Difficult starting, seems compressor unit has excessive resistance, you can smell the burning, oil level is full

on the compressor end is a plug that when removed is is oil level dipstick. you will need to ad 30 weigh non detergent oil until level is correct by measuring with dip stick. do not overfill, if you do you will need to empty by tipping compressor of on it side.. where did smoke come from . did it smell like oil burning or electrical.

Head gasket probably blown

Black smoke is excess carbon, blue smoke is oil burning, white smoke is water/steam. Is your coolant level ok?

The switch for the starting winding probably has failed shut drawing current through capacitor and the winding even though unit has started. There is usually a centrifugal actuaated switch with contacts that open when motor is near full speed.

Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
The relay works on the principle that when voltage is connected and the relay is cool and under working condition, current passes through the relay to start winding. After a short time, current passing through the relays heats the resistor installed in the relay and causes increase in the relay resistance which causes blockage to the current through the relay and it trips (turns off the current to the compressor unit).
There are different techniques for different models to test the relay. Here is a general technique to check the working.
Physically you can observe the burn marks or burning smell from the component. If there is excessive burn smell or heat from the unit, the unit is faulty. Solid state relay plugs directly on compressor start and run terminals. Relay terminals 2 & 3 are connected within the relay. Run capacitor is connected to relay terminal 3. L2 side of 120 or 220 VAC power is connected to relay terminal 2. Locate these terminals. Please make sure that you have disconnected the refrigerator power. Remove the relay cover (if any) and disconnect the leads/jack. Check the resistance across 2 & 3 terminals. It should be less than or around 100 ohms or so( You get a proper reading ).If it shows 0ohm its short and if it shows infinite ohms its open... We'll there could be multiple reasons for which the refrigerator had quit cooling. Relay is one of that. You need to workout all the possibilities in order for the trouble free working of the unit.

Hope this is all you need to know,

Best of Luck,

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Concerned.

You need to check if the compressor has frozen up.

LIKELY the check valve has failed or has contaamination under the seat. Often these valves are right where the compressor line goes into the tank.The unit will not hold pressure since the compression relief will vent at shutdown.

Check oil level in crankcase.

It could have dirty/faulty check valves. Drain all of the air out and see if it is still hard to turn. If it is easy then, your check valves are letting pressure from the tank back into the compressor, putting it under excessive load. Clean/replace them as necessary.

No.compressor has to be replaced make sure to replace all related o-rings and fill the new compressor with the specified amount of oil.

Generally that smell is caused by an oil leak that is getting on either the exhaust pipe or manifold (doesn't take much to smell). As far as bottle getting low, I've got a 93 that never stays full but only needs coolant in the radiator about once every two months. Been like that for two or three years and has never overheated. I'm sure there is a small leak somewhere, but I'm not driving myself crazy looking for it. Check all hose connections, and look on the ground after being parked overnight...If it's leaking, something will show up. But if the radiator is staying full, just check it when checking oil level.

you can unplug the unit , and reomve the lower aces panel (3 screws along the front bottom of unit) youll probalby see an excess of lint built up in which case you can vacuum it out, and then check/clean and or replace your dryer vent