I have the same problem. JavaMan is right. In one case someone even reported the bridge rectifier had failed. I have mine apart right now, trying to decide whether to attempt to fix it. The power board has been warped a little from the heat, and I can no longer read the color bands correctly on the power resistors to try to change them. Thanks for the schematics, JavaMan; unfortunately they don't match my boards, so I'm out of luck, and can't find anything else.
The components aren't expensive, so you might be able to take it someplace and have it repaired (or have a friend do it) fairly cheaply if the schematics here match your sub. I think I'm gonna chuck mine, which I hate to do since the speaker and cabinet are still good. I've just wasted too much time on it, and already have another in its place.
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That is sometimes called a "radiator". It's a speaker cone that moves opposite the main woofer and produces sound waves out of sync with the powered woofer. Very sophisticated piece of audio engineering intended to enhance bass response.
I would check the caps on the power supply. They are rather large electrolytic capacitors that will look like they burst and/or leaking. When these die, the caps ground and the sub will make a loud buzzing sound. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can replace them yourself. Replace them with the same voltage or a little bigger and same with the size.
If the cap. says 16v 4700pF on it, for example, a 20v 5300pF or a 16v 6200mF cap. will work for this application.
I suggest you go over your receiver set-up instructions. See if you need to set the receiver to acknolwedge the addition of the subwoofer. It should be in your receiver set-up steps. Just as a check, hook up one of your other speakers to the subwoofer lead to see if gets audio signal. I'm guessing the issue is your receiver settings.
Low level inputs are designed to take signals directly from an amplifier's "sub out" connections. That way the KLH amplifier will use those signals to produce sound and the volume can be balanced between the main amplifier and the sub amplifier using the sub's volume controls. Depending on your amplifier and sub, that is the best way to connect them. However, be careful running the RCA cables since the low levels are more subject to interference. Keep the runs as short as possible and use high quality shielded cables for the interconnects.
Yes, for best results. Your subwoofer should have a seperate amplifier because it has low pass filter that produces low frequency signals. It is done by connecting the sub woofer output to the input signal of the amplifier and then connecting the output signal to the subwoofer speaker terminals. Hope this helps.
This woofer was taken from a KLH Pro-71 Series. These were the top of the KLH line from ~94-99 when it was still a real company and not just a name. The woofer is rated for 5-350 watts at 8 ohms. Source: KLH Pro Series-71 Spec Sheet.
Some specific model numbers might lead us to specific manuals and specific instructions.
Depends on your source and its amplifer complement. Some can drive a subwoofer directly while others just produce a Line Level subwoofer output for use by a separate amp feeding a subwoofer or self-amplified sub. The set-up of the source to produce a subwoofer output is totally dependent on its design. Generally, you have to 1) tell it you have a sub, 2) define how bass will be routed or shared among your various speakers accordingto their bass-handling capacities, 3) using test tones, set the relative ludness and crossover settings so you have a uniform sound field.
To find a manual, maybe run it by the manufacturer
This means that you have purchased a three piece home theatre system. Two tweeters and a sub-woofer. Assuming you are using a Stereo player (Tape/CD/DVC)you have to connect the Left Output of the Stereo placer to the Left Input at the back of the Sub-Woofer and the Right output to the Right input of the subwoofer by cables. Then take tweeters and connect them to Right speaker and Left speaker output at the back of the sub-woofer ( note if the speakers are marked L/R, then connect them to the subwoofer output accordingly. In case you are using a 5.1 player, then only connect the front right and front left to the Right and Left input at the back of the subwoofer. You are and you can now start playing your music or movies and and you will get theatre quality sound.
Think as an expert...
Probably from my experience repairing woofers etc... the cone (1) or the spider (2) isn't well glued onto the woofer skeleton(or both???)
The woofer cone must be absolutely centered or else you will get those clicks in low frequencies(you also get them in higher frequencies but you can't hear them!)
I must say that it is very difficult to repair a woofer by your own.
I suggest to return it back where you bought it and take another one (i suppose that you have a guarantee ha?).