I've been having a problem with my dryer not producing heat. I tracked it down to a faulty operating thermostat and the thermal cutoff. After replacing the operating thermostat and thermal cutoff the heat worked fine for about 10 minutes and then only cold air was blowing again.
I checked the newly replaced operating thermostat and it had burnt out again! The thermal cutoff seems to bo OK, now. What could be causing the operating thermostat to burn out like this?
Hi,
Start the dryer in a cycle and watch the burner area.
You should see the ignitor start to glow. After a few seconds of it
glowing you should hear a click and the gas come on and ignite. If the
ignitor does not glow, look on the top of the air duct to the left of
the gas valve. You will see 2 temp sensors. One will be white with 2
small blue wires going to it. UNPLUG THE DRYER NOW Remove the
wires and connect them together. BE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING
ELSE
Plug dryer back in and start dryer again and see if ignitor glows
and burner lights. If it works now, you need a new thermal fuse. You
also want to make sure the vent duct is not clogged with lint or the
hose is not kinked. I DO NOT recommend that you run the dryer with
this bypassed. It is a safety mechanism.
If this is not the problem or your dryer is not front servicable, post back and i will try to walk you through the problem.
Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate me as fixya..
I belive there are people out there who fix problams if you look in the yellow pages or phone book look for dryer repair i know people on here should help but it is easier if people could see the problam.
Have you checked the venting ???? the heat could be backing up into the dryer causing it to burn out.?? Run a load with no vent on and see if it is ok..JUST a NOTE:the operation(cycling) stat the Hi limit Stat and the Thermal cutoff are all diffrent The Thermal cut off is located on the upper part of the heating element housing...The hi limit is on the bottom of the element by the terminals to the heating element.. the cycle stat is on the exsh. ducting I just wanted to make sure we were talking about the same part
did you try to run a load with the vent off?? also the breakdown of any thermostat or thermal fuse is Heat related either caused by heat backing up into the system or lack of air floww you may need to open the dryer and delint it how old is it ?? has this ever been done?? is the exhaust feel strong coming out the back??
Did you do the things that i had asked so we can look deeper into the unit??
the wires you are taping off are for a little heater in the stat it is wired thru the moisture sensor first plug back in the wires and set on a timed cycle see if it works ok ... You may have a short in the sensor circuit causing the tsat to burn out...POST you email here and i will get you the service manual in PDF format
leave the purple wires on and jumper the re and red/white ones on the stat and retest
check your email
Wow you kill he here all the help i gave you on this machine and you rate my help 2nd best to a guy who advises you to call a local repair company ...GEEEEZZZ
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When I run a load without the vent, Can I run a load with the wires that go to the operating thermostat taped together to bypass the thermostat and avoid burning out a new thermostat, or will that cause more damage?
Also, I did try to clean out the vent after it burnt out the second time. There was a bunch of lint, but it didn't seem to be excessive or blocking anything.
See comments above.
Master_Tech thanks for your response.
It's a six year old dryer, I am going to delint it now. No, I don't think anyone has ever opened the dryer to delint it.
Yes, the exhaust is coming out strong.
I've attached a picture which shows how I can get hot air to flow through the dryer by removing the purple wires going to the thermostat and connecting them together with electrical tape.
I'm guessing it's not safe to run the dryer like this, but do you think I can run a few loads of laundry with this setup? Also, I replaced this is one of the parts that I replaced last weekend.
Thanks for your help!
I tried connecting the purple wires back to the tstat and tried running a cycle with timed drying and got only COLD air.
My e-mail is mgurzenski at hotmail dot. com
Thanks for your help!
Purple wires connected to tstat and Red/Red White wires = COLD air on timed drying and "Normal" accudry mode.
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