So I go to turn on the car and I hear pop pop pop pop. All 8 of the high speed switchers on the amp popped. I have replaced them and now the amp fault light turns on, then off, then off, then off. Any idea what else is wrong. Or better yet, schematics?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
check your settings on your stereo and the amp make sure you have changed to 1 ohm on the amlifier for a briged connection to a subwoofer and change from lpf to hpf on the amp there should be a switch.
this could just be a bad earth inside the head light when on high beam it earths out through the indecator and this pops the fuse as its pulling to many amps lighting the indecator as well! check all earth joints and use petroleum jelly on all joints when there is only 12 volts it dont take much of a dirty joint to stop it from working
turn on the amp and you know that the amp is good and you hear nothing
1. paralell wiring on speakers that are the wrong impedance very often will silence speakers to a eternal sleep along with that amp.
2. 4 ohm speakers mistaken for 2 ohm and are 8 ohm speakers mistaken for 4 ohm, the amp sees this load and it causes a overload on either side of the amp internal filter
( that's what makes the "pop sound") amp pops inside, literally makes a "pop" sound
you get a no sound
first off nothing should pop when turned off next it could be a grounding problem external or internal or worse an audio output problem take a volt meeter and turn key to on check the ground and positive on the amp should read 12 to 14 volts do same with ground and remote wire if these both read correct remove the back set your meeter to the diode setting the audio outputs are usually the larger ones but sometimes not take your leads and touch out side legs then to the outside to center try each one every way you can switching leads if at any time the buzzer stays on or goes to flat 0 then that output is bad if all check good i would go through the car making better connections and cleaning up any wires that might seem to be faulty maybe even replace your RCA cables im running 18 speakers and 8 amplifiers in my car and i have done this several times :( but i don't pop unless something is wrong hope this helps
Most amps come with a soft start up that illiminates this problem... Im guessing that your amp does not have this feature and thats why you hear it. Read the manual and see if it states anythign about this.