One of two things has happened here.
First: 2-2 is short protection---98% of the time in this set it means one of the two 5 amp pico fuses on the same board as the convergence IC's is blown. They are located toward the back of the set in row of 5--green and look like resistors--should have location numbers on top of board F9A04 AND F9A05.
If you find either open most likely one of the two new chips you put in is either bad or when you soldered them in you shorted pins on the bottom of the board.
If the soldering is good--locate and replace either or both fuses that are bad AND BOTH CHIPS again.
You will not get a new chip that is bad very often but it can happen.
Did you remove the board to get at the chips etc or what?
I have done hundreds of these sets.
Let me know if you have questions and I will try to help you.
If this helped you rate this solution as I do this here for free.
SD TECH
Testimonial: "Your guidance is greatly appreciated and has allowed me the oppourtunity to continue and possibly fix it. without your direction I would be lost."
OK, first rate the solution.
Look, I have been in the exact same place you are right now. All this junk on the internet about these chips is BS. I buy mine from a seller on Ebay--I have bought over 300 chips in the last year from him and yes I had two new ones bad--good company--replaced them for free-a pain to have to do it two times but take my word for this--you will not be able to tell which of the two new chips is bad--
Lots of idiots tell you not to buy "generic" replacements. Look at the number on the front of the old or new chips in the upper right corner--it is the production run number--I have seen chips from Mitsubishi with the exact same number as generic ones--means they were made at the same place in the same production run---the Mitsubishi chips cost much more and are no better.
ALL the STK chips were originally designed by Sanyo--change the fuse and put two new chips in and start again--be careful and make sure you removed all the old heat grease and put fresh grease on the new ones. It is painful to have to try it more than one time but it can happen.
ON ebay select ADVANCED SEARCH, then SEARCH BY SELLER----look for sewsales55
This is Suburban Electronics in Maryland--he has a pair of the chips for about 13 dollars plus shipping and sells 5 of the 5 amp pico fuses for 2.95---you can combine orders with him--usual shipping is 5.00 and here in California when I order it is usually 3 days.
pay special attention to your soldering, and watch all those foldover plugs--change the fuse and both chips again and cross your fingers---when I do one of these in the home I always have an extra pair of chips with me just in case---
I am glad you liked my instructions--I had so many people with the same problem I sat down and composed them based on the way I do this repair.
Let me know if you have questions or need further help.
I got an email today from someone who saw my local ad on Craigslist here and sent me a board from one of these sets--he damaged the traces around the chips and shipped me the board which I fixed and sent it back to him. He installed it yesterday and everything went fine.
Regards, SD TECH
Here is how you repair damage to the copper foil traces--I call it hard wiring. I have fixed dozens of boards damaged by either being cracked or having things unsoldered wrong.
First: with the chip or chips removed clean the area with denatured alcohol or Acetone--with a small clean toothbrush.
Take a good look for any copper that is missing around any of the connections. I use a fiberglass tool made for this--the idea is simple------follow the path of each damaged copper foil to the chips--what you have to do is remove the green coating along any bad or damaged paths. Clean again--then flow solder along the foil you have exposed.
What you are going to have to do is solder a fine wire along the path from the foil to the place where it is damaged. I use ac power cord that I strip to get individual fine wires from. It takes a little skill and patience but when you have bridged the missing copper foil you connect the fine wire to the chips and solder it---hence the term hardwire--you have to replace the missing/damaged copper foil with a fine wire--you solder the wire into the foil path you have tinned and make a permanent connection that way.
I had someone here who was pretty smart and made the same mistake--he had the Mitsubishi model with one very large chip and damaged over 10 paths because he used too hot an iron to unsolder them. We made a deal and he brought the board to me--took me about 30 minutes to repair and install the new chip.
He went home--installed the board and it worked perfect. The only problem with this is that if you ever have to replace that part again--you are going to have to repair the hardwire again.
Hope this helps you---
SD TECH
TRY TO LOCATE THE FOIL PATH THAT GOES TO IT--follow it to see if you are missing a path--one path open and the set will not work right.
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Thanks for the response, I checked the fuses and looks like F9A05 is blown. The set was working with the old convergence chips (original) although it took awhile before the colors converged.I ordered new chips and used your instructions from a prior solution. Instructions were great very detailed. Reinstalled the board and TV powered up initially, then shut down and left with an error 2-2 Do I have to start over replacing both chips and both fuses? The Chips I purchased on line were Mitsubishi does it matter there are cheaper ones from Sanyo at the same site. Where do you purchase the pico fuses? Thanks in advance for your help.
SD Tech you have been very helpfull, however I beleive I have damaged the traces (the area the pins are soldered) around the chips on my board as well while taking the chips out the second time around. one of the holes no longer has any solder around it (looks dark) is this something that can be repaired and typically what might it cost? I did order my parts and received them from Suburban Electronics, they too were very quick in getting them to me and even called me about combining the shipping. You have been a great help thus far, please advise.
SD TECH thanks for the response and direction. I may have miss spoke about the traces. the paths to the chips appear to be fine it is where the chips are soldered in that may be dammaged. I used a multimeter and checked from the pin location following the foil to a solder conection on the board and all but one checked good. Pin location 3 is the one I have that is suspect no solder around the pin location. I tried the same pin location on the second chip location which is good but cannot locate where it terminates. Is pin location 3 an active pin? do I need to repair the solder around that hole?
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