Question about Refrigerators

3 Answers

Doors hard to open

This is a new unit. At the store, the (empty) floor model refrigerator doors were not hard to open. Our unit takes a gorilla grip to open. I can see the stress this is putting on our plastic door handles. This is not right. What can I adjust? Is this a service call?

Posted by on

  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Feb 06, 2008

    I have the same problem. Our fridge is whirlpool gold. it is almost three years old, and lately i am having problems when i open it. i feel like somebody put crazy glue or something.

    what can i do

  • Anonymous Apr 14, 2008

    Brand new from the store, my refrigerator door almost needs a pry bar to open it and it remains that way. It is especially difficult right after closing it. The gasket sticks to the cabinet and visibly stretches before the door finally opens. It acts like the stretching gasket causes a suction on the inside. My wife and I both get plenty of muscle therapy from that refrigerator, but this problem is a pain in the lower regions. We tried a little plastic buggy bumper under the gasket. It worked, but it caused cold air to leak - thus sacrificing efficiency.

  • lordstafford Nov 10, 2008

    Same issue with Kenmore bottom freezer...I'm a young strong guy, and I have to put one hand on the handle and one hand on the fridge and pry them apart. (NO, there is nothing "sticky"...it was like this new).



    I have read that they have been adding magnets within the rubber seals to ensure a tight fit. That explains why when it gets within an inch or two of closing it sucks itself shut. What a pain. Totally unnecessary...this fridge is not going into space and does not need to be 100% vacuum sealed. I would gladly give up a few % of efficiency to not have to fight with this danged thing (and look like an idiot to my friends) every time I try to open it!!!!



    I don't need magnets to make sure I remember to close the door. Ours is so strong, that we can't put anything on top of it because when we open it, the entire applicance rocks. (Of course, floor models at the store don't have these magnets). And my mother in her 70s can't hardly open it without help or putting her entire body into yanking it open.



    Why can't they go back to making them with a handle/catch? Yes, I know some stupid people put them in their yards and kids got locked inside, but at what point do the rest of society have to keep suffering because of stupid people? They didn't take latching doors out of cars, which kill many more people. And more kids drown in bathtubs...we should alter them with a huge drain that won't allow a deep enough puddle for anyone to drown.



    Oh, and mold them with a bumpy diamond-plate non-skid (that is impossible to clean) so no one can slip. At some point, people have to take responsibility for themselves. In the meantime, I have to pull on my Kenmore so hard that it may tip over on me...THEN I will have a lawsuit!

  • Joe Goodof
    Joe Goodof Apr 30, 2014

    "It works!"small piece of drinking straw... taped to door seal..

×

Ad

3 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

My husband, an engineer, fixed this problem after a service visit did nothing to fix the hard to open door problem. He duct taped a small section of a straw (about 4 inches) to the inside top of the door frame so that one end of the straw was inside of the fridge and the other end was on the outside. It doesn't even show. Voila! Pressure released and it's worked great ever since!!

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

Ad
  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    New Friend:

    An expert that has 1 follower.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I just talked with a refrigerator repair man. He said the super suction was a problem for 2006 to 2009 models which tried to be super energy efficient. He gets a lot of complaints. Anyway he echoed the straw advice above, except he advised taping a coin on the seal. I like the straw idea better. I will see if it works.

Posted on Aug 24, 2011

  • Martini131 Aug 24, 2011


    It has NOTHING to do with hinges or magnets. I just talked with a refrigerator repair man. He said the "super suction" was a problem for 2006 to 2009 models which tried to be super energy efficient. He gets a lot of complaints. Anyway he echoed the straw advice above, except he advised taping a coin on the seal. I like the straw idea better. I will see if it works.

  • Martini131 Aug 24, 2011

    sorry for the double post

×

Ad
  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 796 Answers

This type of problem do occur in batch production of electronic items......this is production fault,the door hinges may be not properly fitted.,,,call for the service operator within service period,,if possible get the piece changed

Posted on Jan 03, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Fridege drain pipe block


There are two likely sources for water build up in refrigerators.
  1. Most likely the defrost drain tube is either frozen over or plugged
  2. The ice maker or water dispenser have developed a leak.
Check the ice maker water dispenser first. Close off the water feed to the unit at the wall water hose connection. Protect the floor before rolling the machine out into the kitchen. A loaded refrigerator will score the kitchen from the weight of the wheels rolling across the flooring material.

Observe for a day or two if the water has stopped? If it has than repair of the ice maker or dispenser hose is required,

If not than more specific information model and make is required, The link shows how one individual has taken some initiative to analyze and correct this problem. If the defrost tube is blocked than disassemble to access the drain tube is required. Many of the designs have the drain tube internal not as the video shows an external tube. If it is "just frozen over" not plugged, than allowing the unit to defrost by emptying it out and with the doors open allow for the ice to melt. It will take some time for the tube to defrost. By pulling the front vent guard you can usually observe the tray where the drain empties into. If the tube has been frozen and opens the water should be seen dripping into the tray. I would try allowing for the unit to defrost the drain tube allowing for normal operation to return. If it happens again and again then adjustment to the drain tube or cleaning is required.

Unclogging Frost Free Refrigerator Condensate Drain

Jan 07, 2016 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer has fuzzy ice, refrigerator not cooling at all


hi,
Sound like a you have a door seal problem, if you get warm air in a freezer for too long will cause the air to crystalize and look like someone took a snow blower and blow it inside. Simple repair is to empty unit a unplug unit to thaw completely, but this could take 24 hours or so to do this. and towels inside unit to prevent leaking on to the floor. Either way you need to remove the frost so the unit will start working again.
After clearing the ice out, you will restore air flow inside the unit and things should return to normal, also check door seal to assure complete seal is made to prevent this in the future..
Good luck, be-careful it can contain all lot of water, for water the floor.....

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Jul 21, 2011 | Amana ABB2223DES Stainless Steel Bottom...

1 Answer

There seems to be a drip pan under the fridge, it is full of water, however i can not figure out how to get it out to empty it.It is overflowing an leaking onto the floor. What do you suggest?


If you have an automatic ice maker, turn off the water valve so no more water goes to the refrigerator.

If you don't have a water line to the refrigerator, the water is coming from all the humidity inside he unit. Normally, the pan is large enough so the humidity pumped out of the unit (as water) has time to evaporate and you never have to empty it.

For now, get a large terry-cloth towel and put it on the edge of the pan, the water will wick into the towel over time. You can also try a turkey baster to **** the water out like a syringe.

A few things cause excessive humidity in the unit.

1) Make sure the door is closed and you have no damaged seals all the way around the unit (check hinge side of door(s).

2) Do not leave open containers of liquid in the fridge.

3) Do not leave door on fridge open very long.

May 06, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My fridge/freezer is no longer getting cold. I came home one night and everything was thawed out with water all over the floor. At first I thought that the door was left open but it just kept getting...


A defrost system problem could be preventing the refrigerator from cooling properly. If you do see excessive frost on the evaporator in the freezer, you may be able to restore proper cooling in the refrigerator by storing your food in an ice chest and then shutting off the refrigerator/freezer and letting the unit completely defrost for about 24 hours. Leave the doors open for air circulation. After the frost on the evaporator has defrosted, plug the unit back in and see if the refrigerator and freezer will cool properly.
If there is still same problem then you need to replace evaporator fan.

Hope this helps.
Please feel free to ask us, if you have any further queries.
Shane

Mar 10, 2011 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Hi, Our church has a brand new all refrigerator unit. The door suction is REALLY strong so that you have to put one hand on the frame to pull the door open. This tends to move the unit since it is so...


Check to see if you have "feet" on the front side of the fridge. these feet, if present, can be unscrewed which lowers them to prevent the appliance from moving. Do not, and I mean do not do anything that would seem to make the doors open easier, or to loosen them, as this will most definitely affect its cooling performance.

If there are no balancing feet, I would go to the hardware store, and get a couple of floor protectors, like for putting underneath the couch to protect the carpeting.

Dec 10, 2010 | Frigidaire Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer is cold, but fridge isn't cooling, cleaned the coils underneath and the port between the freezer and fridge is clear of ice


Hello,

All of the cooling in refrigerators is normally done in the freezer compartment. A fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment to cool it. Most likely this fan has quit working.
Also note that,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. mostly, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since the unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.Hope this helpout , Good luck

Aug 02, 2010 | KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS...

2 Answers

My top freezer works but the refrigerator is not cooling


Hello,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. On most Kenmores, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since y ou mentioned the water accumulation, more water recently, my diagnosis would be the former versus the latter, as the lack of actual defrosting coincides with lack of defrost water, however I'll never say never.

If your unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.


Hope this helpout

Aug 01, 2010 | Kenmore 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

2 Answers

My LG LRFC25750WW refrigerator collects water in the bottom of the freezer (bottom freezer) that freezes, then leaks over the floor.


This is a known problem. There is a drain that allows condensation to escape to the bottom of the unit where it will evaporate. Ice accumulates in the drain causing it to clog and the moisture drains to the freezer bottom.
The solution is to empty the unit and defrost it for 24-36 hours. The ice in the drain will melt allowing the unit to work as it was designed. To avoid future problems make sure the doors are always kept shut. Ours clogged after our son left the refrigerator door open on day.

Jul 15, 2010 | LG LRFD25850 French Door Refrigerator

1 Answer

Swap door sides on hotpoint future RLA30 fridge?


tip unit over on side,placing an old blanket or similar on floor under unit.there are 3 little bolt/screws holding each bracket to the underside of unit,unscrew these/lay brackets on floor, slide door down off pin on underside of top.and unscrew this pin.change over from right to left replace door onto pin replace bottom hingepin,adjust door for" squareness " and tighten all screws lift back upright and switch on...will take a little time to settle down temp wise.... make sure seal sits tight all round good luck ..geoff

Feb 19, 2010 | Hotpoint RLA30 Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refrigerator and freezer not cooling/freeding


Possibly a defrost circuit problem -

1) Bad defrost thermostat
2) Bad defrost heater
3) Bad defrost timer
4) Failed evaporator fan motor.

Look for frost accumulated inside the louvers at the back panel, top and bottom. If you see it, remove food from freezer and put in ice chest. Take out shelves, get hair dryer and warm the backside of the freezer, directing air down the louvers. Then leave to sit for 4-6 hours with the freezer door open. Put towels in the bottom of the freezer to catch any melted ice.
After period of time, plug unit back in and power the unit back up. Once you know it's cooling, empty ice chests back into freezer.

If there is a problem in any of the above components, then it will show up in 3-4 weeks witht he same problem again.

Jan 29, 2009 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

6,695 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4656 Answers

Marvin
Marvin

Level 3 Expert

85206 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

18110 Answers

Are you a Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...