I have a Lanzar amp - not sure how to hook up to the head end ? any diagrams available. Thanks

Because it's drawing more power than the fuse can handle get a fuse with a higher rating. A 100 app fuse worked great for main power with my setup 760w amp a 15"sub 2 10"subs and a 12" sub. Also my amp had 2 30amp fuses on it one for each channel but I ran everything out of one channel.

If your amp allows it hook the the sub's to the first two channels but bridge it and only run it on 2ohms so you don't blow your sub's

Things to check: Is the wire between the amp and the subs heavy enough to pass 167 amps? 2000 * 12 = 166.66666 amps. Max volts on the subs are 10 volts....close enough. Are you sure you're using the line out on the head unit? You may be over driving the amp if it's anything else.If the head unit doesn't have line out connectors then you'll need to get an attenuator for each channel. Do you have caps on the 12 v power in wires? They'll keep the headlights from dimming and the alternator will last longer if you do.

Make sure that the remote switch is activated by the head unit so that the relay trips to contact making the amp come on.
SO make sure you have the auxillary power to switch on, use a multimeter to check the + 12 volt when the head unit is switched.
If there is power and still the amp is not working check onthe main fuse or the relay drive inthe amplifier.

try looking it up on you tube ive seen a introductory on how its done ..just type in how to hook up an amp in my living room i dont think you will need a battery..lol

did you check the fuses on the side of the amp? put voltage meter on b+ should read 13v, take it to service center to have checked out, may have some prblems inside

If by saying amp outputs you are refering to the RCA jacks on back of the head unit (Left and Right RCA jacks usually labeled FRONT, REAR, SUB, etc...) then you do have options even if your head unit doesn't provide a SUB channel.  These RCA jacks/amp outputs carry the signal (music or whatever) at a lower voltage (and is typically more like DC voltage as there is a ground reference which is 0 volts and signal rides on the positive voltage), providing a cleaner signal to the amp which does all the work.  The wires behind the amp that you connect directly to the speakers is typically amplified by the head unit itself and is a much higher voltage level and varies from negative to positive ( AC voltage.).

You could use the other channels (FRONT or REAR) if available, (a specific SUB amp output cuts all the higher frequencies out, passing just the lower subwofer frequencies inside the head unit).

if you want to strive for a more efficient use of your sub, use a low-pass/SUBwoffer filter (a crossover) in between the Head unit and amp, thus providing the amp with subwoffer signal, (or if for some odd reason you have SPEAKER level sub connections you can use a line output converter which will let you run RCA to the amp.)

Hope this helps u understand why I couldn't just say get a new stereo nor could I just say use splitters on available amp outs.

If it keeps blowing fuses then #1 its internally damaged or "blown" .. Or #2 i would make sure you have the battery power hooked up to the + terminal and the ground wire running from the car body to the - terminal.. so if its hooked up correctly and keeps blowing fuses then it requires repair.. I wish i had better news but thats all it can be...

Go to this website page and see if any of this applies to your problem. http://www.caraudiobook.com/car_audio_amplifiers/car_audio_amplifiers.htm

Check your speaker load. It probably should be 4 ohms per channel. Also, if you are bridging then you must double your ohms load. It may be that your old amp could tolerate a lower impedence (ohms load) than the new amp. Do this now so you don't fry your amp. Good luck.