I recently had my refrigerator moved to storage, then to my new home and now it won't get cold at all. Is it possible that during the move that the coolant leaked out?
Hi. Make sure all your fans are working. When checking fans, open the door and push the light button in. Some models the fan stops or dampers close when the doors are opened. Put your hand in front of the vent and see if you feel air. Do the same in the refrigerator and freezer. If you feel air from both, check and see of the compressor is running. There is a fan next to the compressor and should be running when the compressor is running. You have a motherboard behind a cover on the back of your refrigerator that controls all of these functions. It could be defective. Motherboard failure is common as well as compressor and evaporator motor failure. Fan Motor failure is common for refrigerators in storage for a long period of time. The motors are weak and can't start. This goes for all new refrigerators. I sell refrigerator items on Ebay as username, themackshack. Good Luck, Mack
SOURCE: Refrigerator does not produce ice or water.
If you have both ice and water stopping you have a water supply issue.
Water enters under city pressure through an eighth inch supply line.
Start simple and work from there.
If the fridge was moved the line can get kinked. Slide the fridge out and check you have water to it. You can loosen the supply line connection just a little and you should see water leaking. If not it is a plumbing issue in the house. Most likely a the supply line is kinked or possibly someone closed the shutoff valve to the fridge.
OK so we have water to the fridge.
Water comes in and connects to a water filter and then to the door.
If the filter is badly clogged it can cause low pressure to the door and that would cause the problem. Check the filter.
If no go still then check where the water is stopping.
Remove the from cover from under the unit. That is the plastic grate at the bottom of the fridge. It will just pull off but be gentle and take your time so as not to break anything.
Water supply will run through a clear plastic hose. It runs to the filter then to the bottom of the freezer door and up through the door.
You can sometimes see where the water has stopped and clear or replace parts as needed.
There is a connection just before entering the door from the filter. You can loosen that to see if you have water to that point.
If you have water past the filter the problem is in the ice maker and water supply inside the freezer door. Water can leak here, expand, and crack plastic parts easily.
If there is water to the door then you need to dig into that. This gets a little more complex to describe but in short take the ice maker out and check for water supply or broken parts. The problem is probably before the ice maker as your water in the door is not working. This indicates it is not just the ice maker.
Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Kenmore 795-71309 refrigerator has a
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
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