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I had a 12 v battery drain, then noticed my 200 Watt amp, the red light was on and stayed on when the car was shut off. Is it the Amp that is bad or a short?
If the amp goes off when the remote wire is disconnected what would that mean?If the amp goes off when the remote wire is disconnected what would that mean?
...and if it stays on when disconnected does it mean a bad mosfet in the AMP?...and if it stays on when disconnected does it mean a bad mosfet in the AMP?
Pulled the radio and I checked the source of the radio connection.
The blue wire had been attached to the 12V constant.
The blue remote wire is now spliced to the red wire in the radio harness.
I re-attached the battery cables and power cable.
The Amplifier does go off now when I shut the car off.
The Amplifier however is not working and the red protection light stays on.
Looks like my Amplifier is bad?Pulled the radio and I checked the source of the radio connection.
The blue wire had been attached to the 12V constant.
The blue remote wire is now spliced to the red wire in the radio harness.
I re-attached the battery cables and power cable.
The Amplifier does go off now when I shut the car off.
The Amplifier however is not working and the red protection light stays on.
Looks like my Amplifier is bad?
The blue wire from the head unit is NOT connected to the red ignition wire. The "blue wire from the Amp remote" which is powering the remote turn on of the Amp is attached to the red ignition wire of the head unit.
Is that ok?
Thanks for the help,
GregThe blue wire from the head unit is NOT connected to the red ignition wire. The "blue wire from the Amp remote" which is powering the remote turn on of the Amp is attached to the red ignition wire of the head unit.
When I have the wire that's going to the amp remote turn on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit (12 V constant) the AMP stays on all the time. When I switched it to the red wire the amp goes offWhen I have the wire that's going to the amp remote turn on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit (12 V constant) the AMP stays on all the time. When I switched it to the red wire the amp goes off
The red wire is the head unit "ignition" so when I turn off the car the AMP should then be off? correct?? there should be no battery drain from the AMP???The red wire is the head unit "ignition" so when I turn off the car the AMP should then be off? correct?? there should be no battery drain from the AMP???
Do I need to place an in-line fuse someplace when having the remote turn on amp wire connected to the red wire of the head unit so i have my radio protected?Do I need to place an in-line fuse someplace when having the remote turn on amp wire connected to the red wire of the head unit so i have my radio protected?
AnonymousNov 03, 2008
not to sure all we know is that the amp is draining battery when truck is off and will not power when ignition on. fuses all good battery is new . please help
not to sure all we know is that the amp is draining battery when truck is off and will not power when ignition on. fuses all good battery is new . please help
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It would mean that the source feeding the wire isn't switching off as it should.It would mean that the source feeding the wire isn't switching off as it should.
It could mean that there is a defective transistor but it's not likely to be an FET (mosfet).It could mean that there is a defective transistor but it's not likely to be an FET (mosfet).
Disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
The blue wire from the head unit is the wire that's used to power the remote turn-on terminal of the amp. It should not be connected to the red ignition wire. If the blue wire from the head unit is burned out, you can use the red wire to power the remote turn-on wire of the amp.
If you're new to car audio, you should read through the following site.
BCAE1.COMDisconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
The blue wire from the head unit is the wire that's used to power the remote turn-on terminal of the amp. It should not be connected to the red ignition wire. If the blue wire from the head unit is burned out, you can use the red wire to power the remote turn-on wire of the amp.
If you're new to car audio, you should read through the following site.
Why don't you have the wire that's going to the amp's remote turn-on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit instead of the red wire of the head unit. As you have it now, the amp will not go off if you turn the head unit off.Why don't you have the wire that's going to the amp's remote turn-on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit instead of the red wire of the head unit. As you have it now, the amp will not go off if you turn the head unit off.
In that case, the circuit feeding the blue wire of the head unit is defective.
Having the remote turn-on of the amp connected to the red wire of the head unit is acceptable.In that case, the circuit feeding the blue wire of the head unit is defective.
Having the remote turn-on of the amp connected to the red wire of the head unit is acceptable.
Using the ignition wire to control the amp will cause the amp to switch off when the ignition is off. There will be no drain unless the amplifier has a defect that's causing it to draw current when it's off.Using the ignition wire to control the amp will cause the amp to switch off when the ignition is off. There will be no drain unless the amplifier has a defect that's causing it to draw current when it's off.
The red wire feeds the radio. It's not an output from the head unit. There should be a 1 amp (or 1/2 amp) fuse where the remote turn on wire (going to the amp) taps off of the red wire. The red wire feeds the radio. It's not an output from the head unit. There should be a 1 amp (or 1/2 amp) fuse where the remote turn on wire (going to the amp) taps off of the red wire.
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HAS THE ALTERNATOR BEEN TESTED ? WITH THE MOTOR RUNNING, THE VOLTAGE READING SHOULD BE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 13.60 & 14.80. IF THAT SEEMS O.K. WITH EVERYTHING IN THE CAR IN THE OFF POSITION, ALL THINGS UNPLUGGED FROM CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKETS, ALL DOOR, TRUNK SHUT, & IF THERE IS AN UNDERHOOD LIGHT UNPLUG IT OR REMOVE THE BULB. TAKE OFF THE NEGATIVE CABLE FROM THE BATTERY CONNECT A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, ONE END TO THE NEG POST OF THE BATTERY, & THE OTHER END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO THE CABLE YOU JUST REMOVED. IF THE TEST LIGHT IS LIT, THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. UNPLUG ONE AT A TIME, ALL RELAYS & THE ALTERNATOR, TO ISOLATE THE DRAIN.
You might have something draining it, as an example...glove box light, under the hood light, trunk light may be staying on.
Any shop can verify a draw with a meter or amp meter.
your drawing/pulling too many amps. Is it a mono(one speaker), two way(two speakers/can be briged to one), or a four way(four speakers/can be brigrd to two). don't put too many speaker to that one amp if it's only a mono, or a two way.
Is the problem much more noticeable when the car is at idle? Double check that Alternator output. 70 amps is not high output, and if the problem is especially noticeable at idle, it's probably due to the alternator putting out lower voltage( a common thing with alternators). Also, with that much draw from your sub amp, the wire from battery to alternator should be beefed up, as well as the ground wire from battery. You can make up your own cables by purchasing the wire to length and wire lugs at a local Welding shop, 4 gauge from alternator to battery is good. High output aftermarket Alternators shoot into the 200 amp range.
this is usually a problem with incorrect cabling you should check and see that all your cables are connected properly especially the ground cable thats what would normally give you a red light on your amp
never ask geeksquad about amps lol check your ground wire connection and push on sub do you feel scratching if so its blown sub also never turn an amp up all the way it starts pushin dc voltage witch a 200 watt amp can blow a 800 watt sub dc voltage is not good for subs also up all the way can burn out the internal battery in the amp lets hope thats not it just make sure ground is good protection light means that the amp has power but a connection is not bien made sum where to complete the circut
Start removing wires from the amp, one by one (except for the +12V, Ground, and remote) until the amp seems to work fine. Usually, this type of issue is due to a speaker wire shorting to something it shouldn't be touching. Check the "non-amp" end of all the wiring to make sure they are solid and correct.
you need a # 4 gauge wire.
check the subs conection no less than 1 ohm.
check ground.
and if the cap is good.
13.8 volts are for max ouput ......this is 1 ohm of charge at 13.8 volts they give 2500 watts butt only at 13.8 volts whit this relation.
i¨n think you need other alternator.
good look.
Almost all after market amps use 12v at very very low amperage to trigger the amp on. A temporary jumper from the battery plus terminal on the amp AFTER the battery and ground wires are attached should cause the amp to turn on. I would check to see if you have attached your speaker load correctly ESPECIALLY if you are bridging. Most of the blown amps that come into my shop are due to incorrect bridging loads from the speakers. Note that a 4ohm load bridged across both outputs of an amp will deliver a 2ohm load to each of the channels. When you parallel wire two 4ohm speakers together and then attached them to a bridged amp you will be putting a 1 (one) ohm load to each channel of the amp. Please don't make this mistake. It will fry your amp in about a month. Hope this helps. Good luck.
If the amp goes off when the remote wire is disconnected what would that mean?
...and if it stays on when disconnected does it mean a bad mosfet in the AMP?
Pulled the radio and I checked the source of the radio connection.
The blue wire had been attached to the 12V constant.
The blue remote wire is now spliced to the red wire in the radio harness.
I re-attached the battery cables and power cable.
The Amplifier does go off now when I shut the car off.
The Amplifier however is not working and the red protection light stays on.
Looks like my Amplifier is bad?
The blue wire from the head unit is NOT connected to the red ignition wire. The "blue wire from the Amp remote" which is powering the remote turn on of the Amp is attached to the red ignition wire of the head unit.
Is that ok?
Thanks for the help,
Greg
When I have the wire that's going to the amp remote turn on terminal connected to the blue wire of the head unit (12 V constant) the AMP stays on all the time. When I switched it to the red wire the amp goes off
The red wire is the head unit "ignition" so when I turn off the car the AMP should then be off? correct?? there should be no battery drain from the AMP???
Do I need to place an in-line fuse someplace when having the remote turn on amp wire connected to the red wire of the head unit so i have my radio protected?
not to sure all we know is that the amp is draining battery when truck is off and will not power when ignition on. fuses all good battery is new . please help
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