Installed a complete Vitasalus water fitraion system. From our pond to our home. The water is still very dirty. Don't know what else to do. Help?

If your Bosch Highflow 21e hot water system is experiencing fluctuations in water temperature while showering, it could be caused by a few different factors. Here are some possible reasons for this issue:

1. Flow rate too high: The hot water system may not be able to keep up with the demand if the showerhead or tap is allowing too much water to flow through. This can cause the water temperature to drop suddenly. Try reducing the flow rate by turning down the tap or using a low-flow showerhead.
2. Water pressure fluctuations: If the water pressure in your home fluctuates, it can cause the hot water temperature to vary. This can be caused by various factors, such as other appliances using water at the same time, or changes in municipal water supply pressure. Installing a pressure regulator or a flow restrictor may help to stabilize water pressure.
3. Blocked or dirty water filter: A clogged or dirty water filter in the hot water system can restrict water flow, causing the water temperature to fluctuate. Check the filter and clean or replace it if necessary.
4. Malfunctioning thermostatic mixing valve: The thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) regulates the water temperature in the hot water system. If it's faulty or dirty, it can cause temperature fluctuations. A licensed plumber or technician can inspect the valve and replace it if necessary.
5. Faulty temperature sensor or control board: If the temperature sensor or control board in the hot water system is faulty, it may not be able to maintain a consistent water temperature. A technician can diagnose the issue and repair or replace the faulty component.

If you're unsure about how to diagnose or fix the issue with your hot water system, it's best to contact a licensed plumber or technician for assistance.

if system is new call whomever installed it and it repaired under warranty. there are several reasons unit is not producing hot water. First thing I would check is temp setting. Again call for service under warranty.

Well I you have the problem resolved by now, but I will answer anyhow. This just happened to me yesterday with the same water heater that you have. My problem was that the flame sensor was dirty and not picking up that the burner was lit, so it shuts everything down and goes into lockout mode. I had a similar problem with my furnace lighting system. It is called flame rectification. What actually happens is the flame itself allows a small current to flow through it, so the flame sensor actuall makes electrical contact with the burner. The control senses this connection and knows then, that the flame is on. If it doesn't sense this connection, it thinks the flame is out, so it must shut off the gas valve to prevent a possible explosion. Take your burner out and clean up everything in there, being careful not to break the small glass bulb inside, which is another safety device. Fine emery cloth of a wire brush will clean up the flame sensor good. Also wire brush the burner itself, since this is the other end of the rectification circuit.

Question is unclear.
What is a vacuum valve?
You posted under electric water heater.
Water heaters are associated with TP or 'safety overflow' valve, water shut-off valve, tank drain valve, pressure-regulating valve, mixing valve and possibly a few other plumbing valves.
Vacuum valve implies that a compressor is creating pressure on one line while creating vacuum on another line. I don't know of a water heater that uses air compressor.
Open following link to help troubleshoot leaking water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

Check the time of day, and make sure it's accuate. Reset if necessary. Add salt if it's low. It's always best to let the salt level run low (about 1-2") so it doesn't mush. Only add 80-100 lbs at a time for best results. This particular softener doesn't keep a water level in the tank, so you won't see any water in the salt area. If there is standing water in the salt area, that could mean it's not working the way it should. Here is a link to the owners manual. It's in PDF format

http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=003674144.PDF

This is proabably not the case but I have seen it happen, Have you checked the outlet side of the filter to make sure it was drilled when it was made. Thank you

depends on why it was installed in the first place...

most of the time these are installed to reduce thermal expansion... "hot water into the cold pipes"

I don't know your system, but I would just replace it. removing it could potentially bring back, or cause other problems we are not aware of, the reason it was actually installed.

Hello aknapton:
I just removed a working aquavac 42 from our home and upgraded. You can have the whole unit if you would pay for shipping.
It worked when we removed it. It was fussy about the standing pilot and had to clean the thimble jet a lot (dirty propane) but it did work. let me know. [email protected]

what you have is called a hydronic heating system.
this heating system is completely isolated from your water heater I believe this as most hydronic systems I have installed circulate water through the furnace to heat the house. If this is true you need only to connect your old water heater cold water supply side to the tankless and, old hot water side to the house system: the showers/tubs/sinks etc. in your home.
my appologies if I have missunderstood your inquiry.

Rachel,

I don't know if you have resolved your issue by changing the T&P relief valve. However, if you have replaced it and it appears to have resolved the problem ... it will most likely be only a temporary resolve. And what has happened, it that the water that was being relieved via the T&P valve is now unknowingly leaking / being relieved by a toilet or some other means.

The reason of the leak in the first place is that the most likely the water purveyor has recently installed a DCV (dual check valve) at or within the water meter location. Not knowing where you live, but we are in NC and these DVC's are being installed all over the country.

Basically, your home's plumbing system used to be an "open system" and not it is a "closed system". In earlier times, when the water heater cycled it heated the water, which cause the volume to thermally expand ... and the water was pushed backwards through the meter and it did not allow the water pressures to build. However, with the DCV installed ... now when the water heater cycles and expands water, with no place for the excess water volume to migrate, it now causes a hydraulic effect within the closed system ... which causes the water pressure to become elevated, ultiamtely being relieved at the T&P ...

Here are a couple of links from Watts ....that will help.
http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_thermexpansion.asp

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/support/support_DETsizing.asp


Locally, we have been on the Cross Connection / Dual Check Valve crusade since early in 1991. We concur that the check valves warrant installation. However the Buidling / Plumbing Codes are not up to speed with truly what is going and how much damage to personal property is occurring with failed water lines ... both inside the home and outside.

Best, Gary H.

Hestand Associates / [email protected]