Can any one help? My fan won't turn on. I am thinking it is the fan motor & not the circuit board because I hear a clicking response when touching the fan button going from high to low & low back to high. Does that eliminate the circuit board & tells me the motor is burned before I order.
Easy to take apart so instead of paying a high cost I believe I can reassemble myself. I can't believe all the problems with these units & have contacted Sears & told them to look on their web site & to monitor reviews for this product. Almost all reviews are bad & out of scale 1.....5 it gets a low score.
Can anyone help me wiht the fan problem. I am wondering about cost of shipping & should I order anything else while I am it??? Thanks!
My Dehumidifier is a LG brand. It is a big bother to take apart. I plan to replace the fuse with a switch (thermostat). The switch will reset itself when it cools. That way the motor will start up again when it cools. I will not have to take it apart again after installing the switch.
I selected a switch (thermostat) from DigiKey and another from Mouser. The Mouser part cost less so I went with that one.
I have not installed the switch yet. Hopefully I will follow-up here after I do. Please do not depend my doing that.
PS My LG dehumidifier has given me much grief. First the Fan hub cracked. I re-enfored the hub. Second, my repair failed. I glued the fan to the motor. Third, this thermal fuse blew. Add to that how dificult it is to get to the fan motor. When I replace this de-humidifer it will be with a NON-LG brand dehumidifier.
Good luck to you, Mitch
You can purchase a new fan motor. But the same problem will probably happen again. I opened the motor, there is a silver (aluminum wrap) around the windings for the motor that needs to be cut. Careful not to cut the motor windings. Inside there is a yellow thermistor or type of temperature sensor connected between the red wire and a motor winding wire. On my motor this was no longer working (in effect it was an open circuit). Once replaced the motor worked fine. this is the second time in about two years that this problem happened. The first time Sears fixed for about $100 and three weeks. This time I saved the money and did the repair myself. I would guess you could buy a new thermistor for about $5.00 from a parts house like digiKey or National Electronics. You will need to know how to use a soldering iron to repair this.
Just wondering if you anyone knows what thermistor to get to replace this. Pulled the motor apart and found one labeled:
12a 130C <RS>E JET 123 UMI (white ceramic (resistor style) w/ orange writing)I assume this is the thermistor but, am not able to find this online. I bypassed it and sure enough, the motor is running again but, I imagine something's going to burn out this way. So, can anybody identify this any better and/or point to where to find it?
I have a Friedrich dehumidifier (D65C) with a dead fan motor. The true culprit is the small thermistor between the orange wire (ground) and motor winding wire. The thermistor is taped underneath the silver aluminium and yellow tape. I heard about this bad (open) thermistor makes almost >99% of the fan motor problem regardless of any brand name because this cheap c-fram fan motor is NOT made in USA. I am still trying to find out where can I buy this little thermistor. Radio Shack ??
The thermal fuse being talked about in this thread indeed is often the cause of the fan motor not working. Those who call it a "thermistor" are mistaken, it is actually a thermal fuse. A thermistor changes resistance with temperature changes. A thermal fuse blows once the set temp is reached. When that happens the circuit is open. I replaced the blown thermal fuse with one from Radio Shack, it is a higher ampacity at 10 amps rather than the 2 amp original. RS Part # 270-1320, $1.69. Yes, this will allow the motor to run hotter, but I installed an 8 amp 110 v. fuse inline on the power supply cord, which should provide safety.
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If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a capacitor in the compressor circuit to help the compressor motor to start and if the capacitor has failed then the compressor won't run. If the compressor doesn't run or if the overload device continues to trip, then you may have a defective capacitor. An accurate diagnosis can be determined by a qualified person using special test equipment.
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor may not be running. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator to extract moisture from the air. There is a device in the compressor circuit called an overload and it is used to protect the compressor motor from damage. If the overload has failed then the compressor won't start. If you have verified that the compressor doesn't run, then you can test the overload for continuity with a multi-meter. A common cause for the overload to fail is from operating the dehumidifier on long or undersized extension cords.
If your dehumidifier is not making water and you have verified that the ambient temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then you may have a faulty fan motor. For proper operation, a dehumidifier needs to have an adequate amount of air blowing across the evaporator coils to prevent frost or ice buildup. If you feel little or no air coming through the grille area and the filter is clean, then remove the cover and check the fan area. Inspect the coils to make sure that they are not restricted with lint or dirt and clean them if necessary. Make sure that the fan motor rotates freely and that the fan blade or blower wheel is firmly attached to the motor shaft. Using caution, operate the unit in a fan only mode and observe the fan motor. If it hums but does not rotate or only rotates slowly then it is defective and will need to be replaced. If the motor does not rotate and does not appear to make any sound, it may still be defective, but will require further testing by someone who is comfortable with using a multi-meter and working with live electrical circuits.
Electronic Control Board or PCB Assembly
If your dehumidifier is no longer pulling water from the air and you have verified that the ambient room temperature is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit, then the unit's compressor or fan motor may not be operating. The compressor is the pump that circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator, and the fan motor blows air across the evaporator coils to extract the moisture. On some modern dehumidifiers an electronic control board, often called the PCB, is used to control the compressor and fan motor. The control board has sensors connected to it that monitor the relative humidity and when the level is higher than the control setting, the control board will activate relays to turn on the compressor and fan motor. If you have an electronic control model and the compressor or the fan is not operating, then the electronic control may be at fault. A voltage test, using a multi-meter at the output relays, would be required to help in the diagnosis as well as confirmation that the sensors are operating normally.
Verify the humidity reading with another device. Perhaps the humidity sensor is dirty or bad.
Another possibility is the switching device that runs the compressor and fan is shorted. If it's a mechanical relay, the contacts may have welded together, or if it's a solid-state relay, it's got a punch-through or meltdown in a device junction. My guess is it's a mechanical relay since you mention it used to click on and off and now you don't hear that. The relay may be on the control board, or it may be mounted separately - I don't have a photo or diagram of the inside of your model available.
It gets a little tricky from here! If it were mine, and with my experience - I would try to measure for power going to the motor, but that may involve more dismantling. Dangerous voltages are likely to be present so don't attempt this if you are not qualified to do so! If there is power going to it, then logically the motor is defective. If there isn't , then it points to the control circuitry. In the former case a new motor might get you going again - if you can find one; if there is no power going to it then the fault lies elsewhere. If you are very lucky it might just be a dead relay on the pcb. Beyond that point I have learned over the years that some things are just not designed to be fixable :-( The pcb may have been made years ago in a factory on the other side of the world and we consumers are just expected to go out and consume a new one dehumidifier.
THE FAN MAY OR MAY NOT HAVE OILING PORTS ON THE MOTOR. IF NOT, THE MOTOR NEEDS REPLACED. IF THERE ARE OILING PORTS ON THE FAN MOTOR, TRY SPRAYING SOME WD-40 IN THEM AND THEN ADDING SOME LIGHT MACHINE OIL TO THE MOTOR. THE OILING PORTS ARE SMALL HOLES AT EACH END OF THE MOTOR WHERE THE MOTOR SHAFT EXITS THE MOTOR HOUSING.
Evaporator fan is not turning on - a problem with almost all dehumidifiers... probably on this unit (being so new) it's the control circuitry (in the circuit board) which switches the fan on...
I have the same unit with the same problem)
Save the old one for parts if you get the same new one but I def. don't reccomend buying this unit again. The reviews are bad. The fan is not covered under the warranty except first year or extented warranty. I spoke with Kenmore & Sears about this to see if coverd under 5 yr. Only compressor,tubing & refrigeration system(see inside of front cover for warranty info.)
Sound more like a sensor/circuit board problem to me since fan is turning. I think the signal determins which setting fan needs via sensor assembly to run. I could be wrong. Justa thought.
Can you def. hear the compressor come on. You can look through grill to see fan spin & the compressor makes a clank/clunking noise/ The fan & compressor should turn same time. Good luck! If you got any info. on my fan problem & you have update or fixed your problem I ccould use some help. Check post for my problem.. Thanks! panfan1