Blue crt leaking fluid, what causes this. is it an easy repair to stop the leak and refill

According to WinBrake.com: "
Air in the System

A spongy pedal is usually a sign of air in the system. Air may have got in through the master cylinder because the fluid level is low. If this is the case, refill the system with the correct grade of brake fluid, then bleed any remaining air out. Often the cause is simply that the fluid is leaking from somewhere in the system. It's usually pretty easy to find the leak if there is one, and once found it should be fixed straight away.

Once the leak has been fixed, refill the system with the correct grade of brake fluid, then bleed the system." They have a good site: http://www.winbrake.com/training_spongypedaldiagnosis.html

The unit is detecting that either the A/C clutch didn't engage or there is not enough resistance for the pump (no freon in A/C unit). It shuts down to protect itself.

have a mechanic check which option it is and give you an estimate. Then you can decide on a DIY recharge or have the shop do it (or shop do the clutch).

I would recommend professional job on the freon refill because they have the equipment to test for leaks. After all, the fluid leaked out from somewhere so any DIY refill without fixing the leak will just be more ozone killing fluid in the atmosphere.

Good luck and please rate me.

-mark

YOU CAN GET A USED PUMP FOR UNDER 50.00 AND IT IS EAY TO INSTALL AND DONT FORGET TO BLEED AIR FROM SYSTEM AFTER REPLACEMENT

If fluid was refilled, how is the level now? If it's low again, it may be the problem. If it has a leak somewhere, fluid could possibly leak on the belts that drive the power steering system, causing the squeal or screech. So check the fluid level again, if it's down, top it off, and have the leak fixed. Let me know what you find, and if u need more help. Curt

you need to remove the CRT from the set. the problem CRT is the blue CRT. after removing the gun leave the yolk inside. there is a drain plug on the side of the CRT remove it and drain into a hazard waist container and dispose of it as hazard waist according to your local regulations (ethylene glycol) very dangerous if ingested. use rubber gloves and becarefull of the CRT it can implode. after its drained you must take the lens assembly off the clean the CRT face. use 95% rubbing alcohol to clean the face and lenes of the gun. replace the lens assembly and refill the chamber with fresh fluid. replace the CRT assembly in the set. alien according to the service manual. check for leaks after warm up. if leaks accure remove the CRT and repeat the process but save and re-use the fluid reseat and clean all gaskets and make sure the screws are tight.

yes it more than likely is related to the spill.
this model is famous for fluid leaks. each projector tube has a reservoir on the front of it with a fluid in it. this keeps the face of the tube cool.
this depends on how bad the damage is in the tv. in most cases we can reseal the tube and clean up the fluid 400-600.
Once you
take the tube out you will see where it leaked. The problem is that the
frame on the CRT that the heavy screws with springs are mounted on (that
hold the lens coupled to the CRT) is weak and they can bend. We have seen
several that have leaked after the customer moved the set. You can only
tighten them down so much because the frame bends. It is just stamped metal
and not welded at the corners to support the bend.

We remove the CRT, clean it all up, add a very small amount of RTV sealer to
the gasket, reassemble, let the RTV cure thoroughly and refill with coolant.
The extra sealer should prevent future leaks. Haven't had a recall yet.
Mits says replace the CRT...too costly.

You msut check the yokes carefully as well. If any coolant gets into them
you can end up with shorts there and a mess.

Clean the boards carefully and repair any corrosion damage. The coolant is
ethylene glycol and glycerine which is water soluable.

this an indication that one of the tubes may be out. red or green

The picture tubes in these models (red, green and blue) use a liquid coolant to keep them cool. In this set usually the blue and green fluid will become contaminated which has a major impact on picture clarity and brightness. If you take the screen off and look directly into the lenses you will see directly how bad the fluid looks. The Red usually is not affected by this problem.

The buzzing could be a noisy coil or possibly a high voltage leak. There may also be some leaking fluid involved in this as I have seen fluid gather around the high voltage cup (underside of the tubes) and cause the high voltage to arc a bit causing noise as well.

This repair is not for the faint of heart as it involves removing the affected tubes, disassembling, draining, sanitizing, reassembling, refilling, reinstalling and realigning them. The glycol based fluid is messy and it's easy to get into big problems if there are any leaks, as the leaks will usually end up on the main pc board. Our shop charges about $350 for this repair.

Opened up the back and vacuumed out all the caked on dust that was everywhere. I used an insulated brush to help remove the dust. Dust can kill heat dissipation. Open up the front and check for fluid under the CRT circuit boards. The one on the right (as you face your TV) is the blue one. For some reason, the diaphram for the glycerin in the blue optic is on the back side and leans down. It tends to leak and spill on to the circuit board below. Some symptoms I noticed: blue shadow, blinking blues, complete blue outage, unable to complete the autoconvergence, and arcing/sparking (from another post). I had to pull out the blue CRT, silconed the rubber gasket, refilled the fluid and repaired some solder joints where the fluid caused a short. Works like a champ now. Tell tale sign is the pool of fluid when you access the front chassis. Pull off the speaker grill and shine a flashlight on the inside underneath the CRT circuit boards and look for the fluid. Glycerin doesn't dry.

this model is famous for fluid leaks. each projector tube has a reservoir on the front of it with a fluid in it. this keeps the face of the tube cool.
this depends on how bad the damage is in the tv. in most cases we can reseal the tube and clean up the fluid 400-600.
Once you
take the tube out you will see where it leaked. The problem is that the
frame on the CRT that the heavy screws with springs are mounted on (that
hold the lens coupled to the CRT) is weak and they can bend. We have seen
several that have leaked after the customer moved the set. You can only
tighten them down so much because the frame bends. It is just stamped metal
and not welded at the corners to support the bend.

We remove the CRT, clean it all up, add a very small amount of RTV sealer to
the gasket, reassemble, let the RTV cure thoroughly and refill with coolant.
The extra sealer should prevent future leaks. Haven't had a recall yet.
Mits says replace the CRT...too costly.

You msut check the yokes carefully as well. If any coolant gets into them
you can end up with shorts there and a mess.

Clean the boards carefully and repair any corrosion damage. The coolant is
ethylene glycol and glycerine which is water soluable.