No water pressure coming out while ingine is running. hoses/ attachments not clog. Pulled and opened pump, didn't see anything broken although noticed pump was filled with oil/lubricant but about 1/4" below top surface. Is it suppose to be filled to the top? What kind of oil is used on the pump? And how come there's no water pressure coming out while the motor is running and handle trigger engaged?

Check the water pressure at the water inlet. Next, your water inlet solenoid is malfunctioning. Replace it if necessary.

sonsunny

HELLO THERE AND THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING FIXYA
E1 : washing machine has exceeded a check time for fill, heat or empty.

Common causes for this are fill and empty problems, heater fault (or the wiring
to it broken), water pump open circuit (although that would stop the water draining too) Pressure chamber blocked or pressure tubing pipe looped below the pressure bottle, or a sticking eco ball in the sump hose (sludge and grease build up) I WOULD FIRST CHECK THE PUMP AND SEE IF IT IS CLOGGED AND IF THE FILTER IS CLOGGED THEN CHECK OUT THE PRESSURE LINES THEY ARE LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE MACHINE AND BEHIND THE BACK PANEL
kEEP ME POSTED ON HOW THIS IS GOING OK SO I CAMN CONTINUE TO HELP YOU ON THIS UNTILL IT IS SOLVED
bEST REGARDS MIKE

OE means your machine has failed to drain within 10 minutes. There are a few posibilities. Your drain hose could be kinked or clogged causing the machine not to drain. Try using a shop vac to remove the water from the end of the drain hose. If a shop vac won't **** out the water either, you have a clog somewhere ing the drain hose, of the hose from the tub to the pump. If it will drain the water you need a new pump. If there is no water in the machine then the problem is either the pressure switch, the hose going to the pressure switch, of the control board. The pressure switch is on the back by the control board. You will see a black rubber hose going attached to it. Remove it and see if you can blow through it. If you cant it is clogged somewhere. If it is not clogged then the most likely cause is your pressure switch and next the control board.

Good news, your engine runs
But your pump may be bad

Here's how to test your pump
Check oil as outlined lower down
Disconnect the washer hose and gun
Connect water hose and turn on water and water should pass straight through the pump
Look for clogs in the hose-end where water hose connects to machine

Turn on machine and see if water shoots out pump
If water shoots out of pump, but no water shoots out of gun, then you may have a 'mud-dobber' wasp clog in your washer line or gun

Look for clogs in the end of each water connection.
Now connect washer hose without the gun, tun on the machine, and see if water shoots out of washer hose
Finally, the gun trigger mechanism may be bad
I don't know which gun you have ... but we replaced guns on our machine now-and-then ... google-search power washer guns for a replacement

Check your pump oil
Pump oil is SAE20 or SAE30 non-detergent motor oil
Pump should be no more than 1/2 full of oil
Use plastic hose to drain pump oil
Do not turn machine on its side or turn machine over or engine oil will run into carburetor

The only thing missing from your narration is the water pump. Check to make sure that you are not losing coolant from the water pump. Make sure it is not leaking coolant. If there is evidence of leaking, the water pump is bad. You must take extreme caution when dealing with the cooling system (hot liquid under pressure; not a pleasant thought), but you can remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Check the coolant in the radiator for movement/circulation. If the water pump is functioning properly, there should be some visible sign of water/coolant circulation. The water pump may not be at fault, but with the other upgrades you made to the cooling system, some gunk (for lack of a better word) may have broken loose and clogged the ports in the water hose. You can also remove the hose at the water pump and check for anything clogging up the works. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.

I have a similar problem and diagnosed it to be a problem with the gun. I spoke to a technician that services this pressure washer and he walked me through all the diagnostic steps. The pump is working because there is pressure being built up and the gun sort of works because you can get water out before the washer is started. The technician said that the mechanism inside the gun is either clogged or broken. I am going to Home Depot or Lowes to purchase a new gun and will try it tonight. Guns are only about $30-40. He said generic is fine as long as the thread matches and PSI is in range. Good luck!

HI, check the following areas to address this poor draining issue.


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

Make sure you get water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you get water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case replace the water valve.

Concerning the drainage issue(left over water at the bottom)


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

http://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/campbell-hausfeld-pw138000-pressure-washer-parts
Hope this helps. I have the same problem. It's not the switch but the mechanism that slides inside the switch, which activates the switch to go on and off. I fnally found it so hopefully they have the part in stock. It's not a clogged wand trust me I have torn it completley apart and found out it is the mechanism in the switch is plastic and breaks.

Have you checked the drain hose??? It may be clogged to some degree or where it meets either the garbage disposal or t-tailpiece, whichever you have, or where it comes out of the water pump. Also, the impeller inside the water pump might look good but may be worn, and check for broken glass which is hard to see in the bottom drain area at the grate. Hope this helps.