- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Make it a habit to defrost it every week. You see, when ice forms around the evaporator tubes (which runs around the walls of fridge and freezer), heat exchange reduces (that means heat is no longer absorbed from the things inside the refrigerator) and cooling stops. See whether freezer walls or fridge walls are damaged. Do not use knives or any other sharp tools to remove ice. Do not forcefully remove items that are difficult to take out from the freezer. Defrost and remove them.
Your defrost drain hole is clogged. Look for the drain hole in the bottom rear of the freezer section. Turn off the fridge. Heat the drain hole with a hair dryer and clear the ice. Pour a quarter cup of bleach into the hole.
if the freezer is cold and the fridge is not then it can be several things. The freezer could have a bunrt out defrost heater, defrost timer faulty, fan not working in the freezer??. all of these things will stop your fridge getting cold, but your freezer will still be around minus 9 deg c. you wont get any air into the fridge as the coil in the freezer is prob all iced over. Dont worry about the heat on the door frame as it is only the anti sweat heater
There is a duct between the freezer and refrigerator. Sometimes this duct blocks off with ice and won't allow airflow. Open your refrigerator door and check for air flow if there is none the duct needs to be defrosted. turn off freezer/ refrigerator and defrost.
Yes, boards may need replacing, but not at the expense of the door, apparantly your "engineer" would rather work on older models that may require a hammer. Best advice would be given knowing the make and model number of your unit. A professional should be able to diagnose the board processes as well as the compressor in a short amount of time. Check the defrost heater (after pwr is restored to unit) for the freezer side (placement depending upon model) for continuity (basically a heating element for the evaporator coils - which will freeze without defrost). Proper defrost will help lessen the load on the compressor. Check the overload relay on the compressor itself for failure and replacement of relay. Have the unit defrosted, svc defrost htr, thermostats/thermolinks , compressor, before checking computer board operations.
Check the vents of your fridge side if present, if no air then may be your blower not working or some ice formation that blocks the air(try defrosting). Check also your vents for obstruction or overloaded with stocks.
check that the correct thermostat is installed and that the element wire is connected.check door rubber and door hinges.check if it has independant defrost timmers and if it is working.oh and see if the element is drawing current if fitted with one.