On 1-25-08 my partner and I installed a brand new fan type wall
furnacein very old apartment building. After we got the old
furnace out and new furnace in place we realized that to make the new
furnace fit properly the bottomplate of the furnace would have to be
removed. I know that thisis not the thing to do but because of
existing vent, and no room forplay, we felt that we had no other
option. I personally thinkthat this could be part if not all of
our problem. I'm thinkingwith this plate missing furnace plenum
is not able to gererated enoughheat to activate my limit swithch to
power my fan. When T-Statcalls for heat burner flame ignites as
it should, but no fan. Ilet furnace cycle 3-4 times to really let
some heat generate inside ofplenum to see if limit switch would make
nothing. After a whilethe vent switch on the furnace which is NC
will open on temp. rise asit should to kick out gas to burner.
Jumped out swithch fan runsfine. Removed switch aswell to test
switch for proper operation,switch is closing on temp. rise, and
opening on temp fall as it isdesigned to do. Even though my limit
switch test ok, could itstill be faulty. Had another technician
that I work with to bringme another limit switch just in case it was
bad. Long story shorthe brought me a NC switch by accident, being
that it was getting late Iinstalled the NC switch to give customer
continuous fan operationthrought the weekend, so they would have
heat. I have ordered anew fan switch, but still not certain to
what is causing fanswitch/limit control not to close and complete
circuit to fan. Ifnew switch does not resolve problem, is it
possible to use anotherlimit switch that closes @ lower temp.
Existing switch is rated @120F-25F. Thanks for any assistance you
can give me.
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controller switches are changing every day
there are available a variable speed unit that alters the sine wave so you have any speed you like
Talk with a fan shop or qualified electrician as they are easy to install and are as cheep as the others
Mistake #1, calling the plumber/installer to diagnose a heating problem; unless of course he was dually licensed as a plumber and a HVACR technician. (Heating, Ventilation, Air-Conditioner, Refrigeration)
I would contact the plumber/installer in case of parts / unit warranty or installation issues since you purchased it and had it installed by him.
Your unit has a combustion motor with a "squirrel cage" type fan attached to it.
The purpose of the combustion motor-fan unit is threefold; it acts to purge (exhaust) out any gas build-up before ignition occurs; it pulls outside air (oxygen) in through the intake pipe which is needed for flame ignition and to maintain it; while at the same time - vents spent/toxic gases out the flue pipe.
There is also one convection fan motor controlling two convection "squirrel cage" type fans. It's purpose is to circulate the heated air created by the heat exchanger, into the room.
On initial start-up, it is the combustion motor/fan unit that kicks in, so if you are hearing the noise at this start up phase, this would be the source of your problem.
The convection fan motor doesn't kick in until there is a heat rise sensed by the low-limit switch; meaning, If the blower came on at the same time as the burner, it would pump cold air through the house at first. The limit switch includes a sensor in the heat exchanger to determine when the air is warm enough to circulate. Once the air reaches a preset temperature, the limit switch turns on the blower.
Therefore if you hear the squealing sound when the convection blower turns on, that would be the source of the problem.
Why would the noise occur, most likely the sealed bearings in the motors are going bad; or perhaps the fan blades are loose and wobbly; or something got inside the fan housing and is chaffing.
A major cause of early, premature combustion fan motor wear is improper installation of the flue pipe; condensation flow back to the motor will damage it
Another reason, manufacturer defect in the motor; it happens.
Hi, I'm an electrician and can answer your question.
This switch may be expected to operate your paddle fan / light correctly, when properly installed.
"Properly installed" means that the loads will not exceed the limits of the switch. For your Cooper 6482V-K this is: 300 watts of light (bulbs should be standard incandescent types - or other type such as compact fluorescent, but only if they are clearly labeled as "dimmable") and not more than 1.5 amps for the fan motor. This 1.5 amp rating of the switch is usually more than enough to handle most residential paddle fan / light fixtures. The lights must be connected to the continuously variable dimmer and the fan to the 4 speed switch - do not swap.
Here's my best shot.
Check the temperature settings for the fan switch.
The low OFF setting should be about 100 degrees.
The ON setting should be around 150 degrees and this is the setting that "makes" the ON contacts.
The HIGH LIMIT setting should be about 180 degrees.
If these are set, can you use a meter to see if the FAN ON contacts are closed?
Lastly, it appears that one hot line should go to one side of the blower and the other hot line should go to the bottom FAN terminal with the other side of the blower being fed by wiring from the top FAN terminal.
Good Luck. Gary
mcdevito75 here, If the wireing in your home / apartment is old and especially if you have an A/C unit or refrigerator on the same circuit as the celing fan lights may flicker with these other appliances going on. --------------- You can also check the wall switch that turns the fan lights on.
If this is the old style limit/fan switch. Turn power off
remove the wires and label where they got disconnected from and wire the new one in. Make note of the settings on the old limit switch so you can
adjust the new one. The limit switches come in
different lengths so get the right one.
If it is a flat bimetal disc, then I think you have only to
wires that have to be connected so hook up same
to wires from the old one. With Bimetal disc fan
limits you need to make sure you get the same
temperature reading as the old one
You probably can't get the existing mechanical timer to operate any quietier, since it's old and likely starting to wear out. You can either swap the timer out for a new automatic digital timer, or install a standard single pole switch in its' place.
I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.
Some local jurisdictions have impossed more stringent requirements, but frankly, having an exhaust fan is normally a good idea. If the fan is vented into the attic space, it can cause some serious problems in cold weather with condesation of the warm, moist exhaust air.
Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.
There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.
If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.
You can now operate the fan with either a manual on/off switch or the new digital timer, whichever you chose to install.