Question about American Standard Cambridge 5 Ft. x 32" Right-hand Drain Whirpool Tub, Whit

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I hv a whirplool gas dryer mod. lgr4634jq1..I hv replc'd ignitor2 thermost internal bias but repair book calls for3403140 thermal fuse but dryer has a rectangular fuse not shown in manual..?shud i do??

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Anonymous

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Good day,
You have the standard heating system on that model dryer.
It uses a standard thermal fuse which is a long skinny white bakelite device, with 2 wires on it and held in with one screw.
I hope we are talking about the same thing. The thermal, and all thermostats on this machine are located in various places on the back of the machine behind the rear panel.

If all else fails, remove the device you are talking about, and along with the model number you posted and take it to a local appliance parts house.
Any good appliance counterman will have the answer.

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

  • Anonymous Dec 14, 2009

    Good day again,

    That part number you listed is for a high limit thermostat #3403140. It is one of many thermostats in the machine along with the thermal fuse which is used as well.



    Due to liability issues, appliance manufacturers have gone overboard in protection devices

    including the 2 we are covering here. There are more.

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Roper dryer Mod# REL 4636BW Worked fine this morning, does nothing this evening. Breaker not tripped.


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:
http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 7)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 6)
Thermal Fuse (Item 8)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not turn on is:

1. Blown Thermal Fuse

2. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 08, 2010 | Dryers

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Dryer stopped now won't start


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 24)
Thermal Fuse (Item 23)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a drer that will not turn on is:

1. Blown Thermal Fuse

2. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 02, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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How many thermostats are there and where are they located?


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 9)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 8)
Thermal Fuse (Item 7)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Mar 21, 2010 | Whirlpool WED5700S Electric Dryer

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Dryer wont heat up. It runs fine but no heat. Replaced the Thermal fuse"flat white with 2 wire terminals.


gas or electric ok gas replace gas coils check glow bar ignighter,check thermostates,,,,,,electric check power to both sides of wall outlet you need 220 volts and it will start and timer will advance on 110 vts second check second fuse looks like a thermostate normally located at top of heater coil call if you need to http://www.washerwizzards.com

Dec 24, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a lgr4634jq1 gas dryer flame wont stay lit runs but no heat


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Sep 09, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

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Either your dryer vent is clogged, the blower wheel is striped out and not turning or the internal bias thermostat you bought is bad. These are the only things that can make the dryer over heat.
Please rate solution.

Sep 04, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

No heat,tumbles,but no heat. good cont. thru thermal fuse,no cont. thru thermostat internal bias? think that is my problem? Any thing else I should check? I get good cont. thru heat coil also. thanks mike


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, you need to check the Thermal Cut-out and Hi-limit thermostat. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the heater box near the heating element. Read through the info I provided and double check the continuity of these components. If either the TCO, or Hi-Limit thermostat are bad, replace them BOTH at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any replaced components. They are commonly sold as a set.

NOTE: The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are located on the air blower housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. The Internal Bias thermostat may still cause heating problems, but is less likely. Replace it if you like, but I think you may have a TCO that has failed.

If there has been a failure of the heating circuits, I would recommend you do a thorough cleaning of the dryer exhaust ventilation ducting to ensure you have no clogs. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Ok, this sounds like it could be what is know as your machine's "Thermal Internal Bias" (TIB) device (Whirlpool part #: 3387134). It's @ $15 I think and easily accessed by removing the rear panel of the dryer. It is attached to the blower housing located on the lower left as your are facing the dryer.

It's designed to "cut-out" if the dryer temp is too great at the blower. After the air cools a bit it comes the dryer contines operating. Your TIB my be getting weak and not so hardy as to tolerate the high temps. Replace and give it a try.

Remember to unplug your dryer before attempting this! Safety first and always!

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