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main head bolts - 1st step-70NM, 2nd step-70NM, 3rd step-60-75 degrees turn angle, 4th step-60-75 degrees
make sure you use new bolts. The smaller head bolts 25NM. Mains 166Nm, big ends 1st step-30Nm, 2nd step-45-60 degrees turn angle
Did you have an old nozzle to look at? The one that you're replacing? The Miller gun furnace for mobile homes is probably a .75 gal/hr. nozzle or less. You need a furnace tech to look at your furnace if you can't read the info. stamped on the nozzle. It will have a .75, or .65 maybe gal/hr rating and a number for the angle in degrees.Like 80 degree nozzle.
If you match up what came out of it,you should be fine. don-ohio (:^)
The "pattern" for ANY cylinder head is pretty much the same...start with the bolts in the center of the head and work your way out to both ends. Torquing the cylinder head on your 5.7L Vortec engine to manufacturer specifications requires the use of a "torque angle" gauge, as well as a traditional torque meter.
The torque specifications are as follows:
> Step 1: All bolts: 22 Ft Lbs (30 Nm.) > Step 2: Short bolts: Additional 55 degrees; Medium bolts: Additional 65 degrees; Long bolts: Additional 75 degrees
Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.
Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:
Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):
Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.
You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.
Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".
Draw a right triangle with the vertical portion of the triangle representing the 37 meters of the light house The base of the triangle is the distance we are trying to find. If the angle of depression is 15 degrees, the other angle is 75 degrees. This is the angle from the boat to the top of the lighthouse.
so The Tangent of 75 degrees is equal to the side opposite the angle (the height of the lighthouse) divided by the side adjacent (the distance we are trying to find.
solving for the distance we get distance = 37 divided by the tangent of 37 degrees
Looking up the tangent of 15 degrees on google give .2679
dividing 137 by .2679=138,1 meters
Hope this helps Loringh PS Please leave a rating for me.
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