I have a 1990 Acura Legend....I am trying to replace the timing belt and can't get the crank shaft pulley bolt off....I heard there is a special tool I'm sapose to use....Do you happen to have a picture of one? ect.???? Thank you so much for your time.... .. Badly seeking help,
Desiree' Jean [email protected]
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Re: Can not remove crank shaft pulley bolt
Im a macanic for 25 year be carefull when doing what im gonna tell you use a socket that fit the crank bolt use a bar that gonna fit the socketthe bar need to touch the ground go inside the car crank the starter 1 shot but i can tell you enough to be carefull or if you got air use pneumatic air gun with chisel with percussion it should come off that owe we do it
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CHECK SEE IF CRANK SHAFT PULLEY BOLTS LOOSE.IF CRANKSHAFT PULLEY LONG BOLT TORQUE IS FOR 130 FT LBS FOR 1.8L ENGINE. IF YOU HAVE THESE ENGINES CRANKSHAFT BOLT TORQUE IS 174 - 181 FT LBS ENGINES ARE 3.0L 3.2L 3.5L 2.3L 2.5L IF CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT IS TIGHT.THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY ITSELF BROKEN NEED REPLACING.
Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.
You have to adjust the cam or cams depending on rather or not its a dual over head or single cam motor, with the marks on the crank shaft and oil pump pulley. You can get the timing mark diagrams from a chiltons book or off of Mitchell online. The only problem with mitchell is you have to subscribe to it. The timing cover must come off, the crank pulley also has to come off. When you get to where you can see the timing belt and gears you put the bolt for the crank pulley back in the crack shaft and turn the motor over manually with a ratchet and socket about 5 times until the marks on the cam or cams line up with the mark on the crank shaft and oil pump. If your car is not vtec then the oil pump pulley will not have a mark on it. This is something that probably needs to be done by a shop with technicians who have done it before. It can be a little confusing trying to do it yourself if you have never tried before. I hope this helps. What makes you think the car is out of time?
If your having issues removing the crank pulley bolt you can get a special tool from snap on tools.It slides inside the pulley and holds it in place so you can break the bolt loose.Once the bolt is removed the pulley will slide off.
It is recommended that the timing belt be replaced periodically to
assure correct engine performance. Because of their composition, timing
belts wear over a period of time and mileage. To avoid vehicle break
down and possible engine damage, the manufacturer recommends timing
belt replacement at 60,000 miles.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION1.8L Engine See Figures 1, 2 and 3
If possible, position the engine so the No. 1 piston is at TDC.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the timing belt covers.
Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the outer timing belt.
Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Fig. 1: Silent shaft belt timing marks-1.8L engine
Fig. 2: Checking the silent shafts for proper positioning
Fig. 3: Timing belt timing mark alignment-1.8L engine
Align the timing marks of the silent shaft sprockets and the
crankshaft sprocket with the timing marks on the front case. Wrap the
timing belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span
of the belt and the timing marks are still aligned.
Install the tensioner pulley and move the pulley by hand so the long side of the belt deflects about
Hold the pulley tightly so the pulley cannot rotate when the bolt
is tigthened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and recheck the
Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and
tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water
Align the timing marks of the camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump
sprockets with their corresponding marks on the front case or rear
There is a possibility to align all timing marks and have the oil
pump sprocket and silent shaft out of time, causing an engine vibration
during operation. If the following step is not followed exactly, there
is a 50 percent chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180
Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side
(rear) silent shaft (oil pump sprocket) is in the correct position as
Remove the plug from the rear side of the block and insert a tool with shaft diameter of 0.31 in. (8mm) into the hole.
With the timing marks still aligned, the shaft of the tool must
be able to go in at least 2 1/2 in. If the tool can only go in about 1
in., the shaft is not in the correct orientation and will cause a
vibration during engine operation. Remove the tool from the hole and
turn the oil pump sprocket 1 complete revolution. Realign the timing
marks and insert the tool. The shaft of the tool must go in at least 2
Recheck and realign the timing mark.
Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.
Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket,
then camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, make sure there
is no slack between the sprocket except where the tensioner is
Recheck the timing marks' alignment. If all are aligned, loosen
the tensioner mounting bolt and allow the tensioner to apply tension to
Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft and rotate the
crankshaft a distance equal to 2 teeth on the camshaft sprocket. This
will allow the tensioner to automatically apply the proper tension on
the belt. Do not manually overtigthen the belt or it will howl.
Tigthen the lower mounting bolt first, then the upper spacer bolt.
To verify correct belt tension, check that the deflection at the longest span of the belt is about
Install the timing belt covers and all related items.
Connect the negative battery cable.
2.0L Engine 1990-94 VEHICLES See Figures 4, 5, 6 and 7
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the timing belt upper and lower covers.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks so No.
1 piston will be at TDC of the compression stroke. At this time the
timing marks on the camshaft sprocket and the upper surface of the
cylinder head should coincide, and the dowel pin of the camshaft
sprocket should be at the upper side.
Always rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction. Make a mark
on the back of the timing belt indicating the direction of rotation so
it may be reassembled in the same direction if it is to be reused.
Remove the auto tensioner and remove the outermost timing belt.
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the timing belt and sprockets-1990-94 2.0L engines
Remove the timing belt tensioner pulley, tensioner arm, idler pulley, oil pump sprocket, special washer, flange and spacer.
Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the belt.
Remove the crankshaft retaining bolts, then remove the pulley.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket retainer bolt and washer from the
sprocket, if used, and remove the sprocket. If the sprocket is hard to
removed, the proper puller may be used. If no bolts are used on the
sprocket. Use the correct puller to remove.
Hold the camshaft stationary using the hexagon cast between
journals No. 2 and 3 and remove the retainer bolt. Remove the sprocket
from the camshaft.
Install the sprockets to their appropriate shafts. Install the
retainer bolts and tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 65 ft. lbs.
Check both tensioner and idler pulley for bearing wear, and replace if needed.
Align the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the silent
shaft sprocket. Fit the inner timing belt over the crankshaft and
silent shaft sprocket. Ensure that there is no slack in the belt.
Fig. 5: Align the camshaft sprocket so marks face each other and
are in alignment with the top surface of the cylinder head-1990-94 2.0L
Fig. 6: Align the crankshaft timing mark and the oil pump sprocket timing mark-1990-94 2.0L engine
Fig. 7: Timing marks in alignment-1990-94 2.0L engine
While holding the inner timing belt tensioner with your fingers,
adjust the timing belt tension by applying a force towards the center
of the belt, until the tension side of the belt is taut. Tighten the
When tightening the bolt of the tensioner, ensure that the tensioner
pulley shaft does not rotate with the bolt. Allowing it to rotate with
the bolt can cause excessive tension on the belt.
Check belt for proper tension by depressing the belt on its' long
side with your finger and noting the belt deflection. The desired
reading is 0.20-0.28 in. (5-7mm). If tension is not correct, readjust
and check belt deflection.
Install the flange, crankshaft and washer to the crankshaft. The
flange on the crankshaft sprocket must be installed towards the inner
timing belt sprocket. Tighten bolt to 80-94 ft. lbs. (110-130 Nm).
To install the oil pump sprocket, insert a Phillips screwdriver
with a shaft 0.31 in. (8mm) in diameter into the plug hole in the left
side of the cylinder block to hold the left silent shaft. Tighten the
nut to 36-43 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm).
I had a tough time with this not having a powerful enough impact wrench. I ended up taking a tie-down strap wrapped around the pulley with the ends secured to the frame and just cinched it down tight until the pully could no longer move. I also extended my breaker bar with a 3' pipe to get leverage. Crude, but effective for a bolt torqued at 174 ft-lbs.
You may need to get a special crank pulley tool for Honda/Acura. Or you can use an old crank pulley belt and hold it down with a small monkey wrench or something. Then crack the nut counter-clock wise.