready) on or is the red lamp (Error) on?

- green lamp on:
the internal self test is ok, but the internal SCSI interface may possibly faulty.

- red lamp on:
the internal selftest detect an error.
It's possible that the DC/DC power board, the CPU board or the power supply inside the scanner is defective.
After reassembling the front side camera you will see at the bottom a PCA board with some LEDs whitch indicate by red light the different voltages when power is on. You find the different voltages printed at the PCA close to the LEDs.
In case on or more LEDs don't shine the according DC/DC transformer on the PCA is defective.
Futher you see LEDs at the camera PCAs. They should be on too.

In case the CPU board has an defect you must have an special Kodak activation tool to unlock an new or used CPU board after exchange.