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If the ice maker mold is empty try adding some water. Wait. If a batch of ice pops out then water valve replacement is in order. If it fails to pop out a bit of ice then the ice maker is bad. I have more information on a page I created HERE
Check the ice maker to see if there are ice cubes in the ice maker. If so, there is a problem with the ice maker heater and / or motor. You may be able to rebuild the ice maker by replacing defective parts, but it might be easier to replace it as a whole unit instead. If there is no ice present, it is likely a problem with the ice maker water lines / solenoid.
There are usually two solenoid valves and tubing systems for these types of fridges. One actuates on demand for water whenever requested, and the other operates automatically to make ice cubes until the ice cube reservoir is full.
Carefully push/pull the fridge away from the wall.
Unplug the fridge from the outlet.
Shut off the water supply to the fridge.
Remove access cover (usually the on the bottom) from the back of the fridge. Follow the tube that comes from the top of the fridge (for the ice maker) down to the bottom of the fridge.
Inspect visually for sources of the leak on tubing and related parts. Carefully check by hand for leaks in areas not readily visible - including the back sides of all the tubing, too. There may be sharp edges that can cut if not paying attention. If a leak is found where the tubing connects to other parts, you may be able to simply remove the tube and cut it back an inch or so if there is enough slack.
It may require that some special fittings and parts be obtained to reconnect and some compression type parts are designed for single use. If this is the case, gather the parts and bring them to a local hardware store for assistance obtaining replacements.
If a solenoid valve is found to be the culprit, due to a crack, etc. a trip to an appliance parts store will be required - unless able to purchase online. Part prices can vary widely , depending on the source.
Once replacement parts have been secured, reconnect after disconnecting power & water supply lines. When satisfied with the installation, reconnect power and water lines and test.
Carefully slide the fridge back into position - taking care to not crush the power or water lines.
The waterinlet valve on the back of the unit where the
water supply comes in can have a slow leak and will cause ice to buildup and
block the fill tube. Disconnect the ice maker line from the valve and watch to
see if it has a slow drip. It doesn’t take much to eventually block the fill
The valve can leak because of sediment in the water
preventing it from closing or low water pressure.
You can thaw out the fill tube and replace the inlet valves.
Either the water valve that opens when the ice maker calls for water (located in the back of the fridge at the bottom) went bad or is leaking and the fill tube to the ice maker gets clogh with frozen water and when it calls for water won't get through, in both cases you need to replace the valve.
Ice cubes freeze from the outside, so the center of the cube is the last to freeze. Ice is pure water, only H 2 O, so as the ice cube freezes, all of the dissolved minerals are pushed to the center. Near the end of the freezing, there isn't much water left in the center of the cube, so these minerals become very concentrated, and they form the "white stuff" – the technical name is precipitate. The hardness minerals that cause the "white stuff" are not toxic.