Hello, I have a 1.5 ton rudd ac/heat pump

An Air Handler is just a blower. It it can handle more air than the condenser it will never be overworked or freeze up.

RHEEM Used Central Air Conditioner Air Handler RCHL- ...

Used AC Depot https://www.usedacdepot.com > rheem-used-central-ai...

Stock Number: ACC-13265. Equipment Type: Air Handler. Cooling Size: 3 Ton. Refrigerant Type: R-22. Manufactured Year: 2012. Heating Type: Electric.
US$413.00

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

MyRheem Portal http://pts.myrheem.com > 92-20521-44-06_BHP
?WARNING ! These instructions are intended as an aid to qualified licensed service personnel for proper installation, adjustment and.
32 pages

RHEEM Used Central Air Conditioner Air Handler RCHL- ...

Used AC Warehouse https://www.usedacwarehouse.com > product > ACC-1...
DESCRIPTION ; Model - Air Handler: RCHL-36A1GH21 ; Air Handler Configuration: Vertical ; Application Type: Residential ; Electrical: 208/230 Volt-1 Phase.
US$413.00

Ruud High Efficiency Air Handler

Coburn's https://library.coburns.com > specs
Internal checked TX valves are used on the RCHJ & RCHL. Heat Pump indoor coil ... RCHL-36A1GH21. RCHJ-36A1GH21. 21. RCHJ-48A1GH24. 24. RCHJ-60A1GH24. 25. 4. R- ...
16 pages

Heatpumps are more complex than an AC unit. Yes, there is a difference between a heatpump and an air conditioner. Where the real difference lies is out side in the condenser unit. There's a defrost board out in the unit, and depending on the brand and model, one of the wires will need to be changed so that the gas furnace will not come on. The problem with this, heatpumps use the heat that is available from the outdoors and transfers it to indoor. When the temps outside drop below 50 degrees, there's not enough latent heat to transfer, thus calling the propane furnace to operate. Without the addition of the furnace, you will not be able to heat the area properly. The only way to remedy this, is to remove the propane furnace and replace it with an electric airhandler with a heat strip for "emergency heat". The emergency heat term is used when the temps drop below the temps I mentioned above and calls for the heat strips to come on.

Outside temp too low, so outside thermostat and it's settings will not allow the heat pump to work. But insist on the ausilary heat to work instead. Heat pumps usually do not produce enough heat when below 40F outside temp. If you have Gas heat, it may be more economical than the heat pump below 40F. If electric auxilarry heat, it may compete at 32F. Talk to your dealer, installer, or manufacture.

That's a complicated system that needs a qualified technician to service it. Lots of people can install them and they run fine, for a few years. Your indoor unit, operating on 2 heat elements, will feel like its blowing cold air even though its heating, just not so well. And not like you are accustomed to. Each element (5kw)=22.7amps, on average. So 3 elements operating should trip a breaker. Its probably been operating on 2 heat element plus the heat pump. And now you have trouble with the heat pump. If you can't TRUST the guys working on your equipment, try someone else. A second opinion. Normally a 3 or 4 ton unit will have 15kw heat installed, heatpump or not. 5 ton, 20kw. If yours is a 3-4ton, cooling, the 100amp(or normally two 60 amp) breaker should have been installed upon equipment change out. If yours is blowing cold all the time, something is wrong with your heatpump. The electric heat inside operates only when the heatpump can't keep up(real cold outside), the heatpump is in defrost(then it's actually in cooling mode), or if you have the tstat in aux/em. heat. Try a local trane dealer? Of a technician with 15-20 yrs under their belt. A trane dealer should have trane tech support also. BIG HELP!!!

If compressor stops in middle, check the following.
1.Thermostat setting must be minimum +3 degree than your room temp
2. Check it's in heat "mode"
3. Check indoor and outdoor coils are clean.
4. Check fan motor is working alright.
5. Outside sensor and room air sensor is placed correctly.
6. Gas pressure is o.k
7.Check compressor is overheated, even all the above is o.k.

. your blue is probably common and if you hooked it to Y you shorted the transformer or blew the low voltage fuse. Green is fan, yellow is AC, Red is 24volt. Is it a heatpump or just ac? I think its probably a heat pump and your brown is your Reversing valve it needs to be hooked to O on the new stat. If its a heatpump your tstat must be a 2heat 1 cool stat w/ aux heat. Without knowing what terminals the wire were hooked to on the old stat you may have to look at whats hooked up at airhandler( furnace) and on A/C (heatpump) tobe able to determine what goes where on the new one.

Are you referring a to an electric furnace providing the heat, the heat pump providing the heat, a heat pump providing heat usually with an auxillary/emergency electric heating unit, or an air conditioner with an electric furnace attached? If your system normally uses a heat pump for the heat normally, there is an eletric auxilliary heater. You'll probably need to turn it on at the thermostat manually when the outside temp gets below 40 degrees. If you have it nice system, it might do it automatically. If you're referring to the electric heater being rated 8 kw, it'll run using 8kw when you turn it on. It doesn't have the ability to change what heat rating it is. If you're refurring to the heat pump system being rated 8kw, you're probably mistaken. A heat pump might possibly consume 8kw to run the system but that can't be a measure of the system's capacity. Heat pump measurement units are rated in tons, but the system will always run at the same ton capacity whenever it's on, provided it doesn't need any maintenance. Some commercial air conditioning and heating systems have to ability to modify their power output based on the outside temperature, but I doubt you're dealing with that kind of thing.

check the outside drain in the pan if there is a plug in the bottom pull it out.the ptac unit will go into emergency heat and run more the colder it gets outside

ok...where to start.lol ....the thermostat is just a switch.It will tell the unit to run or not run.if you measure the temp with the heatpump running,the air is warmer than 68 but it feels cool to you because your body is 98.6.The unit will run more often and for longer periods when the temperature drops outside for a few reasons.First,your house has more of a load to heat,meaning you have more heat loss because of the difference in temperatures outside and inside.Second,your heat pump pulls heat from the outside air.The colder the air outside,the less btu's for it to pull.If you have anymore questions [email protected] Hope this helps,Dave

YOU HAVE ONE OF SEVERAL PROBLEMS , FIRST AND EASIEST TO REPAIR KEEP FILTERS CLEAN REPLACE EVERY 30 DAYS , #2 LOW CHARGE WILL CAUSE ICE ,# 3 A FAULTY INTERMITTENT FAN CONTROL SWITCH ,THIS WOULD BE MY # 1 GUESS SINCE I HAVE SEEN IT MANY TIME OVER THE YEARS , #3 WOULD BE A FAULTY DEFROST CONTROL BOARD OR SENSOR , THE REASON I LEAN TOWARD THE FAN CONTROL IS YOU SAY THE ICE IS ALSO IN THE INSIDE UNIT AND THIS IS MOST COMMON WITH RESTRICTED AIR FLOW OVER COILS AND SOME TIMES THE FAN SWITCH WILL CAUSE THIS PROBLEM THE DISCHARGE TEMPERATURE IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE TYPE OF UNIT ,TYPE OF REFRIGERANT IN SYSTEM AIR BALANCE CFM OF FLOW MANY VARIABLES IN THIS EQUATION,CANT SAY