Air Compressor WL611800 not working!!!

You didn't provide all pertinent info available to you. Lets take what we have; and, consider why your compressor is overloading the circuit breaker. Points to ponder:

1. Not knowing the exact model (not series) I don't know what the amperage pull is for your "extreme" compressor or the circuit breaker's rating. A 25 amp compressor connected to a 25 amp breaker could be an issue. Campbell Hausfeld's support pages are crashing so I can't check the possabilites.
   

2. Are you using a lightweight extension cord? The lower the rating of an extension cord the higher the amp pull on the breaker. If you eliminate the extension cord does the problem go away? Ohm's Law applies. <http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms-law-calculator>
   

3. What else is on this breaker? Is there other high-amp equipment in another room (water cooler, window air-conditioner, portable electric heater, etc.) pulling from this same circuit breaker.
   

4. Is the circuit breaker not performing to specification? I've seen failing breakers trip early.
   

   First, check the owner's manual for power requirements. Next step, use no extension cord; and, insure nothing else is pulling power on that breaker. Then, use a different breaker and see if the problem follows the compressor. If all else checks out than I'd consider binding in the compressor causing the amp pull to be too high.
   

   Good Luck!
   

It is a 15 amps motor and will need 6 times (90) that amount of amps to start up. Plugging it into a 15 amps circuit may work but a 20 amps circuit is more apropiate. Kitchen circuits are 20 amp circuits.
You can try plugging the compressor directly into the wall and see if it refills with air without trippiing the circuit breaker. Using an extension cord should be done with a #12 or #10 wire gage type, smaller type will cause a power loss in the cord and will cause the compressor motor to trip the circuit breaker.
Power formula is I square R, or the amps multiplied by itself and by the resistance of the wire. E.G. 90x90x4 = 3200 watts. This is at start up. To find the voltage drop divide the watts by current, 3200/90 = .... get the point? Keep voltage drops to a minimum, use heavy wire gage extension cords.

you could have a weak breaker or the breaker is not rated for the draw of the compressor have a pro check it out

1st check breaker box to see if you have power (tripped breaker) If you have power you should have a licensed contractor diagnose it. Caution the voltages in testing can be high, even deadly if you don't know what you are doing. You must have the proper tools to test. 3rd check 24v signal power. 4th test the capacitor to see if it is within 5% of rating 5th is there a start kit/compressor saver/5-2-1/start assist, or does it need one. 6th test windings and add up the resistance.

Good Morning Marty, thank you for allowing me to assist you. Here are a few simple troubleshooting tips that may help you resolve this issue:

· First, confirm that the unit has power to it.


· Check the power cord connection to the wall outlet is secure.


· Make sure that the house circuit breaker has not tripped.


· Try testing the air conditioner again. Make sure the unit is turned off, Press the TEST button, you will notice a clicking noise as the BUTTON pops out. Then press the RESET button. Again, you will notice a click as the button engages, now turn unit on. If the LCDI plug does not reset the cord may be damaged.


· The "Cool" circuit has an automatic 3-minute compressor time delayed start if the unit is turned off and on quickly. This prevents overheating of the compressor and possible circuit breaker tripping. And the fan will continue to run during this time.


· If the unit has been turned off and on rapidly or if the thermostat was changed to a lower number and then immediately turned back to a higher number the compressor may not start. You must turn the unit off and wait a minimum of 3 minutes for the unit to equalize before restarting.


If these assessment measures prove to be ineffective, I would strongly suggest contacting an authorized service technician who would be better able to assist you in the diagnosis and repair of your unit. You can often locate an experienced technician in your area by going to the manufacturer website.

If the in-tank check valve is leaking air back into discharge line from the pump, the motor will not have enough power to overcome headpressure. Easy test with some air in the tank. Remove the discharge hose at the brass check valve at tank. Spray soapy water on valve to test for leak. If leaking remove the valve and clean the seat or replace as needed (drain air from tank before you remove the valve). If no leak at the valve, test the capacitor(should read to within 95% of mfd rating). Good luck

Hello You have a 3 ton unit with a 10 SEER rating.this unit should NEVER be on a 50 amp breaker.The breaker size is on the model plate/sticker....any way the compressor is shot and it is time to find a new 3 ton condensing unit.espescially if it is TRIPPING a 50 amp.Good luck

Are you sure your breaker is Motor rated ? you see often a motor will draw 3-4 times the amount or run current at startup, you normally need a special breaker for such a thing, or at least a breaker that will accommodate the "In rush" current at startup. That is always assuming there is no short between Phase and Neutral/Earth. Please check. In the "old"days a "Fuse" had enough headroom to do this some breakers are real pedantic about trip currents, as they should be.

You need to verify if the problem is the unit or the breaker.  To do this, you will need to measure the current it is pulling from the power source.
If the unit is pulling too much current, then the unit is the problem.  If the unit is pulling as much or less than its rated current draw, then the circuit breaker is worn out.
The units WILL pull more power when hot outside.  It should not trip a breaker unless something is wrong with either the unit or the breaker.
A current draw test will tell you for sure.
If it's not the breaker, then it's probably low refigerant causing the issue.

The power strip is rated too low for the wattage of the unit and that causes the breaker to trip. I would be better for the unit if it were plugged directly into a wall outlet, because there is less a chance of voltage drop which would burn out the unit. They will only tolerate 10% voltage drop before getting into trouble.