After reading the other postings I was confident in replacing the direct motor coupler. Bought one and popped it in. Hit the spin cycle and round and round it went. Then the loud clunking sound started, followed by a grinding noise and the spinning stopped. When I turn the direct coupler by hand (after I took it a part again) it seems to catch (but dose not turn the shaft) and sometimes seems to jam. My question is, do the gears strip out on the gear case often? Or do I have a different problem?
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If it's a coupler with a metal insert, they typically fit very tight. I use a socket on a 6 inch extension to tap them on with a hammer. Just be sure socket is large enough to go over transmission and motor shafts.
Normally that motor turns one direction for wash, and another direction for spin. Suggest you undo the coupling again and run the motor firstly in a wash mode. If all is well, forward dial to spin mode then watch if motor changes direction. If it doesnt, very possibly the timer is faulty. If it does change to the spin direction then your gearbox has a problem. Once the reverse direction comes into play, it is supposed to activate a series of gears in the gearbox which will engage the large drum into a spin direction. If there is a loud grinding noise then possibly a gearbox issue. email address is [email protected]
HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
You can find complete instructions here: http://www.askgene.com/2007/02/07/whirlpool-washer-direct-drive/how-to-replace-the-motor-drive-coupling-on-whirlpool-direct-drive-washer/