How to fix an ELECTRIC FAN

It seems like the indoor fan is not running. Quite a few split systems have a fuse on the indoor board. It will require stripping off the outer cover of the indoor unit and removal of the electronic box cover. The indoor board is in there. The fuse may be replaceable or it may be a type that is soldered on which makes it virtually non replaceable. ( A new indoor board will be required) Make sure all power is turned off or disconnected before you do anything. Another possibility is the fan motor start capacitor has failed. Try this first before stripping the unit. When the unit is turned on and the outdoor unit has started, give the indoor fan barrel a flick with your finger to start it spinning, if it keeps spinning and the error doesn't appear, it would indicate that the fan motor start capacitor has failed. The capacitors on indoor units are normally small black square boxes with 2 terminals on it. These capacitors are mounted inside or close to where the indoor electronic box is. Again, make sure all power is disconnected or turned off at the meter box before you do any disassembly.

Your new fan motor should have a diagram with it or at least printed on the side of the motor, that will help a lot from your end. As for me, I don't know what unit you have, so I will try to help you with just the basics.

Your old motor probably had 3 wires. One went to the contactor, that is the "Line Voltage", one went to the Common terminal on the old capacitor (COM), that's the other "Line Voltage" wire, and the last one went to the "FAN" terminal on the old capacitor. The reason the old capacitor looks different is because it works for both the compressor and the fan motor (split capacitor). You still need this hooked up for the compressor to work.

The new fan motor.
These vary in brands and wiring so I can not tell you the colors without knowing exactly which motor you have. On the new motor wiring diagram, you should see the "Line Voltage" as described above that 2 of the wires are ran to each other (just on the diagram, not wired together on the unit). This is your power wire that goes to the contactor on the unit, usually black, and your Common wire that runs to the capacitor. You can still run this wire (COM) to the common terminal on the old capacitor since you still have to use the old capacitor for the compressor and the common terminal should still be jumper-ed from the contactor to the (COM) terminal. Then you will probably have 2 wires for the new capacitor, usually Brown and Brown/White. These wires run to each side of the new capacitor and doesn't matter which terminal. Then you will take a new jumper wire from the (COM) terminal on the old capacitor to the terminal on the new capacitor that has your Brown/White lead. Make sure you secure the capacitors inside the unit so not to touch anything surrounding them. Your new motor might also be a "Reversible" motor that has reversing wires also. Again, your new motor diagram can tell you how to hook these up. You have to have it spinning the right way, most of the time it is CCW (counter-clockwise).

I'm sorry I can't be any clearer on this, but without knowing the brands, models, etc, I'm in the dark. If you need any additional help, I would be glad to help! Good luck and hope you get to cooler days!

1 turn power off remove appropriate fuse

2 UNSCREW PROTECTIVE CAP

3 screws aqre visible they usually hold 3 wires
black green and red. if they have losts of black wound together it means they are in series with other lighyt switches. Ideally get an electrician in.

anyway unscrew the wires from their holders and attach a new swtch placing wires basck in the same congfig. RED is LIVE Black is RETURN ( Usually) and Green EARTH.

(Sometimes live and return may be blue and brown)

put cover back on replace fuse and turn power on and hope there is no "bang" because you put wires in wrong way

follow the wires coming off the fan they will lead you to the relay from that the relay will run to the temp sensor which trips the relay for the fan

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)