Have looked at the STK392-120 chips and the 6.8 ohm resistors. The resistors show no signs of damage, heat or otherwise.Could the problem still be the STK392-120 chips?

Some simple advice---if resistors are smoking one of the chips is shorted----The set has two voltages that go to them--one a positive voltage and one a negative voltage.

If either chip is shorted you can replace the resistors all year and not get anything. The resistors are protection in case one or both chips short----

Remove all old heat grease and install two new chips and replace the resistors at the same time.

Note that the set may have pico fuses on the power board also.

You need 2 STK392-110 Convergence ICs and possibly 6 2.2 ohm 2watt resistors. You can get the convergence repair kit for your model from www.tvrepairworld.com the kit contains the ICs, resistors and the CD with instructions. The PT47WX42 convergence kit is the correct one for your model.

You will need some heatsink compound, you should be able to find that at Radio Shack. I use a Weller 60-watt regulated iron, but an unregulated 25 -40 watt will do the job, but maybe not as fast. The biggest concern is your skill level, so you don't cook any lands off the PC board, and that you don't overheat the leads of the new chips. I've had some inferior parts that the leads literally just fell off of, without excessive heat. I hope that doesn't happen to you.
There are some low-value (1-2 ohm) resistors in the yoke return circuits. If the resistors are bad, they should show visible signs. If all goes right, the convergence should be very close before any adjustments.

Yes, it does not happen often but you may have installed or got a new chip that is bad--you did apply heat sink compound to the new chips?

Check all the resistors carefully when you do this and double check all the soldering you do.

Let me know if you need help.

Rate this solution as I DO THIS HERE FOR FREE.

SD TECH

Here is the full procedure of how to do this bypass the system, it is not easy..

Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader

If it had line stright acoss screen thats Vertical IC and Capacitors 100uf 35v ,1uf 50v, 2.2uf 50v Check by hori output Blue capacitor c556 561pf 2kv

1.) As far as the coolant goes--it is clear and called Glycol---you just want to look to make sure you have no leaks---none has gotten on the circuit boards.

2.) If the blue will not move in some direction one of the two STK-392-120 CONVERGENCE chips this set uses is bad. There are also a number of 6.8 ohm light green resistors around them that need to be looked at and tested--The chips are on the left large board side by side on metal heat sinks(as you look from the back)---the resistors are in front and left to right around several plugs(convergence yoke plugs)if any of the resistors are white in the middle they need to be replaced along with both chips.

3.) You can buy the pair of chips on Ebay for about 13 dollars plus shipping--the resistors can be purchased at almost any parts place that sells TV parts--these places may also have the chips but usually charge a lot more then on Ebay.

4.) It all depends on how much soldering skill you have---You will need: Two new chips, Solder, a desoldering braid, liquid flux, heat sink grease, and some denatured alcohol----the flux makes it much more easy to unsolder the chips--lead free solder was used in these sets and it can be difficult to unsolder them---when you solder the new chips in apply liquid flux again.

5.) If you are able to do this repair you can save some real money as most shops TRY to charge 300-400 for this type of repair; I have done hundreds of them and here I charge 200-250 depending on the set.

6.) If you have questions or need advice contact me by replying to this posting.

I do this here for free so if this information has been helpful, take a minute and give me a vote here.

SD TECH

there are 12 6.8 ohm 1watt resistors in your model. There could be more blown resistors as they often wont show any outward sign of being bad. It could also be the ACS board which is defective if the Resistors are good.

Yes you need to replace both convergence ICs. They are both STK392-150 you will also need to replace the 6 feed resistors. You will need ( two ) 1.8 ohm 1watt metal film resistors.
( one) 3.3 ohm 1watt, ( 0ne) 2.7 ohm 1watt, ( one) 4.7 ohm 1 watt, and ( one ) 2.2 ohm 1watt . The resistors are all 1 watt metal film resistors. You can get replacement ICs and resistors at the following link with free instalation instructions with pictures, plus free tech support.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/

If you look at the Convergence ICs you will notice a row of resistors under the fins of the heat sink. Those are the 4.7 ohm resistors. Also in that same row of resistors you will notice the 6 yellow picos they are all lined up the picos have 4 grouped together then 1 more on each end of that row or resistors.