Set the saw on a bench with the bar to your right. Toward the back of the bar there will be two bolts. Remove them. You should be able to remove the side cover. Observe the bar and how it is mounted. There will be a small hole in it with a little metal piace sticking in it from the other side. This is the tension adjuster. Remove the bar by pulling it toward you. You will need to push it back toward the sprocket in order to slide the chain off.
Now you should be able to see the adjuster more clearly. Clean out any saw dust you can see that was behind the cover.
Take a good look at the adjuster. There is a screw that goes in right next to where the bar would have come out. this is what moves the sdjuster. Counter clockwise will loosen it. Clockwise will pull the bar out further tightening the chain.
To ease installation of the new chain, give it a few turns couter clockwise.
Put the new chain on the bar. Ensure that the sharp parts of the teeth on the top of the bar are pointing away from the saw.
Hold the bar somewhat in position, but at an angle and slip the chain around the sprocket.
Next, hold the bar in position where it goes and slide it away from the sprocket until the udjuster tang comes through the hole in the bar.
If it is too tight to do this, adjust the tension until you can get the tang in the hole.
Put the side cover back on and put on the nuts, but do not tighten them very much. just finger tight for now.
adjust the tensioner while snapping the chain like a rubber band until it returns to the bar, but can still be pulled away slightly.
Once this is done, tighten the nuts on the side cover completely.
Once the chain heats up for the first time it may get tight on you. When you let off of the throttle the chain binds up. If this happens, loosen the two nuts until they are finger tight again, and turn the tensioner counter clockwise. Do the same test, snapping the chain until it is back in adjustment.
Set out the chainsaw parts in front of you. Make sure the chain is facing the right way to cut wood; the teeth should be facing away from you when you are holding the chainsaw.
Secure the chain around the sprocket (a cog-type part found near the chain tension nipple) and align it along the grooves of the bar. You will see a hole for the chain-tension nipple on the end of the bar. Line these up so the nipple fits in the hole on the bar. Pull the chain to tighten it, using the screw to achieve the desired tension
Place the cover plate back on top of the bar and line up the cover-plate housing screws with their corresponding screw holes
Screw the cover-plate housing screws back in and tighten. Test the chain to make sure it spins freely when pulled.
Check the chain to make sure you can lift it about 1/4 inch, so it isn't too tight to spin while cutting wood
The side plate on most chainsaws will be held on by two nuts. Loosen the blade adjustment screw (a pin that is usually driven by a screw and pushes the blade out from the chainsaw to keep the chain tension tight).
The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw's bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.
Remove the old chainsaw chain.
The chain will easily remove from the guide bar with all that slack in it. Note the orientation of the cutting edges of the chain so you put the new one on the same way.
Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.
Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw's clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.
Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose, making sure all links are in the guide bar slot.
With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.
While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw's adjustment pin.
The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.
Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.
The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.
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