Fuse has blown and i replaced it under the top cover left hand side but it blew again 6.3amp,it does work with a higher rated fuse any ideas

Thank you so much!

I'm not familiar with that model number but if it is rubber with fingers sticking up then a large flat screwdriver under it and lever it up, bending it a little from 2 different sides and you should then be able to unscrew it (left hand thread I think) with your fingers. Failing that put in extra effort and wreck it off, the threaded part is aluminum and not strong enough to cause any damage to the motor shaft.
If the coupling is internal splines in a hole ask me another question.

Hold the fan still and then turn the top and it will start to loosen the bolt you can see on the fan.
Side Note: If you need to remove the bottom completely then you also have to remove the screws hidden under the rubber feet.

IF IT DID NOT WORK AFTER THAT I SUGGEST YOU TAKE IT BACK. YOU EITHER HAVE A FAULTY SWITCH OR HAD A SURGE OF ELECTRICTY THAT BLEW IT.

Pretty much that is what happened to me. I found that the motor has 2 "thermal cut-offs" (SEFUSE 113oC). If the motor heats up even a little, these babies kill your blender. They are thermal fuses. Once they blow, it is over until they are replaced. To fix this, the motor must be removed. The spline gismo on top of the blender unscrews with reversed threads. I suggest unsoldering the lead wires from the power supply board, and replacing when done. The cut-offs are inside the taped on white cloth insulation on the top of the field magnets near the brush assemblies on both sides. I replaced them (both were blown) with 2 of NTE8242 ($1.60 each, 240oC 15A). These are way too hot, but that is what I had on hand. I thought that the electronics were defective at first, and I replaced the entire board assembly with a small/cheap ceiling fan wall switch /speed controller from the hardware store (600W 5A) for $10. The root cause of all of this is that the motor fan is not working. The airflow is blocked by base. I put small extenders on the feet and now there is much more airflow. Only time will tell if this is an effective fix. etc. It really makes me wonder how it got past UL approval.

replace the fuse with the same specs. if it blows again, there is a short on the circuit.

I had the same problem and I manaed to fix my Cuisinart SmartPower Duet blender. There are two thermal fuses, one tape attached to each stator winding. Both of mine were blown.

In addition, when the fuses blew, it must have spiked the triac. I had to replace mine. It's the black 3-legged transistor looking device with a small metal heatsink attached to it. This gizmo directly throttles the power to the motor under control of the microprocessor. There are some guides on the internet on how to test it.

Also, the clutch was very hard to remove and needs to be removed to more easily replace the thermal fuses. I clamped down the end of the motor shaft to a bench vise real hard and then I used a 7/8-inch open-end wrench to wedge into the clutch prongs which made it much easier to apply torque. Remember that its screw threads are reversed from normal screws so that it does not unscrew during operation. You have to turn it counter-clockwise to unthread it.

Hope that helps!

-Vince

I managed to fix my Cuisinart SmartPower Duet blender. I had the same problem, lights and buttons work, but no motor action. There are two thermal fuses, one tape attached to each stator winding. Both of mine were blown.

In addition, when the fuses blew, it must have spiked the triac. I had to replace mine. It's the black 3-legged transistor looking device with a small metal heatsink attached to it. This gizmo directly throttles the power to the motor under control of the microprocessor. There are some guides on the internet on how to test it.

Also, the clutch was very hard to remove and needs to be removed to more easily replace the thermal fuses. I clamped down the end of the motor shaft to a bench vise real hard and then I used a 7/8-inch open-end wrench to wedge into the clutch prongs which made it much easier to apply torque. Remember that its screw threads are reversed from normal screws so that it does not unscrew during operation. You have to turn it counter-clockwise to unthread it.

It took about 1-1/2 hours and definitely needs to be done by someone who knows their way around electronics. Hope that helps!

-Vince

My IKON 600 Blender fuse had blown. It was located on the circuit board and can be found by removing the bottom of the blender. Fuse is Fast Blow 10A, metric 5mmx20mm. The fuse blew because the bearing in the bse of the jar froze. Bearing # 608-RS. The beraring froze because the seal in the base of the jar was leaking. Solution: Clean seak surfaces, replace bearing and fuse. Total cost of $6 with my labor.

I had this problem and, after seeing these posts, was motivated to avoid paying the cost of a new blade unit. Here's how it can be fixed:
1. Take a kitchen hotpad and hold the blade (top) side of the unit in your hand as you unscrew the rubber gear on the base. This is a left-handed screw, so you must turn it clockwise, to free it up. This should be doable by hand. Be careful, removing the gear exposes a washer note which side is up, and place both the gear and washer aside.
2. With the blades held in the hotpad, unscrew the top nut, again clockwise. This takes more effort, but it will eventually give way. As this nut comes off, it exposes a rectangular post, to which everything is attached.
3. Remove a washer with a rectangular cutout. Make sure you remember which side is up (I think it makes no difference). This may require some rocking to remove the washer from the round-threaded end. It will come off.
4. Remove both blades in a similar manner. Note their orientation, which is important.
5. Next, remove a rubber gasket. On mine, it has a groove which is asymmetric. I don't think the orientation is important, but, again, you may want to note it.
6. What is left is an axle inside a sleeve. There are no bearings. In mine, I had to tap/drive this out. Take a flat-ended rod (ideas: I used the hex-shaped post end of a nut socket. An old drill bit you don't care about, rotated would also work). Place the unit on the edge of the counter, up-side pointing up, in a way so the bottom end of the axle could fall free when you drive it out. Gently tap the axle through the unit, using the helper tool when the axle is within the sleeve. It will drive completely out.
7. Clean everything. I simply scrubbed the axle and took a small brush to the inside of the sleeve. This doen't need to be perfect, but anything left on either surface may ultimately impair the functioning of the axle.
8. Lubricate the axle with household oil or a dab of grease. You will find that the axle will now slide into the sleeve fairly easily (I had the best luck from the top.)
9. Reattach the base gear, then the top in the obvious order. Everything should spin freely from this point on.
REMEMBER: always use the hotpad whenever you grip the blades and to tighten the bolt on top so that the axle protrudes slightly above the nut.
Good luck!