No toilet flange

Hi Connie.

Hoping I'm visualizing this properly. The stand pipe under the house is generally pointing upward and has a flange on it. The toilet will have an indent on the bottom that is somewhat larger that the flange diameter. Then there will be a wax ring that is seated around the neck of the flange right before the toilet is placed down on top of it. The general process is that a new wax ring is placed, the toilet is lifted and, as carefully as possible, lowered straight down over the floor bolts. Once it makes contact on the floor, the toilet is gently rotated a small bit clockwise and counterclockwise to make sure that there is a good solid contact with the wax. The toilet is set square to the wall and, hopefully, with the floor bolts centered on the slots. Someone sits down carefully on the toilet to put pressure on the wax and seal it (this should not be done on a cold day, as the wax may not flow, and may even crack and leave a gap).

From what I saw you write, my questions would be whether the wax gasket was installed. if not, pull the toilet, obtain a gasket, and try again. if one was installed, were the remains of the old gasket thoroughly cleaned away from flange and toilet bottom? if not, the old wax may have cause uneven flow/sealing with the new ring (too much wax in the space).

You can also check that the leak isn't coming from higher up, like at the join from bowl to tank. If it's leaking there, depending on your toilet model, it might leak once the flapper is lifted in the tank, flow down the back outside of the toilet, and down under the house. In that case, it could be a bad seal, or the tank-to-toilet bolts not having been tightened.

Hoping this gives you some ideas

D

rubber flapper in the center of the tank replace.

hi, the tile is supposed to go under the toilet flange (the thing you put the wax ring on), very common "oops", can be rectified by placing another wax ring right on top of the first on. best to make the first one a "horn type" wax ring, then put the plain one (no horn) on top of first and try to smoosh it on just enough to stay in place so when you install toilet it doesn't move,.....cheers!

Replace the wax ring between the toilet and flange in the floor drain. Clean out the wax of the old ring very well.

No. There is either a partial blockage between the floor flange and main stack or you have not installed the toilet properly and the wax seal has squeezed wax over the outlet hole. Always clean all old wax off of flange before installing new seal.

Hacked off the old seat? You mean the closet flange that connects to the sewer pipe?
That's the part that has the bolts. They go up through the toilet base.

If you have just a straight sewer pipe now, you can connect a new closet flange to it.

1.Hardware stores sell a rubber sleeve. This sleeve fits over the cast iron, or copper, or plastic PVC pipe, and the new closet flange has a stem that fits down in the sleeve. There are two large hose clamps, that come with this rubber sleeve.

The rubber sleeve is an adapter. It adapts the 4 inch sewer pipe, down to the 3 inch stem on the closet flange. (Toilets are known as a 'Water Closet', hence the flange that the toilet bolts to, is a 'Closet Flange')

Whatever size of rubber sleeve you need to adapt two pipes together, they have it.
The new closet flange is made of PVC plastic.
(Poly Vinyl Chloride)
The flange itself is about 1/2 inch thick, and has provisions for bolts. (Use Toilet Bolts, and nuts)
Be sure the closet flange sits flush to the floor. The 1/2 inch thick rim of the flange, sits on top of the floor. The flange is then screwed to the floor with countersink head screws. The slots allow the bolts to just slip in.

IF, the flange Does Not sit level on the floor, and the area for the toilet base is not level, you need to make a flat, level surface!
Do Not half step this, or you'll have a toilet leak from now until the time you fix the floor!

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Hrm, I see what you mean and this may be a bit late.

The 14" rough in is not standard (as in 12") and the depth (from the back of the tank to the front edge of the bowl is your concern here?).

Kohler also has a Sterling brand with the Windham model. This will sit on the 14" rough and measure less than 30" from the back wall.

You could also go with a Toto ($$$ concerns) as they have a unifit system that allows for adjustment from your roughed in closet/toilet flange. It basically mounts to your flange and then sets back 2" or 4" depending on which model Toto toiler you are installing. The Soiree-?sp may be your best bet for depth concerns, but not so good for your wallet.

Chris

yes there is an offset toilet flange that moves the toilet roughly 3 inches

They make plates that go under the  (plastic pipe?) flange which allows one to tighten down the toilet better. Seems that your flange and toilet are not level with one another? You may need to use plastic or other shims to level the toilet before  tightening the bolts.

The tank holding the proper amount of water is a good sign. The inside of the stool is like the GOOSE NECK under you sink. It always holds water. This may sound like a bit of a hassle to do but if all 3 toilets are identical, here is what you can try if you are a bit handy. Go to the hardware store and purchase 4 toilet wax rings with a plastic flange and a few sets of toilet floor flange bolts(they are cheap and you can always return if not used, as It is better to have xtra parts on hand). Turn off the water supply to the "Mystery Toilet". Leave the tank and everything connected to the stool. Flush the toilet and remove all excess water from the tank and bowl. This can be done with a shop vac, sponge or towel. Disconnect the water supply to the tank. Remove the bolts holding the stool to the floor and carefully remove toilet. Scrap off all the old wax from the floor flange and bottom of stool. Now go and repeat this proceedure to one of the toilets that is working properly. In other words Switch the "Mystery Toilet" with a "Working Toilet" and see how they react. If the working toilet does it in the same bathroom and the "Mystery Toilet" does not do it in the other bathroom then you probably have a VENTING PROBLEM. If the "Mysery Toilet" Does it in the other bathroom then you most likely have a Defective Toilet. This Job is best done by 2 people, as it can sometimes be challenging to center the new wax ring on the toilet flange. Reconnect to the floor and reconnect water supply to the tanks. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN BOLTS to the floor flange as you may crack the toilet. All drain lines must be vented properly for water to flow. If you are curious check out drain venting on the internet. Also, sometimes a vent can become obstructed with debris, ice, bird nest, etc.. I would 1st check the vent on the roof visually and then have someone flush and listen. If you believe the vent is clear....Then do the toilet switch and go from there.....Hope this helps and Happy Holidays....Joe