Wavetek 320B Multimeter Calibration procedure needed. Specifically what do the 6 internal calibritation pots specifically adjust. The circuit board has these numbers: MD-HD110 & 33-5205F & 9917. The calib. pots have these numbers: R06x, R031, R021, R23, R45. [email protected]

I found a discussion thread where other users faced similar issues with Rollei projectors. Rollei 6x6 projector focus - Accessories - Photo.net

I have not accessed the manual for this. I can offer some general suggestions based on common troubleshooting steps:

Check for Obstructions:
Inspect the lens and autofocus mechanism for any physical obstructions or debris. Sometimes foreign particles can interfere with the motor's operation.
Ensure that there are no bent or damaged parts within the autofocus assembly.
Electrical Connections and Contacts:
Verify that all electrical connections are secure. Loose or damaged wires could cause erratic behavior.
Examine the contacts between the autofocus motor and the control circuitry. Corroded or faulty contacts might lead to continuous motor operation.
Sensor Calibration:
Some projectors use sensors to detect focus. If these sensors are misaligned or malfunctioning, it could cause the autofocus motor to behave unpredictably.
Check if there's a calibration procedure in the projector's manual. Follow the steps to recalibrate the autofocus system.
Motor Controller and Circuit Board:
The motor controller circuit board controls the autofocus motor. Inspect it for any visible damage, burnt components, or loose connections.
If you have technical expertise, consider checking the motor controller's components, such as capacitors and resistors.
Manual Focus Mode:
While troubleshooting, switch the projector to manual focus mode. If the manual focus works correctly, it indicates that the issue lies specifically with the autofocus system.
You can manually focus the projector by adjusting the focus ring on the lens.
Professional Repair:
If the above steps don't resolve the issue, consider seeking professional repair services https://www.rollei.com/pages/service

Can you watch .mp4 or .avi files? The Youtube video is over 10mb in size, so it can not be sent (gmail has a 10mb size limit on attachments). I have to cut it into several smaller pieces and can convert to another file type (the original is an mp4).

Dear Sir:

There many possibilities: 1( False signal to due flexible cable loose *tight( 2( console display faulty 3(main motor board faulty 4(the pot attached to the elevation motor need adjustment 5( the gearing can sliping 6( Main motor damaged.

Try to RUN the software calibration for easy diagnose and trouble.

See my personal TIPS for HELP.

sincerely. God Bless you.

ernesto cuadra
managua, nicaragua. c.a

That unit has a limited lifetime warranty, so are you sure you want to open them both up and void that warranty? I would send them both back to Greenlee for calibration and specify that they don't agree in the write up, with a known light source. Since Greenlee doesn't make their wiring and circuitry available to the general public, adjusting pots randomly is not a good idea.

If accuracy is extremely important to you, then you might want to send them to a calibration lab for them to adjust them.

The Potentiometer/switch (the rotary knob to adjust the volume) is probably faulty. The original is a 9mm B50K panel pot/switch. I'm on the hunt right now for a replacement.

If I can't get one, I'll have repair it using substitute parts, specifically an appropriately sized SPST switch for the power circuit and a regular B50K potentiometer to adjust the volume.

Look here:

http://www.instrumentalparts.com/crossover-pcb-board-for-alesis-monitor-one--mk-1-and-m.html

and here: http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-15436568105612_2091_46855693

See that 8.2 mfd bi-polar and one of those white ceramic cased resistors???. Those parts feed your tweeter... One of them is bad. You can buy the board for $30 or spend a couple bucks for those parts.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V47-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22WuTsnx9Abs03070dCRY8QE%3d

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xicon/140-NPAL100V33-RC/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UhSjrTM10DE0iKGiddcDi0%3d

Put one each of the above two capacitors in parallel to make 8 mfd to replace the 8.2 mfd and it will work fine. They only cost 74 cents each. You can find the resistors as well from Mouser.com.

IF YOUR crossover is potted in a hard material, that probablly destroyed the caps. The caps would have to be encased in a foam before hard potting as the shrinkage of the potting material would crush the caps a bit and cause failure.

Here it is:
http://www.tequipment.net/pdf/Wavetek/5XL10XL15XL16XL_Manual_Rev_A.pdf

Fuse1 110V 6A - 220V 3A
Fuse2/3 250V 8A

R31 47 ohm 1/4 watt 5%
R30 100 ohm 1/4 watt 5%

Hello YankeeTwidgt,

Here we go you will need a schematic diagram (You may already have one but I thought I would mention it ), an oscilloscope, a TV signal generator (NTSC color bar, RGB purity screens, and pattern screen), and a voltmeter (I would prefer you have a VTVM, but a digital meter with high impedance (>=10M) will be ok).

First turn all of the color and tint controls completely down (This includes the main color and tint and the pre-amp color controls if you have access to them).

Then turn the RGB pots fully counterclockwise.

Once this is done connect the signal generator set to channel 3, and set to the specifications on the schematic, use the color bars, what you should see at this point are bars of various shades of gray.

Then turn the generator to the purity setting and set the pattern to red.

Once this is done your screen should be dark or dark red, gradually adjust the R pot until the screen is pure red and the voltages, and signals match what is seen in the schematic (mark this point on the pot and the return the pot to fully counterclockwise).

Do the same for the Blue and Green Controls (Blue first and then Green).

Once all of the pots are marked and turned to counterclockwise, set the pattern to gray purity, and turn the pots back up to their marked positions, the screen should be gray. switch to color bars and the screen should have the proper colors.

This is a course adjustment, and you will have to do a fine adjustment using the schematic, and the test tools, but this will put you way into the ball park.

The reason these pots are not talked about in gray scale adjustments is because they usually don't have to be touched. That's why it is important to get them back to specification using the voltmeter and oscilloscope to set the signals up properly.


I wish you success,

Shuttle83