Can I run video on Cat6 in the same conduit as the 12VDC or 24V AC camera power on 16/2 cable? how about video on fiber in same conduit as 16/2 low voltage power supply? Thanks!

Cat5 and Cat6 cables are commonly used for network cables to connect computers and other servers.
Cat5
Cat5 supports up to 100Mbps at a 100MHz bandwidth.
Cat5e cable performs half to two twists per centimeter.
CAt5 cable cost is less than cat6 cable.
Cat6
Cat6 supports up to 1000Mbps at a 250MHz bandwidth.
Cat6 cable more tightly and two or more twists per centimeter.
CAt6 cable diameter has thicker around 0.250-inches.

with this Camera, if I am not mistaken, you need a 24v ac power inducter. ( think that is the right name ). It will put the power in the coax that will feed the camera. Yes both video and power can be carried on the same wire at the same time.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/What-are-the-Different-Types-of-Ethernet-Cables-/10000000177629325/g.html

Check that there's power available (open or tripped breaker or disconnect). If there's power available, check for 24-28 volts feeding the contactor coil. The low refrigerant cut-out may have tripped the 24v (leak). The pressure cut-out may have tripped (dirty condenser coil, inoperable condenser fan motor). If there's 24 volts at the contactor coil, check the capacitor before ohming the motor. A defective run capacitor will shut the compressor down.

Samsung SEB-1005R isn't digital, it's analog, so the wiring is super easy. All that's required is power and video. Runs on 12VDC and has a video plus output and video minus. Out of the camera the red wire is 12V+ and the black wire is 12V-. The video+ is yellow / green and the video- is grey. The green wire isn't used because this camera has no audio. That's it, so tie the video and 12V minus wires together and that's GND. Video+ is the yellow center tap of an RCA connector, for example, extrapolate your connector accordingly (BNC, HDMI, etc.) and the red 12VDC wire is your power supply. =
g

First you need to isolate the problem. Step one - make sure the video from the cameras is correct - use a monitor and check each input separate. If the video is correct, use one camera and start from input one on the DVR and check all inputs - in other words plug your camera in input 1, check for video to make sure is correct and shows up in the right place, than go to input 2. This way you check your DVR cards. If the video shows up, but in the wrong place - check the settings on the DVR - you might be able to change the physical input in the viewer.Or you might have a bad DVR.......do a search for DVR Doctors in Google - in case you need repair.

1) You need to look at the output current rating (AMP) of this AC to 24dc adapter, this 24vdc adapter is a regulated switching power supply that will maintain 24vdc output up the maximum current rating and also has shutdown circuits if the over current draw is detect and also if the output voltage goes up beyond 24vdc to protect the load (TV).

2) To use 12vdc to 24vdc DC-DC booster, it should have the following spec:

A) The output current rating should be at least 20% higher than the load requires to give its head room.
B) It must have regulated output that will maintain the 24vdc when the input (12vdc) will vary from 10vdc ~16vdc or higher since your batteries will not maintain exact 12vdc all the time.
C) It must have good protection circuits that will protect it self from reverse polarity connections, shorted output protection, over voltage output protection.
D) It should provide AC ripple spec on the 24vdc output, it should be in the milli-volt range (you will always get AC ripple riding on top of DC when you rectify the AC into DC).

These are the minimum requirement for your DC to DC booster, which you need to protect your TV and your motor home from burning down.
I hope I explain it OK to you.

Please leave rating if it helps.

Basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
Please leave rating if it helps.

my experience is that when an IP-cam ins't consistent or not working at all, usually it's a matter of dwrong cabling. for best consistency with IPcams, you need CAT6 UTP or even STP cable, which are more stable and less submitted to electro-magnetic interference...

I've done it, using an adjustable power supply all i needed was 12VDC - 2Amp, the power connector going to the scanner is a 4 pin mini-DIN male, so i've ripped of the cable from the original bad power module, cable has inside 2 wires one black one white and a shielding. Black and schielding are connected together and are going to the minus, the white one is going to +12V

guess what? .... my scanner is working again