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Ice flapper is bouncing fridge not cooling either. I tried to understand what everyone else was saying to do but its flying right over my head plz help just got back from grocery store to find it possessed!!!!
This is a common problem and it should be under warranty the mother board is bad its like the ref is possessed or something Ive ran across this I guess 20 times in the last 5 months Maytag has taken care of it but you have to have a tech look at it and wait for parts Maytag will pay up to $450.00 for rental ref. don't let any one tell you it beyond repair This info is direct from Maytag tech line a sepecial number for factory direct techs like myself good luck
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Some models have a switch activated by the lower door or fridge door. If the door id open, the fan in the freezer will stop. That switch protrudes or bounce out when the door is open. Check is the switch is faulty. Check temperature setting for the fridge too. There is a fan that takes the cool air and blow it thru the vents to cool the fridge side. If the fan is in the freezer, check the direction of its rotation.
It should be sucking sir from the freezer and blowing out to the fridge vents.
I have a Samsung rf26xaewp side by side fridge that was built in 11/2009. On the front of ice maker the setting on the left is flashing 88. The setting on the right is bouncing between 88 an 89. I cleaned the back an looked at computer board, there is a red light on. Fridge feels like its thawing. Only thing ice maker will do is expense ice.
This has happened to me a couple of times.The problem is that when the fridge door is opened too may times the warm air of summer will block the cold outlets in the fridge with ice.The cold air comes direct from the freezer and the chamber connecting to the fridge clogs up with ice.What one has to do is completely empty the fridge and freezer,leave open both doors so the the ice build-up can melt.Then after about at least 4-5 hours (very important to stick by this time-frame as I tried a less time,but it did not work.),close both the freezer and fridge doors and switch it on.After about 1/2 hour replace your goods in the fridge.The down-side of this is that you will need the kindness of a neighbor or two to use their fridge to store your food whilst this fix is underway..
I understand you have a concern with a fridge, however if you could post the model number I could more accurately reference your fridge instead of generalizing.
I will say off the top based on your post it sounds like you have determined a fan is not functioning, can you specifiy which one...in the freezer ? or by the compressor ?...I should wait for a model number before saying too much. I'll watch for your reply before going forward and try to assist in any manner I can going forward.
The refrigerator half of a refrigerator/freezer does not produce any cold! The refrigerator is cooled by transferring air from the freezer to the fridge. The fridge temperature setting controls a flapper between the freezer and the fridge. There should be a fan which blows air from the freezer into the fridge (through the damper).
If the ice forming in the freezer is concealing the cooling coil and air can not move through the coils, then the overall result will be a warm freezer (even though there may be ice in one location) and a warmer yet fridge. This can be tested by unplugging the fridge and allowing a complete thaw. If the ice is the cause of the problem, then it should work for a short while until it freezes up improperly again
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according to the led flash cycle, you can figure this out. if you open the freezer door and the light flashes two times, that is normal. if you close the flapper on the left side of the freezer, the light should remain lit, and that means that the optic system is functioning correctly. there is a diagram behind the vent panel on the bottom front of the fridge.
if your freezer can make ice and the ice is dry, the problem is simply air flow into the refig section. A very common cause for a service call that wasnt needed for reefers is the settings. One setting OFF 1-10 usually, operates the compressor. The remaining setting will say , for colder freezer or similar, It opens a little flapper door between the freezer and the fridge section. If you set that one to max or coldest freezer it will actually starve out the fridge section for air ,and you get a cold freezer and warmer box! It happens everytime someone has the problem , its too warm! they peg both controls to coldest! The compressor will coll the freezer sufficiently even if set to 1 and the fridge should be cool too if the setting isnt pegged to coldest setting thus closing down fridge air and making the freezer colder which isnt ever required!
ONE OF THE MOST COMMON CAUSES FOR A SERVICE CALL IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU STATE, THE MAX SETTINGS ARE SET AND STILL ITS NOT GETTING COOLER, ESPECIALLY IN FRIDGE SECTION RIGHT?
IF YOU ARE MAKING ICE THATS DRY THE FREEZER IS OK,
THE PROBLEM 90% OF THE TIME IS THIS
AS THE FRIDGE SECTION IS RELIANT 100% UPON THE COLD AIR MIGRATING INTO THE FRIDGE COMPARTMENT VIA A LITTLE FLAPPER DOOR THAT OPENS OR CLOSES OR IN BETWEEN AS WELL , THUS ALLOWING MORE OR LESS AIR TO MIGRATE INTO THE REFRIGERATOR SIDE FROM THE FREEZER SIDE
THE STUPIDEST THING IS THE FRIDGE SAYS MAX COLD ON BOTH SETTINGS, ONE ACTUALLY CONTROLS THE COMPRESSOR AND DETERMINES HOW LONG THE COMPRESSOR WILL RUN IT USUALLY IS OFF AND 1-10 , THE ONE THAT TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR ISNT THE ONE THAT DETERMINES THE REFRIGERATORS TEMP! THE OTHER SETTING FOR COLDER FREEZER DOES!!!! TAKE THAT SETTING BACK OFF OF MAX FOR COLDER FREEZER AND THE LITTLE FLAPPER WILL OPEN ALL THE WAY , WHEN SET FOR MAX COLD THE FRIDGE SIDE STARVES!, ANY SETTING 1-10 SHOULD STILL KEEP THE FREEZER FREEZING AND MAKING ICE IS THE KEY! IF IT CAN THEN ITS NOT A REFRIGERATION PROBLEM , IT IS A CIRCULATION ISSUE
My husband removed the covers inside the fridge which contain the lights and the cooling fan. The problem was the icing up of the cooling fan (which circulates the cold air) preventing it from rotating also the drain hole at the bottom of the fan was also iced up.
The fridge was switched off at the wall socket whilst working on it. After removing the panel containing the fan and unplugging the connection take the panel outside. A hair dryer was used to thaw out the ice. The drain hole was made slightly bigger to hopefully prevent this happening again.
When panel is screwed back in fridge make sure the black sealing tape is in position also take care not to damage cooling pipes which are attached to the evaporator unit. Defrosting a couple of times a year might prevent this happening again. It seems to be a design problem which im sure the makers will be aware of and modify future appliances. Q Will the makers repair this problem free of charge even if the warranty has expired !?
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