WHAT IS A DEFROST TIMER? - GE Profile PDS22MHR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

To test the defrost timer:

1. Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Step 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. ...
3. Step 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. ...
4. Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

https://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-refrigerator5.htm

Hi,

During this time of defrost you manually advanced into, Did the heater turn off them self? If they did the defrost thermostat does work, if the heaters stayed on the entire time (1hr) than the thermostat needs to be replaced as well as the timer. The thermostat is a cut off device to prevent the over heating of the freezer and liner (safety device). Think of a defrost timer as an egg timer, this timer runs regardless of function just advances like a clock. The thermostat turns off the heaters when they reach a temp rather then time. I hope this answered your question, good luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Lets begin by placing defrost timer into forced defrost. The defrost timer is inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel above the top shelf. Click Here=> 215846602 Defrost Timer

Try turning the timer clockwise slowly until you hear compressor and fans stop. Allow to remain here for 30 minutes. The timer if good should come out of defrost itself but if not it is a clear indication that the timer be replaced. You also should hear a crackling or sizzle coming from the freezer with door open. Also water should drain down to a condenstate tray below refrigerator into a tray that compressor fan warms to return back into air inside your home. If not timer causing the ice blocking airflow then we have the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to examine. They are located behind the rear panel inside freezer The=> 5317842502 Defrost Heater


And also the Defrost Thermostat=> 216872200 Defrost Thermostat

Testing the defrost heater can be found here=> 5317842502 defrost Heater Testing
I have laid these parts out as the timer being the most likely reason for warm temps in fresh food and freezer. If you have any questions I will be here to answer them for you, If helpful please rate, Thank You, Sea Breeze

Hello there,
Defrost timer is what is set automatically by the defrost unit consisting of the defrost thermostat, defrost heater and the defrost timer. It is the timer that sets the routine timing of self defrost in the refrigerator.
If the defrost timer goes bad, it will stop the defrosting cycle of the refrigerator.
HERE ARE SOME TIPS ON HOW TO TEST AND REPLACE YOUR DEFROST TIMER. http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523722-test_defrost_timer http://www1.fixya.com/support/r10523742-replace_defrost_timer
Hope this helped. All the best Elect_Comp

A DEFROST TIMER is a cycling device, it times the frequency and duration that the defrost heater coils melt the ice that builds up around the evaporator coils. If ice is allowed to build up, air will not be able to freely flow past them - resulting in reduced efficiency and sometimes a drastic warming of the cooling unit.



Most of the time, the defrost timer is in the cooling mode, allowing the compressor to activate when the thermostat signals it to. The remaining part of the cycle (usually less than 30 minutes)the timer is in defrost mode. In this mode, it signals the defrost heaters to melt the ice build up on the coils. This defrost action is limited by the defrost thermostat. If your DETROST TIMER go to bad, one symptom would be if your refrigerator is not cooling. Although there are many causes of this symptom, A stuck defrost timer can be one of them. The timer can get stuck in cooling (compressor activated) or defrost mode (defrost heaters activated) for usually two reasons:
- The timer motor can fail for one.
- The gears can also become locked up.

No matter what the reason is or which mode the defrost timer gets stuck in, the refrigerator can stop cooling. When the refrigerator is stuck in defrost mode, the compressor no longer comes on to cool the unit. If the timer gets stuck in cooling mode, the evaporator coils never get a chance to defrost, causing ice build-up to the point where there is a complete blockage of airflow past the coils.

The defrost timer can also cause the refrigerator to stop cooling due to failure of the internal switch which activates either the compressor or heater coils. Finally, when doing any repair on a refrigerator, check the condenser coils for dust buildup and clean accordingly.

According woth yur brand and model, look the part replacement in this link: partselect.com/refrigerator+test-defrost-timer+repair.

Good luck.

When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor

Defrost thermostat:
During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a closed circuit again. A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire.
The defrost thermostat is located near the defrost heater and is wired in series. It is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer, behind the freezer back wall of a top freezer or under the floor. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer. At room temperature the defrost thermostat is an open circuit ( no continuity ) and when cooled down the defrost thermostat closes the circuit ( has full continuity ) to allow the defrost heater to come on.

Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.

Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.

*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.

Defrost heater:

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely bad and should be replaced. Proper power ( careful!! ) to the heating element ( 110-120 volts AC ) and the defrost heater does not come on = bad defrost heater.

Some newer refrigerators have been using an electronic board instead of an mechanical defrost timer. The adaptive defrost control does the same job as the defrost timer ( shuts off the refrigerator cooling items and redirects the power to the defrost heater for the defrosting cycle, then redirects the power to the compressor and fans to come back on when the defrost cycle is over ). This adaptive defrost system is a bit different when testing, normally speaking if the defrost heater and defrost thermostat ohm ok, we replace the adaptive defrost board.

1)check the temperature setting.it should be set on normal mode. 2) check if the ventilation in the fridge are blocked .there are two possibilities you will have to check 1)the defrost timer 2)the evaporator coil. How a common frost free defrost cycle works and the main parts. When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor. Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
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the evaporator coils are located at the inner side of the freezer section.if the ice gets collected in the coil and the evaporator fan stops running then the inner system of refrigerator will get over cool and this problem happens.
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now to solve the issue .if to check evaporator coil is faulty or not there is a system.just unplug the unit from main power outlet then wait for 24 hours.then replug the power cord in the main power outlet.in 24 hours all the ice collected in between the coil and anywhere will get melted and then check out.if it works properly the problem was ice in coils.but if same problem then defrost timer needs replacement,you can get new timer friom
--- www.repairclinic.com
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This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Hi

The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.

Please do rate the solution as FixYa and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

hi If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:
Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

http://www.us1internet.com/FRS24XGCW2_141846.htm

The above URL will take you to an exploded view of the controls. Look at number 23 which will be located behind toe plate below door on the left side. That is the defrost timer. Rotate the clutch head screw Clockwise SLOWLY until you hear a loud click. That is the defrost timer starting the defrost. If the unit restarts after 18-22 minutes and defrost does not take place you problem is most likely the defrost thermostat.