Roper mod REX4634KQ1- Location of BOTH thermal fuses.

Your dryer very likely wont start due to a bad Thermal Fuse. This video I have attached shows how to replace the thermal fuse. I know the video says Whirlpool dryer, Whirlpool is the maker of the Roper brand and it should be exactly as shown in the video. The video shows using a jumper wire to bypass the thermal fuse if you have such a jumper wire it is effective to check if the fuse is the problem,if not just temporarily connect the 2 blue wires together and test if the dryer starts. BE ABSOLUTLY SURE BEFORE EITHER USINGA JUMPER WIRE OF CONNECTING THE BLUE WIRES TOGETHER ***DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE DRYER*** USE JUMPER,OR CONNECT WIRING THEN RECONNECT POWER TO DRYER so it may be tested to see if the dryer starts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi9wEXNCnJk

I base my diagnosis on my 30 plus years as a appliance service technician.

Thanks,Gene

There are two thermostats that need to be checked for continuity, the thermal cut off and the hi-limit". If found to be bad, they need to be replaced. Here is the kit you need.Here is a video to show you how to check them.

depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals

This usually caused by a blown thermal fuse on the blower housing located behind the rear access panel. This thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and if it blows, power to the motor is terminated and the motor cannot run. No dryer function works when the motor cannot run.

Unplug the dryer or disconnect power then remove the rear access panel. Locate the thermal fuse then bypass it for troubleshooting purposes.



Bypass the thermal fuse by disconnecting the wires and joining it together. Insulate properly and plug the dryer back in. The thermal fuse is indeed blown and needs to be replaced if the dryer starts. Do not use the dryer with the thermal fuse bypassed due to fire hazards.

Clean the lint filter and make sure the vent system is not restricted then replace the thermal fuse including the cycling thermostat (thermistor for other models) as a standard operating procedure and preventive measure. The thermal fuse usually cuts out due to a failed cycling thermostat(thermistor for other models).

This is very likely due to the thermal fuse being blow open as a result of a failed thermistor and/or clogged lint screen or restricted vent system. The thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and cuts power to the latter when the former has blown. No dryer function works when the motor cannot run.

Disconnect power then clean the lint screen and the vent system if necessary. Remove the rear panel to access and replace the thermal fuse and the thermistor on the blower housing. Click on the link below for the troubleshooting and repair details.

Kenmore and Whirlpool Dryers Not Starting

The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You need a thermal fuse and or heater element, both very simple and affordable to replace. Try replacing the thermal fuse first to see if that's the problem. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. If this don't solve your problem you will need to replace the heater element. To replace the heater element, with the back cover off of your dryer just look down and to the right of were the air blows out. You will see the electric heating unit with two fat red wires plugged into it. Unplug these wires and you will see on the sheetmetal housing two screws that hold it on, one on each side. On older elctric dryers there is only one screw that holds element in place, it is on the bottom center of element screwed in from behind. Remove screw(s) and remove old heater element. Now, lay the new element next to the old one and take notice that there is a heat sensor attached to the old element where one of the red wires unplugged from. Gently remove this sensor and install it onto the new element in the same location as the old one. If you have an older electric dryer, the old heater element doesn't have the heat sensor on it, just skip this step. Now, plug in your two red wires and re-install your heater element. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a thermal fuse and or gas valve coils, and maybe an igniter all three are very simple and affordable to replace. To replace the thermal fuse just remove back cover of dryer and look down where the air blows out. Now, just to the left where all the wires are you will see a white plastic part with two wires plugged into it. This part is called a thermal fuse. Just remove these wires and replace the thermal fuse. Now, if this don't solve the problem you will need a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new, if it doesn't then you will need to check the igniter. The igniter is attached to the end of the burner assymbly by one screw and a simple two wire plug. Inspect for breakage, and replace if needed. Happy to help, Tim.

Put the back panel back, and hope you havent done permanent damage
the back does not come off roper dryers for service
the front does
the back panel serves solely as a mounting point for important fixtures
there is no reset button
there are thermal fuses, if the thermal fuse, mounted on the exhaust duct or fan housing has failed, it must be replaced, but they are not expensive
look like this to access the dryer mechanism

unplug dryer
remove lint filter
remove 2 screws under lint filter
with putty knife or other blunt blade, depress spring catches at front corners of top cover
raise front cover
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/3 from top
remove door switch wires
remove front panel set aside
test all thermostats heater and thermal fuse with ohmmeter, remove 1 wire test for conduct replace wire, no conduct replace
the local parts store will have the part, labelled whirlpool, ~$14 for thermal fuse, ~$40 if heater

examine rear panel reinstall any thing that is dismounted
while the dryer is open
Clean the lint out of fan, fan housing, ducts
airflow blockage is the 99% cause of thermal fuse blowing, some lint always gets past the lint screen

go back to timer ck continuity with timer in any run postion from black to blue wire (i think..better ck wiring diagram under console..you're looking for the contacts in timer to make that control motor)