My DC759 drill was apparently assembled without the bearing clip so the nose pulls out chuck, shaft and all. I purchased a clip but it looks like I need to dissamble the chuck and remove the clutch ring to install. could you outline the procedure? I hate to just start taking things apart when I'm not sure where I'm going. Thanks, Terry
Here is the parts diagram. I hate to say it but I always have problems getting the chuck out of the clutch/transmission without breaking something. I havent figured out how to keep the spindle from moving while I try to turn the chuck. Sorry if this doesnt help much.
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You screw off the collar on the tool, remove the chuck and inner part. The chuck is replaced with a special chuck (no inner piece). The special chuck has a square opening in it's nose that accepts the square end of the flex shaft inner cable. Is is actually a speedometer drive cable, from yesteryear.
Then you pull the inner cable out slightly, if it will, and put the inner cable into the square opening of the special chuck on your dremel motor. once engauged, you carefully screw the outer shaft housing on to the end of your dremel motor.
What you want to avoid is damaging this area during flex shaft assembly. I have had success with turning the output side of the flex shaft, while tightening the outer flex shaft onto the dremel motor. Stop tightening if it starts binding...
Rotation seems to help with alignment of all parts.
This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers
equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.
Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end
of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake
assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support.It helps to reduce vibration as the tub
agitates and spins.You cannot
lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the
washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under
the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some
noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub
support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration
or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become
worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle
stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would
recommend replacing the following parts:
Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:
You will need: Brake Removal Kit*
*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly
and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the
Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury
to yourself.
The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool
required to do it can cost about $100.This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average
do-it-yourselfer.If you've never worked
on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to
instructions with all their parts.
To replace the snubber and brake assembly:
1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt.Slide the drive motor towards the center
pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and
retaining ring from the drive shaft.Remember how these components go back together.There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing
pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs.NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring
you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at
this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of
accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the
brake rotor, stator and snubber ring.(Instructions come with the tool).Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression
tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and
then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and
the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake
assembly.DO NOT forget to place the
brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into
washer.
10. Reconnect all
hoses back to wash tub.
11.Reinstall all tub
suspension springs.NOTE: It’s easier to
start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12.Tilt washer back
and reinstall drive pulley.NOTE: When
placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated
all the way on the shaft.NOTE: If the
shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the
snubber ring.Retain the extra washer
for later use if needed.If the drive
pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the
drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.
According to a couple websites you needed to be looking at parts and diagrams for 1670-1 Starting S/N 472-17152.
The chuck you need is 48-66-1381 which replaces 48-66-1380.
The next serial number diagram that I could find was with starting S/N 472-19512, that too uses the same 1381 chuck.
I believe that the newer ones with serial 472B, 472C etc use the chuck you bought.
Turn in the same direction of the clock the torx-screw inside the chuck to lose this first , if the chuck is working to set a long allen key with the short side inside the chuck and a full batterie place the long end in a vice turn the switch in the left (anticlockwise ) pull the trigger and turn the machnine in the same direction in a strong but short time it must done in other way jou must disassemble the planet transmission .and take out the shaft with circlip and set the shaft in the vice but remember the shaft is a part of the bearing so to not damage it use brassplates in the vice.
The chuck on almost all drill presses is held on by friction only by use of the tapered fit you mention. Make sure both the spildle tip and the chuck hole surfaces are completely clean and dry. Set your table so when you move the spindle down it will contact the table. With the drill OFF, put the chuck on the spindle and press it down on with the table as hard as you can without bending any handles or gears. This should be sufficient to hold it in place.
My solution when the other mentioned ideas didn't work was this: I removed the 7 Torx #20 screws ( a common screw driver will work as well) and removed the housing half to expose the shaft. The chuck shaft bearings and gear lifts out as one assembly. Directly behind the chuck there is a half inch section of shaft exposed. I mounted a vise grip on the shaft (won't hurt it) and clamped the affair in a bench vise. With a 5/16" allen wrench mounted in the chuck and using a mallet I spun the chuck off with a solid smack counter clockwise . Very simple and easy .
Many times there is a allen head screw in the center of the chuck bottom that screws into the shaft of the drill if this screw is missing the chuck will unscrew off the shaft. Many times depending on the size of the drill it is a 10/32 allen screw about 3/4" long that screws into the shaft thru the open end of the chuck.. Sometimes it is a Left handed thread.Check the illustrated parts breakdown for the drill to get the correct part. Hope that helps
Inside of chuck you have a screw, remove screw then tighten an big allen wrench into chuck, short side in, then hold drill and hit allen wrench with a hammer quickly, should break chuck free.
I have also had this problem and it is from using incorrectly fitting bits !! i removed the bit spraying the chuck with CRC and then levering the chuck up with a blade screwdriver and pulling on the bit using a little force !! I found this was the only way to fix this problem . To stop this from happening again only use quality bits in your drill.
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