HI. Your assessment is correct. The inlet assembly should be inspected for damage. Follow the procedure below to correct this issue.
The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.
Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.
If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.
There are two wires connected to each solenoid on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals ( Be sure to not pull the wires). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
More than likely it is your cold,
the warm warm could be the tip off
try a cold water wash
this particular model the timer is what controls
the mixer valve
If i am reading it correctly, the cold is not working, even on a cold wash cold rinse,
where the water comes in is called the mixing valve.
there should be two coils, cold and hot,,,,
if you have voltage to the valve coil, do you have resistance or continuity
it sounds like cold is not opening,,,
and yes if cold does not work properly it will cause the conditions you speak of.....
try to ohm out the solonoid on the water valve,
you should read cointinuity......
if thats not true the coil is your problem,,, you can have voltage there , but if the coils is burnt, they usually burn open,,,,
pull the machine out take out the 16 screws in the back panal,
on the bottom to the left you should see a control board
inspect that board for burnning and or a bad fuse
just had a hunch
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does not Pump or Spin then checkout this tip... not draining and or not spinning63 views
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As we said - it appeared to be the cold water rinse but it also stalls during the warm water rinse. We just replaced the timer and it wasn't that part. Any other ideas?
Part 2 comment - sorry Milten I hit send too early. The cold doesn't work even to start a wash but it appears that when it gets to rinse cycle, it doesn't matter whether it's on cold or warm rinse. Does that have to do with the ability for that water 'mixer' thing in the back of the machine not working properly? What is the name of that part? We tested and it has power to that part. Water appears to be coming in from the back.
Thanks
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