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Re: How do I attach the hose to the cast iron burner,do I...
Hello. Yes, the brass fitting goes on to the burner. At the other end of the hose is the valve and the larger connector for the propane tank. Enjoy your turkey!
Regards, Joe
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Would have been easier to advise if you had mentioned whether it is the bath or tub you wish to retain or the tap or faucet.
The tub is likely constructed from cast iron, a robust material not prone to more than a covering of surface rust. Cast iron can be a brittle material that is intolerant to tension and impacts so it is very important to remove fittings in a way that is considerate to the material.
Most taps are made of polished cast brass that has been chrome plated. Removal is usually a matter of removing the retaining nut. The hole in the bath is generally square with a similar size and shaped square cast in the shank of the tap to ensure correct positioning. In those days a tap would be fitted with plenty of putty under the flange and around the square.
Over time the putty sets like concrete and because it was probably smeared along the threads during fitting it tends to make the nut very tight and difficult to move. If the threads have been painted it is an added complication.
The nut should either be split and carefully levered away from the thread or the thread itself must be thoroughly cleaned to make it easier to remove the nut with a good-fitting wrench, holding the body of the tap to neutralise the force being applied below.
If access is good a power drill and a harsh rotary wire brush could be used for cleaning along with careful scraping. If access isn't very good then a paint stripping solution would help.
I bought my fryer in November 2010 and it worked good for that Thanksgiving. Went to use it this year and thermocuople kept shutting off. So I used a brick to kep red button pressed in. What a pain.
After turkey day I removed my thermocouple and installed a direct conection.
I'm not sure about the exact thread size the Brinkman hose end and brass fitting on burner uses. I tried using a 1/16" NPT fitting but it is incorrect. However, I found 8mm threads to be the closet. Use thread sealant and it works great!
I bought a McMaster-Carr p/n 93590A220; Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 38mm Length, 16mm Width, $7.95. and used it to connect the hose end to brass fitting on burner.
Yes this is considered a safety risk so modify at your own risk. No one I know of ever walks away druing use.
I bought my fryer in November 2010 and it worked good for that Thanksgiving. Went to use it this year and thermocuople kept shutting off. So I used a brick to kep red button pressed in. What a pain.
After turkey day I removed my thermocouple and installed a direct conection.
I'm not sure about the exact thread size the Brinkman hose end and brass fitting on burner uses. I tried using a 1/16" NPT fitting but it is incorrect. However, I found 8mm threads to be the closet. Use thread sealant and it works great!
I bought a McMaster-Carr p/n 93590A220; Metric 18-8 Stainless Steel Coupling Nut M8 Screw Sz, 1.25mm Pitch, 38mm Length, 16mm Width, $7.95. and used it to connect the hose end to brass fitting on burner.
Yes this is considered a safety risk so modify at your own risk. No one I know of ever walks away druing use.
Remove the brass burner heads.Remove the Butterfly nut ( in some models just a screw ) and remover the cast iron base.At the narrow end there is a nozzle with a small pin hole which couples with this pipe. Take a fine needle or pin and insert into the small hole and clean. Reassemble and Voila !!!!
The inlet hose to a miele dishwasher has a box on the end of it, and a brass garden hose thread fitting on the end of it. Inside this brass fitting is a black rubber garden hose washer. I have never seen the hose break. Are you sure it is not leaking from the washer or maybe missing the washer altogether? It is expensive to get the hose replaced.. 200+ for the hose and 175 for the service call. the dishwasher has to come out and be turned on its side to replace it.
That is correct. Viking no longer supports the Cast Iron Burners. There is an aftermarket Burner VIKU1 that comes with mounting brackets to convert older Viking Grills that used a Cast Iron Burner to be able to switch to the stainless steel burner. The large bracket attaches to the center tube and has two screw holes and screws for mounting to the rear of the housing. The two smaller brackets mount to the two holes at the rear wall of the housing and create a ledge for the end of the two tubes to rest on.
that is just a compression fitting. Sometimes just replacing the tubing is enough to get a bit on it. If not you should be able to get another fitting from an indstrial supplier.
The spark plug blew out because it was not installed correctly and was loose. Install a new plug and do it very carefully as there may be carbon in the treads the plug screws into. Screw it in until you feel it getting tight and then turn it back. Keep turning in and out until it fully seats. Always follow the vehicle manufacturer torque recommendations, but as a general rule 14 mm plugs with a gasket style seat should be tightened to 26 to 30 ft.lbs. in cast iron heads, but only 18 to 22 ft.lbs. in aluminum heads. Likewise, 18 mm plugs with gasket style seats should be tightened to 32 to 38 ft.lbs. in cast iron heads but only 28 to 34 ft.lbs. in aluminum heads. For taper seat spark plugs, 14 mm plugs should be tightened to 7 to 15 ft.lbs. in both cast iron and aluminum, while 18 mm taper seat plugs should be tightened to 15 to 20 ft.lbs. in both types of heads.
There are aftermarket cast iron burners available for approx $64.95. Otherwise, the OEM burner is a Dynachrome which is a chrome plated cast iron that is almost $300. I do not believe that the cast stainless is still available.
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