Hi i need to cut down ( shorten) sewing machine needles for an old industrial overlocker. they are about 10mm too long in the shank, can i use the abrasive disks or better to get the diamond cut off disk ??

Your gonna need a machine with a over locker on it.

try these links and see if they can help you any

Industrial Sergers or Overlocks SewingMachinesPlus com


Used Commercial Industrial Overlock Sewing Machines 800 526 1184 Quality...


http://www.brothermachines.com/category/65/Industrial_Parts_&_Accessories_(Overlocker)


Industrial Sergers or Overlocks SewingMachinesPlus com

Where could I get a back looper for a Riccar rl-924dr

HOLD needle before you turn needle clamp screw towards you to loosen. I emphasize holding needles a's you remove them because many sewists have accidentally DROPPED needles down into their machines! TURN OFF POWER & UNPLUG! You will have two needles (standard #11 and a #14 but check your manual, please!). Although the needles will be same length, the left one will APPEAR higher when you insert into the needle bar. The flat shank goes to the BACK, more "rounded" side of needle/s facing you. Jimmy

Your problem has been posted against the Elna 2007 mechanical sewing machine - not sure if this is your machine but it shouldn't make much difference. All domestic sewing machines have very similar needle placement.

The needle bar is the piece that goes up and down and holds the needle. There is usually a housing at the bottom with a thumb screw that is used to secure the needle. To change, turn your flywheel towards you until the needle is at its highest point. Turn off the motor or unplug machine for safety. Hold the needle with one hand and undo the thumb screw with the other. Insert a new needle into the housing FLAT SHANK TO THE BACK, all the way up into the housing, then tighten the thumb screw.

Standard domestic sewing machine needles are coded 130/705H and almost all makes and models will use this type of needle. Industrial machines are different and some overlockers/sergers will use a slightly longer needle called ELX.

The important thing is to change the needle regularly, about 4-6 sewing hours is maximum before the point starts to go blunt. If you can hear a squeaking or popping sound as you stitch, this is most likely a blunt needle. Also use the right sized and type of needle for the work you are doing. So for knits and jerseys, use a ball point needle to avoid skipped stitches. For lycra use a stretch needle coated with blue, helps with this synthetic fibre.

For wovens, use a sharp or universal point but pick the right size for the weight of fabric. Sheers, organza and fine silks, use a 60. Lightweight cottons, use 70. Medium weight fabrics use a 80 etc, right up to 110 size for coated upholstery fabrics. There are special needles for denim too as this is a very densly woven fabric so again, a blue coating helps to get the needle through the fibres.

I trust this helps you to resolve your problem.

Lorraine, sorry, I cant see what make or model machine your query relates to.

But generally overlocker attachments for sewing machines are fairly average in effectiveness. An overlocker or serger is a purpose built machine with sharp blades like scissors that trim the fabric then two loopers and two needles (or more) to form the overlocked stitch on the fabric edge. Trying to replicate this with a sewing machine is never going to be that effective and sergers have come down in price significantly for domestic use, you should be able to pick up a second hand one for maybe $200 or so. But if you view some of the questions regarding sergers on FixYa, you will see that people do struggle with mastering them as they operate completely differently to a sewing machine. I always suggest taking a class to learn threading up, how to do a rolled hem, how to diagnose issues and learning how to use one.

Walking foot is generally attached to the pressure foot as normal but has a little arm that you place over the needle bar, this is moved up and down as the needle goes up and down and this activates the walking foot to help feed fabric from the top too, giving more even stitching of thick quilts etc. So you need to identify the type of foot your machine currently takes and then see if there is a walking foot suitable for it. If it is a "low shank" then this one may fit, http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/walking-foot-low-shank-p60444.aspx

Or start here http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/sewing-machine-presser-feet.aspx and see if you can identify the type of foot your machine uses, then see if there is a suitable walking foot. However, it may be easier to take your machine to a local dealer so he can put the foot on and confirm it will actually work on your machine, as where the needle bar and foot are is critical.

Trust this helps you a little.

simple solution could be needle is in backwards or is not the correct needle for your machine. Check that it is flat shank to the back firstly. Most machines take the 130/705 H system needles. However, industrial machines are the exception and usually take a different system needle, often no shank.

If the needle is fine, then the other possibility is that the machine's timing is out, ie the needle comes down to its lowest point as the hook assembly rotates around and catches the thread, bringing it up to form the stitch. If the machine timing is out, then this is often best attended to by a trained technician.

Trust this helps.

for all Sewing machines to stitch the cloth, Top needles and bottom hemming needles timing should be configured. Please let us know the whether it is double needle / single needle overlock machine. and model number of the Machine.So that i can guide much better.

You need DCx1F needles (the F stands for flat shank):

http://www.sewingmachine-sales.co.uk/partsDB/index.php?function=detail&recordID=780

When the thread breaks too often, try these, that goes for all sewing machines
1. Replace the needles,
2. Loosen slightly the tension of the needle threads.
3. The top threads are to thin,
4.The sewing (rotary) hook or looper, has burs,
5. Wrong threading