Ice maker will only cycle once then it goes to off position . It stop working due to ice build up in supply tube. I removed the ice maker and ran hot water over unit to clear out the ice that was lodged in it. When I re installed it now it seems as if it is out of cycle. I pull the bar down but it gose back to off position once ice falls.

On Hoshi ice maker, if coils are HOT, it is passing hot gas from compressor into the lines. After the defrost of the first cycle, after this cubes are completely cleared from the plates, the "Hot Gas Valve" should close and the freeze cycle should start over. It sounds that the valve is sticking open and not stopping the hot gas from entering. Look there first.

Good day,
First off the freezer must must be at 10 degrees or lower. The ice-maker will lock out automatically at any temperature above 12 degrees.
Follow the steps. It will get you there.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Why not do a quick thaw and move the frozen goods over to the firdge for a few minutes and grab a blow dryer. This should give a temporary fix until you can pin point the problem. Be kind to me please with a Thumbs up. I am a long ways away and can only help a little. Raz

Check the ice maker to see if there are ice cubes in the ice maker. If so, there is a problem with the ice maker heater and / or motor. You may be able to rebuild the ice maker by replacing defective parts, but it might be easier to replace it as a whole unit instead. If there is no ice present, it is likely a problem with the ice maker water lines / solenoid.

There are usually two solenoid valves and tubing systems for these types of fridges. One actuates on demand for water whenever requested, and the other operates automatically to make ice cubes until the ice cube reservoir is full.

Carefully push/pull the fridge away from the wall.

Unplug the fridge from the outlet.

Shut off the water supply to the fridge.

Remove access cover (usually the on the bottom) from the back of the fridge. Follow the tube that comes from the top of the fridge (for the ice maker) down to the bottom of the fridge.

Inspect visually for sources of the leak on tubing and related parts. Carefully check by hand for leaks in areas not readily visible - including the back sides of all the tubing, too. There may be sharp edges that can cut if not paying attention. If a leak is found where the tubing connects to other parts, you may be able to simply remove the tube and cut it back an inch or so if there is enough slack.

It may require that some special fittings and parts be obtained to reconnect and some compression type parts are designed for single use. If this is the case, gather the parts and bring them to a local hardware store for assistance obtaining replacements.

If a solenoid valve is found to be the culprit, due to a crack, etc. a trip to an appliance parts store will be required - unless able to purchase online. Part prices can vary widely , depending on the source.

Once replacement parts have been secured, reconnect after disconnecting power & water supply lines. When satisfied with the installation, reconnect power and water lines and test.

Carefully slide the fridge back into position - taking care to not crush the power or water lines.

Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help

usually yes if no water to icemaker could be water valve solenoid. . first you can remove cover on icemaker and put the unit thru a test mode. find the plastic or medal cam in center of icemaker head when cover is removed., theis is a flateblade screw center get a small screwdriver and turn screw counterclockwise for about a 1/4 of a turn , icemaker will start cycling if icemaker ok then it will go througha cycle let it do its thing usually a few minutes for it to cycle, if fills you may have a bad icemaker, if no fill then valve may be bad. make sure you have good water pressure from your water supply that can cause icemaker problems.

Older icemakers have a bar that drops from above your ice bin; once the bin is full the bar is raised and trips turning the ice maker off so that it won't dump. If your's is this style, try manually pushing the free end of the bar upward so that it locks in the upward position. Newer ice makers with the ice bin in the door have a small panel that moves to the open position when the door opens and closes when the door closes. Mine also includes an optical sensor that is visible when this panel is in the closed position. Try placing a non-clear tape over the optical sensor (don't know if that will work or not but worth a shot). If effective in stopping the ice flow then call a repairman. If none of this works, turn off the water supply coming out of the wall to your freezer.

Sounds like you may have a couple of problems here. The frost build up could be from a bad door seal. Moist air can be drawn in and collect on the inside. As for the water temp, it sounds like the water line connected to the refrigerator could be tapped off a hot water line. It needs to be connected to a potible cold water line.

Water frozen in the freezer supply line - you need to thaw out the freezer. About six hours, door open, turn freezer OFF. You'll need a cooler with dry ice for your frozen food. 99% certain it'll work after that.

you may have a frozen inlet tube coming in to the ice maker. This is caused from a bad water valve and you would need to replace the water valve.