JVC AV-56P575 56" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television Logo
Anonymous Posted on Dec 16, 2009

ICs + resistors swapped= blue power light auto on clicking noise

I replaced my convergence IC when I had my convergence problem and then the tv quit working and went to this problem with the blue light and the clicking noise. I then replaced the resistors and I still have the blue light and clicking issue, Any suggestions on how to fix this, I would be greatly appreciative!

Dec 16, 2009 - I meant the blue LED power button light, not the projector light. I checked all of the connections and plugged it in again and it automatically turns on but no picture/sound and still makes a clicking sound.

Dec 16, 2009 - It's still making that clicking noise after I re-soldered the IC's and replaced the bad resistors. Checked all the connections and one seems to be missing. Its located on the right circuit board on the back of the TV. Its a 5 pin plug located at the A column and half way between 5 and 6 quadrant. I can't find any cord that goes to it nor remembering anything about removing it initially.

  • Anonymous Dec 20, 2009

    I unplugged the convergence board and it doesn't turn on now. Would I then check CRT drivers, maybe one is loading down the 200V power supply (tip from someone else, no clue how, what, or where to test this) ?

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Paul

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  • Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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Unplug the power to the convergence board. If it turns on, you still have a problem in the convergence circuit.

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I changed my two IC chips and three resistances on my Hitachi TV to fix color alignments. Now the problems is that yellow and blue double image are seen at the bottom of my screen with no much effect on...

Ur tv still have dead resistors parts,test all 12 resistors parts around the 2 STK convergence ICS and changes some more dead resistors parts or changes all 12 resistors parts for sure.If tv still have the same problems after tested and replaces more resistors parts or all 12 resistors parts.Than some how when u handling and replacing the 2 STK convergence ICS and resoldering the 2 STK covergence ICS u short it out the 2 STK convergence ICS by resoldering without proper grounding ur self not to allow for static electricity to kill the 2 STK convergence ICS or u using a soldering iron to high of a wattage for doing soldering ICS work.
tip

Convergence - diagnosing a convergence problem - bowed picture/rainbow...

Convergence = the joining together of the 3 colors making up the picture cd3c9b5.jpg
Here is a picture of a Convergence mis-alignment

Typical repair:
Replace both convergence ICs + any burnt up resistors + any blown fuses = repair cost $250-350 or repair it yourself for about $30 and a few hours of time. Repairing requires tools, soldering and disassembly skills.

Overview:
All CRT rear projections have 3 picture tubes - red, green, and blue.
Each picture tube has an electromagnet (yoke) that pulls the beams horizontally or vertically. Therefore, there are 6 convergence amplifiers. One for each color, vertical and horizontal. Any one of these amps can fail independently, or whole sections can fail. Depending on the design of the TV, almost all use an IC (integrated circuit or "chip"). These have a part number beginning with STK (ie stk392-110 most common *see pic below) and run very hot, and fail regularly (5-8 years). Most STK designs have 3 amps per IC, giving you 2 ICs to run the convergence. Many manufacturers will have all 3 vertical amps on one, horizontal on the other. Others will have both the red amps on one, the blue on the other, and the green will be split between the two ICs.

Diagnosing:
The best way to diagnose is to enter the convergence alignment for your TV. Some TV's will have an auto alignment, others will let you adjust the colors yourself. The auto align is hard to troubleshoot because you cannot tell which will not move. If auto align does not work, you have some sort of failure or malfunction. In a manual alignment, you can see which colors will move and in which directions (vertical or horizontal). Using this deduction, you can see which amps have failed and replace accordingly. Red and Blue are typically adjustable, while green is left to factory alignment and not user adjustable. Try looking at the picture with something familiar on the screen. Try to have words or letters around the edges. You can usually see which colors are straight and where they belong, and which colors are out of place. If every color is off in both directions, this is a good indication that there is no power at all. The amps run off + and - 24 volts, and usually have 2 fuses for each power supply line. If everything is off, these fuses probably blew when one or both of the ICs shorted out. *RCA customers see below* Each convergence amp has some resistors that set up the amplifiers gain. Typically and input resistor (small like 1.5 ohm 1 watt) and a feedback resistor (larger like 150 ohm). Its quite common for the smaller value input resistors to blow out, so check them before you replace everything. They are typically right by the ICs (largest heatsinks in the tv) and most of them you can see if they're burnt up. Unhook the yokes (mark them if unmarked) and then you can OHM out the resistors to see if they are opened up. Replace any possibly bad resistors, sometimes they check good but look damaged = replace them! Some TVs will just be dead or go into shutdown. If the + or - 24volt fuses are blown, suspect the ICs and replace them both.

Repairing:
This is kind of tricky, as these ICs usually have 18 pins on each of them. Find all your bad parts, remove them and replace with good ones. The fuses and resistors are pretty straight forward. The ICs are harder. They are mounted to the heatsinks and depending on the make and model, they can be hard to get out. They are thermally bonded to the heatsink with heat sink compound or paste. If it is dry, replace the paste with new stuff. Make sure to get a nice, even, and thin layer on there to give a good heat transfer. The trick to the ICs is to make sure all your pins are straight before you install them. Start at one end and slowly work the IC and get each pin to pop into the hole. Once you solder in all the bad parts, the TV should be able to kick back on and run. At this point, its good to center the colors up in the customer mode. If you want to take it further, get the service manual for that TV and go into service mode and do the full re-alignment. This can backfire so get the manual or make sure you know what your doing as you might accidentally erase all the data.

cb47ab9.jpg
*stk392-110 = the most common IC. Almost all look just like this

Convergence is a very common failure and can be repaired by someone with a little soldering know how and some time to dedicate. Its quite complex, and every make and model are different. Let me know if you have any specific questions for your product and I can help you get the job done. Remember to have patience, good luck!

*RCA typically uses no ICs, and the convergence power board blows out (older models - wood cabinet) OR a small fuse blows out because of solder connections on the flyback transformer (newer models - plastic cabinet) and just needs resoldering and a new fuse.
on Jun 01, 2010 • Televison & Video
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Double photo

Replace both of your STK ICs STK392-110s use 150s Mats has Them 1-800-628-1118
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Convergence IC + Resistor swap = Blue light clicking noise

Good Day,
It sounds like you may have slightly diconnected a cable. Look for the large RED cable/wire that goes to the Blue tube and make sure that they are very secure. When doing this make sure the TV is off.

Good Luck, BIG IRISH.
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Turns on has blue light thats it no sound or picture

convergance amps are failing and need to be replaced along with the 2 burnt resistors not a bad job they are locate on a smaal board in front behind the front panel on a large heat sink you can take the board out and work on it
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When the convergence amplifier ICs go bad (STK392-xxx), they RARELY cause more than one color to go out. The fact that the top and bottom of the picture are effected indicates the vertical convergence IC. Replace both, and while you're in there check the bias resistors... it is likely one of these is open. Once the ICs have been replaced (as well as any open resistors), customer convergence followed up with the auto convergence should do the trick.
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Only use the same part number when replacing convergence amps, or you will need to replace all of the power resistors with recommended values for the convergence amps subsituted.
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