Sub woofer flashing red and green

be sure it is set to synch.. (discoverable)

This is a powered sub-woofer, with a complementary sound bar. The amplifier for the sub and the sound bar, are in the sub cabinet. Because there are multiple speakers in the sound bar and sub, there are multiple amplifiers to run them. If any, or all of the amplifiers are damaged, they generally have a condition known as DC Offset. There are sensor transistors on each of these amplifiers, which will "report" a damaged amplifier condition back to a microprocessor(computer inside the Bose system). When this damaged condition is identified, the amplifier will shut down the system, and that red indicator will flash. You will need a professional, audio specific technician, as this is not a DIY repair.

If any of you are interested in having your systems repaired, please contact me from my website, audioserviceclinic.com. Just FYI, this is not a Bose specific issue. The same problem can occur with any amplifier, any brand. Thank you.

It is hard to say. The sub-woofer has its own amplifier, although it is supplied the sound data from the main amplifier. It could have a problem with the battery power circuit (Sub-Woofer Amplifier Connector Pin 6, LIGHT GREEN/VIOLET) or it could have a problem with the GROUND circuit (Pin 2, BLACK/LIGHT GREEN) Or it could possibly not be receiving the signal from the main amplifier (Pin 7, BROWN/ORANGE "+"), (Pin 8, RED/BLACK "-"). Or it could be that either the sub-woofer speaker is blown, or the sub-woofer amplifier is defective.
There is also a "High Audio Mute" circuit that connects between the main amplifier and the sub-woofer amplifier.

Standard stero is GREEN/Lime
Microphone is PINK/Light RED
SUB-Woofer would be black - maybe blue - not sure

Setting the RX-V861 remote control to operate Zone 2:

1. Using a ballpoint pen or similar object and press the [CODE SET] button RX-V861 remote control. The[TRANSMIT INDICATOR]on the remote should flash twice.
2. Using the [NUMERICAL KEY PAD] on the remote and key in 9992, the [TRANSMIT INDICATOR] should flash.

Assigning the receivers internal amp for Zone 2:

1. Set the remote control selector to [AMP]. (Located to the right of the volume buttons on the Remote.).
2. Press the [SET MENU]button on the remote control.
3. Arrow down to Manual Setup and press the Enter button on the remote control.
4. Arrow to the [SOUND MENU] option and press the [ENTER] button on the remote control.
5. Arrow to Speaker Set and press the [ENTER] button on the remote control.
6. Arrow to the EXTRA SP ASSIGN and select ZONE2
7. Press the [RETURN] button on the remote control to exit out and return to the Manual Setup.

NOTES: There is an option for setting the Maximum Volume and Initial Volume in the Zone Set menu.

• Max Volume: This is an optional feature but isrecommended to prevent the accidental change in volume levels thatcould damage the speakers and receiver.
• Initial Volume: This is also a great feature that would seamlessly start the volume level for the second or third zone at the desired level.

We do not recommend using any Speaker Selector boxes to enable more than the recommended number of speakers per terminal.
Controlling Zone 2 using the RX-V861 remote control:

1. If the Main Zone on the receiver is on, press the [POWER BUTTON]down and while holding that button down press the [PHONO]/[**] button on the remote. The [TRANSMIT INDICATOR] will light up.
2. You will not be able to use the following buttons on the remote: (Pressing any other button will cause the remote to exit Zone 2 mode. [POWER], [STANDBY], [VOLUME], [MUTE] and the [INPUT SELECTOR] buttons [DVD], [CD], etc.)

There are the instructions as written straight from yamaha. If you need any further assistance please let me know.
Thank you,
Lee

TURN THE SOUND UP

It could be that the unit is bad, it could also be that the device providing the input is bad. I doubt the cables are bad, but that could be also. Could it be possible that your television has a menu setting that turns the outputs off and on?

Even without the sub, you still get sound through the Bar.

Only way to test it is, different cables, alternate device to provide input for sound.

Has nothing to do with the signal or source - it is a failure of the turn on circuit - I repair this amp - can help if you find my add here or I am located on ebay as well. Juust do a search for We Repair JBL and find the model :)

is it the car vibrating or the sub making the noise ? if its the sub making the noise check all the screws holding in the sub and make sure they are tight or make sure nothing got sucked into your box if it is the car making the noise try using dyna mat to help stop the noise also check the surround on the sub and make sure there is no seperation of the surround from the cone

buy a new one.