Machine will not drain the tub or spin the agitator. Can hear a buzzing type sound when selecting any function that would agitate, spin tub or drain. Will add water at beginning of any cycle. Currently has water in tub (1/2 to 2/3s full.) Machine was functioning properly until yesterday, when it stopped after filling. Lid switch works, as any buzzing sound stops when lid is raised.

No spin, try these:

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.


Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

The circuit board has a Cycle generator and sequencer that accepts commands when you manually do a setting. When the sequence enters the spin phase a block occurs and discontinues further action. It is not the timer, but the command center on the circuit board. Because the board has many functions, it is like a set of Christmas Tree lights in series, and when one bulb fails, so goes the set. You will no doubt need a new command board for that model.

hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle
The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

make this test and fix it. God bless you
First you will need to identify if you have a direct drive type or a belt drive. The later is obvious if you have belts under your machine it is a belt drive, if not it is a direct drive. Also there are 2 basic agitator types with some variances among them. The 2 piece and the single.

Agitator Dogs
The agitator dogs are in the 2 piece type of agitator. These wear out over time. They also break and can cause noise. To inspect and replace the agitator dog .

Agitator Coupling / Spline
The other type depending on age of your machine use a spline. Newer GE types have a coupling that gets stripped out and the older GE type has a spline directly on the agitater that gets stripped out. You will need to remove the agitator. The dispenser usually pulls right out. This will give you access to the bolt that holds the agitater down. Remove the bolt, then place your fingers under the agitator and pull up. This can take some force. A belt slid under the agitater can also work. Once off you will see if it is stripped or not.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacemente motor coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

I just repaired this exact model this weekend. If the machine will drain but doesn't agitate or spin (you have to put a screwdriver in the lid switch to see), it's usually a loose belt. This time I replaced the belt, but it still would not agitate or spin, and the motor was not turning, just a "buzz, buzz, buzz" when the washer attempted to supply power to the motor. The start capacitor for the motor was bad. Part number 3429938 which runs about $60. Not hard to access once you tip the washer over slightly, just DISCHARGE THE OLD CAPACITOR so you don't get a nasty shock.

sounds like a motor problem, the motor turns 1 way to agitate and the other way to drain and spin

there should be 2 or 3 springs that hold it, they mite have broke, take off back panel an check.

check the belt that spins the tub, you will find it at the bottom of the machine, check if its intact.

plz do not forget to vote if i solved your problem

sounds like you have a broken lid switch on the washer, maybe someone slammed the door or placed or stood on top of the washer, a broken lid switch won't allow washer to go into spin mode is a safety device so if is on spin cycle an someone sticks their hand it the machine stops an not breaks your hand.

broken lid swtich

good luck leave some feedback thanks!

Hi friend...
it is usually caused by anything stucked below tub,if its not then if is actualy timer,,,check them both...

thank u.....