Dust cover came off of cone on a older JL W3.now it blows alot of air.

You're gonna need .5 cubic ft minimum

JL has good customer service, and usually you can get a drop-in replacement core/coil/former/spider. Call/e-mail the techsupport listed on their website, or contact your local dealer for replacement parts/service.

Id say take it back to where ever you bought it from and get an exchange. Have them test it there and see if it works. I have a JL W6 and have had JL's for a long time.To hear of something like this with a new JL is very rare. Just may be some kind of defect. Bring it back, get it tested and go from there.

try your local JL audio dealer, sure it's in your yellow pages

Try this....the speaker that is not working, gently work the cone up and down with you fingers. Be careful not to go right thru the cone. One hand underneath(near webbing) and one hand on top over the dust cover. If you hear any kind of scratching, or noise, or it's not "breathing" freely, then the voice coil of that speaker may have overheated, or the speaker has extended above and beyond its range of movement (called excursion). And may as well be blown/dead/fried..however you want to say. I hope this is not the case for you.

depends if its 2,4,8 ohm. if its 2or 8 then its 1.250cu.ft. 35.4 liters if its 4ohm 1.125cu.ft 31.8 liters.if u need more help feel free to email me at [email protected]

Hello stoge52,

Many people do their own speaker repairs and it is many times perfectly satisfactory. The folks who do a lot of it are musicians who seem to bang their equipment around quite frequently.

The problem with your JL sounds like the dust cover and not the cone itself, so you are lucky in that respect. Repairing the cone is more involved and it's rather tricky to duplicate the thickness, rigidity, and original elasticity of the cone. It's usually best to simply replace the cone, a process called "reconing". But gluing the dust cover is perfectly acceptable and not much of a job at all. Don't try super glue. It won't work. I'm not sure about rubber cement, though, but I've never heard of anyone using it. Many pros use silicone sealant. Either black or clear looks best for speaker repair. A somewhat better product is a tennis shoe repair product called "Shoe Goo". It's a little lighter and remains more pliable than silicone sealant, making it a better choice for lighter speakers. You can usually find "Shoe Goo" at larger sporting goods stores. If you want to use something that is made especially for gluing speakers, here's a link to a product called "Prosound Loudspeaker Recone Adhesive" and is advertised as the same black adhesive as that used by many major speaker manufacturers. It's $19.99 for 8 fl oz, more expensive than silicone sealant. Is it better? I don't know. But if it were MY JL, I'd probably spring for it.

http://www.prosoundservice.com/m9_view_item.html?m9:item=PROSND-RECONEGLUE8OZ

You may want to gently remove the dust cover entirely from the speaker and make sure that there are not any tears in the cone itself. If there are, you should repair them first.

Also, when you reglue the dust cover, wait a MINIMUM of 24 hours for the glue/sealant to set up and cure properly. If you start the sub thumping before the glue has fully cured, you'll have the same problem again. One other thing, use just enough glue/sealant to do the job. Don't think that more is better. A consistent thin layer on the entire surfaces being joined is best. A gob here and there will not hold for very long.

The alternative is to send it out for repair. And since it is a JL, I would not send it anywhere but JL. Be advised that is not going to be cheap. And it's going to be time consuming. Probably at least 25-50% of the cost of a new sub and probably a minimum of 3-4 weeks, sometimes longer. And don't forget, you'll pay shipping both ways.

Hope this helps.

Hi their the best link ever to wire up subs is this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-s8dIAxJtgx2/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

wire the sub in series it will give you best bang

Take an OHM meter and measure the resistance on both the positive and negitive leads. It should read 2, 4, or 6 OHMS. This depends on the model either a D2, D4, or D6. If you read that reading correctly then see if there is a capacitor located on the the cone itself or in that area. If it is not visible then that would mean that it is located inside of the magnent area.