The flame stays on four about 4 minutes then goes out.At set intervals you can see the ignitor coming on but then dies out just as fast. I have changed the fuse and the two wire thermostat but the problem persists.It all started with the blown fuse.

Hi Frank , sounds like you need to clean out your dryer vents . GOOD LUCK APPLIANCES R EN

The flame sensor, ignitor, and coils all are wired together in a complicated circuit so that the coils will not operate untill the ignitor is out of the circuit and is screaming hot. If the ignitor is open or bad the coils will not operate because the ignitor becomes like a thermocouple when screaming hot. So if the ignitor is working and the flame sensor is working properly AND the dryer will work some and then quit, I would suggest to you that the coils are aged and when they get aged they tend to fade and die when used once or twice. It is an aggravating thing to diagnose. Replace the solenoid coils and rock on dude!

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Hi,

If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about DryerMaintenance

heatman101

That is going to be them coils. The valve assembly has a glowbar, a flame sensor, and a set of coils.
The ignitor and flame sensor must drop out of the circuit in order for the coils to open. The control klixon mounted on the blower housing beside the duct fuse is what controls the heat in the drum. The warmed air passes over the bottom of the bi-metal control and is regulated by that control coming on and off all through the cycle. The flame sensing device has been known to stick and stay open for a long time OR die altogether. The ignitor is like a light bulb, it is either going to work or not )no in between), Yall need to swap out them coils.




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Can you hear the flame come on at all? If you can hear the flame come on in the beginning but then as time goes on it doesn't, you need to replace both coils (solenoids) on the gas valve.

Take the front panel off and watch the operation of the dryer. You should see the glow from the ignitor come on and get very hot, then hear the click of the coil releasing the gas, which will allow the flame to ignite. If you see the flame come on, stay there and keep an eye on the time.

After about 5 minutes if the coils click but the flame doesn't come on, you've just proved you need the coils.

If you have a meter you can check for continuity or ohm out the ignitor to see if that is your culprit. A less likely repair would be to replace the flame sensor.

This tells me that its either an ignitor or flame sensor. You will need to check to see if the ignitor is working by watching it when the unit comes on and if its not then replace the control board for the ignitor or the ignitor itself. If it is coming on then its the flame sensor. Sounds like the ignitor though. I would check that. These go back on a reg. basis.
Feedback is apprec. Thanks.

Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html#noheat

Do the burners come on? If so then yes it probably is the flame sensor if not then there is another issue not the flame sensor. The flame sensor could just be dirty take the flame sensor out and clean it with a piece of emery cloth or lite sand paper and put it back in and this should get the burners to stay on.

Pull the bottom of the oven off. You will see 2 to 4 screws that hold the panel on. The ignitor is under there. Look at the ignitor carefully for breaks. I say carefully as the ignitor is very easy to break.