Refrigerator Defrost issues - Check those door gaskets

There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following: PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE Loud operating sound level • See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Defective compressor • Defective overload or relay Refrigerator too cold • Refrigerator temperature set too cold • Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section • Freezer temperature set too cold • Restricted condenser air • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload • Heavy usage • High ambient • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Loose or missing condenser fan blade • Improper voltage • Defective relay or overload • Compressor motor winding • Non-condensibles in system • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Opened door • Heavy usage • Defective freezer fan motor • Opened defrost thermostat • Opened defrost heater • Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade • Heavily frosted evaporator • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Inefficient compressor Refrigerator too warm • Refrigerator temperature set too warm • Freezer temperature set too warm • Return air or air supply duct blocked • Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked • Heavy usage • High ambient Problem Possible Cause Freezer too cold • Freezer temperature set too cold Long off cyde • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Short off cycle • Heavy usage • High ambient • Freezer temperature set too cold • Light constantly on • Poor door gasket seal Long or continuous run cyde • Heavy usage • High ambient • Inadequate condenser air flow • Freezer temperature set too cold • Loss or restricted refrigerant Short run cycle • Light usage • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Exterior cabinet condensation • High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions. • Freezer temperature set too cold • Poor door gasket seal • Insulation void

Hello Marion Rae,

Absolutely ... worry!

GASKETS are NOT A guaranteed availability item.

Condensation has no place in your FREEZER & the entire purpose of the "GASKET" is to PREVENT IT...!!

It will soon form as solid frost on the "EVAPORATOR"
and reduce its performance...

The NEXT defrost cycle should remove it..
but if the problem worsens you could over-fill
your defrost pan... and experience WATER PROBLEMS.

You SHOULD be able to FEEL full and firm gasket all around your FREEZER DOOR... NORMALLY I tell people to test for it by doing the "DOLLAR TEST"...

YOU don't need to test... you have CONDENSATION your
gasket is FAILING to accomplish it mission.

Worry is poor (not great) advise...
Have the work performed correctly...

BEST advice... ACT.

PUT IN YOUR MAKE & MODEL number...
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Carnac the Magnificent

If the icing is on the back wall in the freezer, the main reason for ice to form will be, if the defrost system is not working. There are 3 main parts to the defrost system:

1. Timer or Board
2. Heating element
3. Bi-metal (sensor)

If any of these parts fail, it won't defrost and icing will occur.

Another reason will be if the evaporator fan motor quits. It will have the same affect as a no defrost condition.

If the icing is everywhere, side walls also, this is usually caused by moisture. This is from air leaking into the cabinet. It could be from the door not closing good, gaps in the door gasket or it could be leaking around the cabinet flange. For gaps in the door seal you can use a hair dryer to straighten it, just be careful not to get the gasket too hot. If the cabinet flange is leaking, some RTV will seal it.

dh means defrost problem.replace defrost control and element,behind freezer panel.dont forget to unplug fridge before you work on it

Things to check - door gasket seals for leaks, dirty condensers that need to be cleaned and dust removed, proper clearance to the back and sides of your unit.

Is your evaporator fan in the freezer functioning normally ? is your freezer cooling normally ? You might want to check at the back of your freezer panel for overfrost on the evaporator that will impact cooling performance. You can shut down your unit and try manually defrosting and melting the ice and then run your unit for a couple of hours to see if cooling is back to normal........ if it is, then your defrost system is malfunctioning and you will need to have the control board and/or defrost system components checked.

Otherwise, if overfrost and door seals and dirty condensers are not an issue and you have also tried raising the cooling dial up and compressor run-time is excessive then you may have a sealed system issue but rare and not the common causes. Most common causes are overfrost on the evap / defrost timer problems and damper (flaps that do not open properly).

you will need to have those checked if all else fails.