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Anonymous Posted on Nov 24, 2009

Miele Premier Dishwasher will not fill with water

Hi,
I have a 2nd hand dishwasher.
I've cleaned the machine according to the operating manual; filled it with salt and rinse aid; matched the salt level with local water hardness and tried it; checked the hoses; checked the inlet filter and supply. Inevitably, there are some problems:-
1. Often (but not always) the machine fails to fill up. It completes the cycle including drying) but there is no evidence of any water being involved (An upright cup left in the machine remains empty)
2. The detergent compartment mostly fails to open. I've checked the solenoid and it works just fine. It may be linked to failure to fill with water.

Looking through various posts it seems this might be a sticking float valve but I cannot find out how to access the float value. There is a raised section in the middle of the floor of the washer which looks to be the right height to have water trickle in and trip a float to stop the machine filling. However, I cannot see how to get the top off check and if necessary free up the float.

Thanks for any advice on this or any other possible cause of the problem


Hi,
I have a 2nd hand dishwasher.
I've cleaned the machine according to the operating manual; filled it with salt and rinse aid; matched the salt level with local water hardness and tried it; checked the hoses; checked the inlet filter and supply. Inevitably, there are some problems:-
1. Often (but not always) the machine fails to fill up. It completes the cycle including drying) but there is no evidence of any water being involved (An upright cup left in the machine remains empty)
2. The detergent compartment mostly fails to open. I've checked the solenoid and it works just fine. It may be linked to failure to fill with water.

Looking through various posts it seems this might be a sticking float valve but I cannot find out how to access the float value. There is a raised section in the middle of the floor of the washer which looks to be the right height to have water trickle in and trip a float to stop the machine filling. However, I cannot see how to get the top off check and if necessary free up the float.

Thanks for any advice on this or any other possible cause of the problem

  • 11 more comments 
  • Anonymous Nov 27, 2009

    Hi RogrRabbit

    Thanks for the thought. So I poked about a bit but it seems quite hard to get at the fill valve. And I thought it might also be the AquaStop inlet valve. So I set the program to Universal and 'had another go'
    And water entered the machine correctly (level seems a little low but I can try the adjustment)

    I'll try again when it finishes its cycle and see if it still works

    Does this invalidate the fill valve suggestion or otherwise change your view on what it might be?

    Thanks for your advice.


  • Anonymous Nov 27, 2009

    OK so I tried again and this time got no fill at all.
    So your diagnosis of a faulty fill valve sounds possible. Given that the valve works intermittently, how can I confirm this?

    I presume I need to remove the access panels, start the machine, wait for the fault and then test for voltage and for continuity through the valve?

    TFAI




  • Anonymous Nov 27, 2009

    How would I recognise the fill valve to test it?

  • Anonymous Nov 28, 2009

    Sorry to hear about the glitch - nothing to do with me I suspect. Mostly I type into notepad and paste just in case!!


    I start an economy wash cycle and I can see water entering the flat plastic container inside the RH panel. The right quantity of water is pumped in, the wash cycle completes satisfactorily and the water is pumped out. This seems to suggest that all valves, filters etc can work properly (which I think rules out blockages).

    Then it gets to the interim rinse cycle and no water is taken in. I can see water in the clear flat plastic container but it doesnt move. Also the DW makes a rather unpleasant noice - bit like a rusty hinge being opened but not as high pitched.

    Also no water is taken in on the final rinse cycle

    If I then go back to try a wash (as at the beginning) and repeat the wash, no water is taken in.

    Its almost as if moving the DW around frees up something and then it works once and sticks

    Any thoughts?

    PS I am now away until Monday evening (30th) so will be unable to report anything until Tuesday

  • Anonymous Nov 28, 2009

    Then apologies - I did not know I had given you a bad review. Certainly not meant.

    And I have no idea how to change it?! or even provide "2 thumbs up" whatever that is.



    As you can see, I have added a few comment.

    Recently: I start an economy wash cycle and I can see water entering the flat plastic container inside the RH panel. The right quantity of water is pumped in, the wash cycle completes satisfactorily and the water is pumped out. This seems to suggest that all valves, filters etc can work properly (which I think rules out blockages).

    Then it gets to the interim rinse cycle and no water is taken in. I can see water in the clear flat plastic container but it doesn't move. Also the DW makes a rather unpleasant noice - bit like a rusty hinge being opened but not as high pitched.

    Also no water is taken in on the final rinse cycle

    If I then go back to try a wash (as at the beginning) and repeat the wash, no water is taken in.

    Its almost as if moving the DW around frees up something and then it works once and sticks

    Any thoughts?

    PS How would I recognise a "fill valve" in order to test it?

    PPS I am now away until Monday evening (30th) so will be unable to report anything until Tuesday



  • Anonymous Dec 02, 2009

    OK - so I have tried and failed to find the "fill valve".
    Looking at the operation of the machine, water intake is controlled initially by an 'aquastop' valve (grey electrically powered box sited in the inlet pipe) and I suspect this is what others have called the 'fill valve'.

    Water then flows into a slim clear plastic container on the RH side of the machine where there are various offtake points.

    There is also a 'pressure switch' which is linked by a rubber tube to the bottom of the area that holds water. This switch appears to work (you blow in it and it goes click and the contacts change from closed to open circuit)

    Amazingly it seems that if you tip the machine forward onto its front door and then straighten it up, it will fill OK. If I do NOT do this between the wash and the first rinse, it does NOT fill with water. When I did it between the wash and the first rinse, it did fill with water.

    Bizzarre or what?!

    Any suggestions

  • Anonymous Dec 02, 2009

    OK - so I have tried and failed to find the "fill valve".
    Looking at
    the operation of the machine, water intake is controlled initially by
    an 'aquastop' valve (grey electrically powered box sited in the inlet
    pipe) and I suspect this is what others have called the 'fill valve'.

    Water then flows into a slim clear plastic container on the RH side of the machine where there are various offtake points.

    There
    is also a 'pressure switch' which is linked by a rubber tube to the
    bottom of the area that holds water. This switch appears to work (you
    blow in it and it goes click and the contacts change from closed to
    open circuit)

    Amazingly it seems that if you tip the machine
    forward onto its front door and then straighten it up, it will fill OK.
    If I do NOT do this between the wash and the first rinse, it does NOT
    fill with water. When I did it between the wash and the first rinse, it
    did fill with water.

    Bizzarre or what?!

    Any suggestions ?

    PS Soap cup seems to have gone away


  • Anonymous Dec 04, 2009

    Hi charlymonty

    A really great set of links - thanks

    However: My dishwasher is a Miele and does not have a float of the sort pictured and I cannot find anything similar (see earlier description). There must be a switch somewhere that tells the machine when it has enough water but I cant find it. This is irritating as the fact that I can make it fill by tilting it suggest to me some phisical sticking of a valve somewhere

    Nor does it have a fill valve as described. Filling is controled by this grey box in the inlet line and it works fine - when it works.

    Any suggestions as to the location of a float switch (or its equivalent) on a Miele G 660?

    PS I'd love to rate the info you provided highly but I can see how to do that as it didn't fix the problem?


  • Anonymous Dec 08, 2009

    SOLVED

    Finally found it

    It seems that the connector joining the wire from the aquastop valve (what I think others call the Fill Valve) to the rest of the electrics was loose/faulty. Fiddling around in that area, plugging, unplugging the connector, and a bit of bending of the contacts and everything now works fine.

    Thanks to all those that participated.



  • Anonymous Dec 08, 2009

    The solution was most helpful and, while not exactly right, pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to correct the fault

  • Anonymous Dec 08, 2009

    The solution was most helpful and, while not exactly right, pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to correct the fault,
    See my last post for more detail.

  • Anonymous Dec 08, 2009

    The solution was most helpful and, while not exactly right, pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to correct the fault,
    See my last post for more detail.

  • Jmnum
    Jmnum Jul 27, 2019

    Hello Rincewindwiz, I have the same problem on the same dishwasher. However your solution doesn’t seem to work. Did you do anything else? Thanks a lot!

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  • Posted on Dec 02, 2009
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Click on this link directly to check out how fill valve looks http://www.applianceaid.com/images/fillvalve.JPG you will have to remove the access panels to reach the fill valve click on this link to get more instructions http://www.applianceaid.com/dishaccess.html --------- This is often the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned. -------- also click on this link directly to get all types of troubleshooting instructions http://www.applianceaid.com/dish.html -------- This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

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  • Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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The fill valve is where the water supply hose is attached to your washer.

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  • Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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Hi,

The reason for Failure to fill the water is Either of these :-

Water-inlet valve

The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.

Float switch

The float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it.
Now, regarding your second issue, Detergent Cup didn't Open, there might be other reasons as well. 3 of them are :-

Timer

On many dishwashers, a plastic actuator arm mechanically links the timer to the detergent cup. When the timer reaches the proper time in the cycle, the timer activates a lever that opens the detergent cup. If the linkage is broken or defective, the cup stays closed after you've closed it. Check the link and repair or replace it, as necessary.

Bi-metal switch or wax motor

A bi-metal switch is a simple electrical device that deforms when electricity is applied to it. The degree of this deformation can be engineered to concise standards. The timer energizes the bi-metal switch inside your dishwasher door--directly behind the detergent cup--when the detergent cup should open. When energized, the bi-metal switch deforms away from the detergent cup latch, which opens the detergent cup. If the bi-metal switch is defective, it may not deform enough to open the cup. If that happens, you need to replace it. On some dishwashers, the bimetal switch is wired through the heating element or motor circuit. If the element is broken (or open), or if the motor is drawing low current because of a low-fill situation, the bi-metal switch doesn't open properly. Newer dishwasher models use a wax motor instead of a bi-metal switch. It's a sealed unit with wax that heats up and pushes a piston through to open the door. The wax motor, controlled by the timer, mechanically opens the door.

Detergent cup, itself

The detergent cup itself can become clogged with old dried detergent that prevents it from opening. Sometimes just cleaning the cup takes care of the problem. If not, you probably need to replace the entire cup assembly.

Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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Hi, I started to answer this question to hep you and was cut off? Was almost done. Lets do this again. You need to get to the back of this unit and where the water lines come in, you need to turn off the water under the sink. Remove the line at the D. washer, and there should be a screen that collects water deposits, sediment and so on.I have seen the plugged solid. You can also check to see if the fill solenoid is working as this is it, where the water line connects.Keep your hand on it through the fill cycle to see if it stays on. If it shuts off way to soon, replace it. They do go out often.You say you checked the inlet filter? If the solenoid shuts of to soon, replace it. I would pull it anyway, to see what may be jammed inside it.The soap cup sounds like old soap around the mechanism.Try cleaning it by removing the front panel.I hope this solves you're problems or gives you some more direction to go in.Keep me posted, Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

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This sounds like the fill valve. You can test the fill valve coil for continuity with a ohm meter, no needle movement = bad fill valve. You can also test the fill valve for 120 volts at the fill valve with a volt meter, power there and no fill = bad fill valve. No 120 volts there, you will have to trace power back to find the trouble maker. Test things like the float and float switch, wires and timer. Fill valves are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting, if your dishwasher fills the first and second fill cycles and then no more water through the rest of the cycle, replace the fill valve. You will need to remove the access panels to get at the fill valve. Dishwasher fill valves also have a screen built into the valve entrance, this can also get all clogged up and need to be cleaned.

Any questions ask.

  • Anonymous Nov 27, 2009

    I would be happy to help but you were fast to shoot down my answer and also give me a bad revieiw. If you want help let me know. 2 thumbs up is a 50% out of 100

  • ramatripathi Sep 17, 2010

    I've a similar problem. can you help me

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