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I have a Kenmore Adavantage Dryer - Model #110-96588210. Dryer runs but no heat at any temperature setting. I have the toe plate off and looking for the thermal fuse that is connected to two blue wires (according to the diagram on the toe plate). Found two blue wires connected to a white plastic plate that is shaped somewhat circular and flate with a black strip connecting the two blue wires. Not sure if this is the fuse but looks okay. HELP! Thanks! Alvin
The only way you can check if it is ok is to use a tester or continuity tester, it should have a resistance when you check it. you cannot just concluded by just looking at it, fuse are pretty quite decieving.
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If your Kenmore dryer has stopped producing heat, chances are the problem lies with the dryer's thermal fuse. A fire-prevention safety device, the thermal fuse is designed to disrupt the flow of electricity to the dryer's heating mechanisms if the dryer temperature reaches a predetermined maximum. Once activated, the thermal fuse must be replaced to restore the heat to your dryer. In Kenmore brand residential dryers, the thermal fuse will be located in one of two places.
Instructions
Front Panel Access 1 Unplug your Kenmore dryer from its power source. Make sure that the appliance is unplugged before proceeding. 2 Use a flathead screwdriver or putty knife to remove the dryer's bottom service panel, sometimes called the toe panel. Slide the screwdriver or putty knife along the top of the toe panel until you've located the toe panel clips. The clips are usually located about four inches in from either side of the service panel. Push down on the toe clips with the screwdriver or putty knife to release. Remove the panel and set it aside.
3 Locate the thermal fuse on your Kenmore dryer. Look for the thermal fuse directly above the dryer's motor; it looks like a white strip with two wires, and is usually mounted off to one side. See Resources for a diagram of thermal components. Rear Access 4 Disconnect the Kenmore dryer from its power source while locating the thermal fuse. 5 Move the dryer away from the wall so that you can access the back of the appliance. 6 Use a screwdriver to remove the dryer's back panel. Set the panel and loose screws aside until you are ready to replace them. 7 Locate your Kenmore dryer's thermal fuse just above the exhaust port. The thermal fuse looks like a white strip with two connected wires.
Tips & Warnings
Clogged exhaust ports are a common cause of thermal fuse failure. While you've got your Kenmore dryer in pieces, clean out the exhaust ducts to keep it functioning at its best.
Take all proper safety precautions when working with electrical appliances. Make sure that your Kenmore dryer is unplugged before attempting to service it.
Check this link ,if you use Whirlpool Dryers: http://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/thermalfuse-dryer-Whirlpool-29inch-electric.html
Your dryer is acting like it has a Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat. This is a Free answer, Please rate me.
Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.
This is a free answer, Please rate me
Getting to the heating circuits is not the same on every model of dryer. Some dryers have heating circuits in the REAR of the dryer, some have the heating circuits located inside the cabinet UNDER the drum and others have heating circuits BEHIND the drum.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the TOP of the unit, you will need to remove the BACK panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the DOOR, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower toe panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
If you do not have a toe panel, you will need to lift the dryer top and remove the entire FRONT panel to access the internal components.
If you have further questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can determine how your dryer is constructed.
The reason to this problem is due to the faulty heating element.
Once the dryer runs with no heat then there is a problem in the
heating element which cannot be repaired,so you need to
replace it.
ok take off toe panel ..take a putty knife and press in about a inch from each corner of toe panel..you will feel the clips...aways unplug dryer,,,now look on the blower wheel housing ..you see the little white fuse replace it...onthejob
Insert a putty knife into the seam where it meets the front panel about 2 inches in from each side. There is a small retainer clip that you will need top depress in order for the panel to release. If you go to searspartsdirect.com and enter your model number, you can find a helpful illustration under the "Cabinet" heading. The clips I mention are listed as item 46 just ot give you a perspective. I would also strongly recommend that you UNPLUG the dryer before cleaning the interior cabinet. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Particulary around the heating circuits. I hope you find this information helpful.
GAS DRYER, NO HEAT. CHECK THE HEAT SETTING FIRST.
IS IT ON AIR FLUFF? I'M NOT BEING SMART, BUT YOU WOULD BE SURPRISED HOW MANY CALLS I TAKE THAT ARE ON AIR FLUFF. SECOND, LISTEN FOR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER. IF YOU HEAR IT, LOOK IN THE INSPECTION HOLE ON THE FRONT OF THE DRYER, OR REMOVE THE TOE PLATE TO VIEW THE IGNITOR. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS AND THEN CLICKS OFF BUT NO FLAME, YOU HAVE A BAD SOLENOID ON THE GAS VALVE. IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT NEVER CLICKS OFF, THE RADIANT SENSOR ATTACHED TO THE SIDE OF THE BURNER ASSEMBLY IS BAD.
IF YOU DON'T HEAR A DISTINCT CLICK WHEN YOU TURN ON THE DRYER, THE MOST LIKELY CAUSE IS THE THERMAL FUSE LOCATED ON THE BACK OF THE DRYER DOWN NEAR THE EXHAUST DUCT. IT IS A SMALL WHITE ITEM ATTACHED TO THE EXHAUST DUCT WITH TWO WIRES ATTACHED.
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