When you plug it in, it comes on for a second and shuts off. Seems like a slow blow fuse.

aI dont recommend it but you can try a higher amperage fuse to see if the problem happens. Fuses are really not currently limited, they are there for short circuits, if yours is blowing intermittantly, you might have a connection probelm etc.

hi, there seems to be dead short somewhere i'd unplug all the leads from the power board and plug one in at time, then power up the set to see which board is blowing the power supply hope it helps

regards
shaun

There is probably an internal slow-blow fuse,they will electrically fatigue over time.It will require the cover to be removed to replace it,look for an inline fuse holder on the hot lead where the power cord enters the housing.

i had this problem with my 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo with the brake lights it kept popping fuses right after the ignition was turned on try putting a higher amp fuse in place of the old one that keeps blowing then check for shorts to the starter and check grounds and wires and also the transmission issue check the fluid and then if the fluid is fine change the transmission filter the filter may have not gotten replaced when the transmission was rebuilt and may be clogged or dirty

when i plug up my hitachi 61sbx59b proj. tv.
the green lights in the back come on ,a few seconds after them set tries to come up, you can hear the hv. for a fraction of a second then it shuts down.
Initially ceramic fuse was open but replacing it made no diference,r760 seems over heated,(dont know if connected).
GIL SCOTT

You can try a slow blow fuse, but more than likely there is some other issue in the unit that is drawing too much current. By no means would you want to increase the amperage of the fuse. it could cause a fire.

Solved by resoldering some solder joints!!!!!!!
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Toshiba Model 57H81 Rear Projection TV - Purchased 11-09-2001

Problem: Toshiba 57H81 Flashing Red Power Light, No Picture/Sound, Blown Fuses F850 + F852

Symptoms January, 2009:

• Upon turning on set I got flashing red power light and nothing else.
• Removing plug for one minute and plugging in results in:
• Audible click, steady red power light for 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
• Pushing power button results in steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light, no other set activity
• Removing power cord for several hours and plugging back in made no change
• Audible click, steady red for about 2 seconds then slow flashing red light
• Possible related note: Over past several months occasionally the entire screen would flicker momentarily and at other times be problem free for weeks.
• Fuses F850 and F852 found blown

Repairs Made:

• PD0074 DEF/CON Power Board
• There are two main power supply capacitors in this set. They are C-809 and C-810. One their negative lead on the printed circuit board re-soldered leads and nearby contacts. I’m told that because the factory left out a printed circuit board eyelet, the connection will come loose over time. When I called Toshiba customer service they said there was a known solder joint problem causing blinking red light.
• Replaced blown fuses F850 and F852.
• I actually installed a fuse panel on the inside of the cabinet and routed the fuse connections here instead of ordering the special fuses and replacing them on the circuit board.
• Had to use a 5 Amp SLO-BLOW for F850. Fast blow does not survive power up. Get the red blinking light.
• Used a fast blow 2 Amp for F852.
• PD0073 SIGNAL Board
• Re-soldered Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps
• Re-soldered adjacent pads that looks suspicious

Total Cost to Repair about $10

• Twelve hours of my time over three days to research issue, disassemble set, make repairs, add fuse panel.
• Already owned Service Manual and Circuit diagrams from a different 2004 repair.
• Less than ten dollars at Radio Shack for fuses and fuse panel. Already had wires, etc.
• Some solder. Already owned de-soldering tools, etc.
• Visited both local authorized Toshiba factory service repair facilities. One said repair would have to include replacing Q751 + Q752 STK392-110 Convergence Amps with ST392-180, and realigning set for a total of $500+ and it would be more if they had to order a power board. NO THANK YOU! Other shop said $65 for site visit and $30 to make an estimate that could be applied to repair.

I had the same power problem with my th-c50. In fact, this is a common problem with this model Home Theater In a Box (HTIB). The issue truly is the fuse. All you have to do is take the cover off and replace the fuse. There are approximately 8 screws total to take the cover off and you can do it with a standard phillips screwdriver. Once the cover is off, the fuse you need to change is underneath and slightly to the right of the power input (if the box in on your lap with the front facing away from you). The stock fuse is a ceramic, white fuse and if you aren't familiar with fuses, it looks like a very small cylinder. The model number is T1AH250V. These numbers mean that it is a 1 amp, 250 volt ceramic fuse, 5 x 20 mm in size. The fuse is held together by four metal posts. Bend the posts back to take the fuse out. Go to Radio Shack or your local hardware store and get a replacement fuse with the specs above. The problem that I had is that none of my local hardware stores had a ceramic fuse with these specs, only glass. I bought the glass fuse anyway (T1AL250V) and it works beautifully. Be sure to buy a "slow blow" fuse instead of a "fast acting" as they are more durable. Insert the fuse into the slot, tighten the clamps, put the cover back on and your done! It doesn't take too long. Hope this helps.

5 amp "slow blow" fuse where power cord connects to amplifier has probably blown. 9 screws holds the cover on, remove them and check fuse.